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42" TSLs + 2 1/2" lift + crossover and lots of cutting

84CUCV

84CUCV

3/4 ton status
Joined
Jul 1, 2002
Posts
7,150
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Location
NJ for now
I have been thinking about it. this is what i want to do. i know that it has been done before. all i need now is the lift springs. got my high steer and all that ready to go. so, what i am looking for is some ideas how you guys did it. what you would have done if you could do it again. that kinda thing. thanks
 
84CUCV said:
I have been thinking about it. this is what i want to do. i know that it has been done before. all i need now is the lift springs. got my high steer and all that ready to go. so, what i am looking for is some ideas how you guys did it. what you would have done if you could do it again. that kinda thing. thanks
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Youll need a new crossmember, youll have problem with getting everything to clear(crossover) I really doubght youll be able to do highsteer.

Why not at least 4"?
 
It certainly wont be street legal... even with 2 1/2.. Your wheelbase will have to change for sure...
 
OK i was just thinking that 2 1/2 would be good and low. so you think it would fit better with 4" kit? will i still need a crossmember with 4" kit? why would it not be street legel? it a 84 1 ton from pa i am getting fo a good price. Pretty rusty, was just going to cut it all up and fit the tires.
 
yeah why would it not be legal? 84cucv i like your thinking. if you do do a 2.5" let me know and start a build thread. with pics of course. im trying to do a 4" with 39.5 or 42 which ever fit financially.
 
a 4" would make fitting everything easier. you will still probably need a new cross member. I know when I ordered my crossover from ORD they recommended a new cross member for anything less then 6" lift.

it would be easier if you were only doing crossover and not hi-steer. then you could push the axle forward and not worry about the drag link contacting the tie rod. moving the axle forward will help the drag link clear the cross member better and the tires clear the cab, but it creates havoc with hi-steer.


take lots of pics. :D
 
OK guess i will skip the highsteer on this then. what is the best way to push the axle out a bit?
 
zero rates. 52" springs up front, that will give you at least 4" lift. could just move the hangers forward with stock springs.
 
im running 52's and redrilled the perches 1" so my axle is 3.5" forward. add a zero-rate and youll have the axle 5" forward. or you could go with ford 57's which move the axle i think 5" forward by themselves i believe.
 
Yeah you could do 3" front lift springs with a 1" zero rate to move the axle forward 1-1.5". That would keep your lift down where you want it and it's the easiest method for moving the axle forward, IMO.

I would agree with just crossover. Figure hydro assist instead of the high-steer.

Here's my former CUCV with front 2.5" springs and rear 3" springs +3/4" zero-rate. That's B_to_C's 40" MTRs.

DSCF1385.jpg


Much trimming would be needed and you'd be constantly stuffing the tire into the firewall. Moving the axle forward would help some.

After putting Nick's tires on my truck I decided to go to a 4" lift. The shorter lift could be done, but it'd be a real pain, IMO. I think 37s work best with the 2.5" lift range.
 
Not entirely sure but you might be able to move the tierod behind the axle- drill the holes for hiems and put it below the arms instead of above.
 
muddybuddy said:
im running 52's and redrilled the perches 1" so my axle is 3.5" forward. add a zero-rate and youll have the axle 5" forward. or you could go with ford 57's which move the axle i think 5" forward by themselves i believe.
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I dont think this will work. Trucknutzdude tried zero-rates 1" forward and 1.5" forward combined with 52s and his pitman arm was going to hit the u-bolt plate under compression.

Obviously full hydro would eliminate this problem.
 
84CUCV said:
never heard of that before. anyone know about it?
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you can get reverse high steer arms. they will have a spot for the draglink in front of the knuckle and a spot for the tierod behind the axle. hi steer puts a lot of stress on the top of your knuckles. I have seen it snap a stock knuckle in half. everything stops when that happens.

if you did run reverse high steer you would probably have fitment issues will the small lift amount you are trying to run.

stick with having the tierod in the stock location. its free. I wheel my truck really hard with the stock tierod location and hydro assist. 42's will help keep everything up and out of harms way.
 
If you put the tie rod in the reverse highsteer, it will slam your oil pan with super low lift. Cant remember who, but the M1008 with 52's in front with 42's, hes in Nevada. He went to stock tie rod location cause of the oil pan.
 
38" tire is the max you can run on the street in Jersey...

9" TOTAL lift for 1/2 ton.
11" for 3/4
13" for 1 ton
 
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OK thanks guys. good to know. 38s well that rally f-ing sucks. NJ sucks
 
so how hard would it be to so a 2" lift with 42"s. can you not run crossover steering or high steer? do you need to mount the steering box in a different location?
 
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