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454 build. I know, search...

85 Jimmy

85 Jimmy

Sheepdog
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I just picked up a free 454 and tore it down. I noticed that the rods were stamped with the cylinder numbers already, does that mean someone has been in this thing before?

Also, I plan to run the 336781 heads with 2.19"/1.88" valves. That's all I'm really sure on though. Need some suggestions on the cam, intake, and whatever else. I want to get around 500 hp out of this thing.

I just finished putting TPI on my 350 and don't want to lose the fuel injection. What FI options do I have for not retareded money? If I do put a carb on it I'd go duel fuel, so were do y'all mount the propane tank in a blazer?

I've put engines together, but never built them with other than stock parts.

Oh yeah, it's going in my Jimmy with a dana 60 front, 14bff rear, 4.56's, and will have a 700r4 behind it till it blows up.
 
Factory does not stamp them so I would say yes

the big block and small block FI systems are alot different .

For builds I would find something that someone else has done before and just copy it like the whole Edlebrook performer set up or somehting.
 
kgblazerfive said:
the big block and small block FI systems are alot different .
Click to expand...

I know, but now that I have wheeled with FI I don't want to go back to carb...

I don't want to put the TPI on the big block, I just want to know what FI options are out there for it.
 
How much are you wanting to spend on the efi ?
 
factory does stamp big block rods, my machinist said when I asked that same question. My 454 was stock bore when I tore it down, and they were stamped too. My block is an 83 casting.

I would shoot for torque numbers unless you need the rpm for mud, pulling or the like.
I used a solid comp cams flat tappet and engine dyno says about 550 tq. and 450 hp. The torque curve is over 500 at 2000, and still close to 500 at 4500.
I'm using the same heads, with big valves, and about 9.4 compression.
 
76zimmer said:
factory does stamp big block rods, my machinist said when I asked that same question. My 454 was stock bore when I tore it down, and they were stamped too. My block is an 83 casting.

I would shoot for torque numbers unless you need the rpm for mud, pulling or the like.
I used a solid comp cams flat tappet and engine dyno says about 550 tq. and 450 hp. The torque curve is over 500 at 2000, and still close to 500 at 4500.
I'm using the same heads, with big valves, and about 9.4 compression.
Click to expand...

Those numbers are with the dome pistons I saw in your thread, right?

I don't really play in the mud anymore, I do more trail riding.
 
I gotcha. You might call Howell EFI and talk to them about how much camshaft you can run. Maybe try to find a complete OE tbi set up and see how far they can push it. This is what I intend to do I just haven't gotten that far yet.
 
85 Jimmy said:
Those numbers are with the dome pistons I saw in your thread, right?

I don't really play in the mud anymore, I do more trail riding.
Click to expand...

Yes, I was just going to post my thread for you to get some ideas, or maybe something that would help with your decision....we went with SRP's with a small dome and was shooting for 9.0-9.5 to run pump gas with.
I mostly run dunes, or mud, so I didn't want the engine to quit at 4000, and I figure with the 454, and doubler it would have plenty down low anyway.

here is my build....tear down is much earlier in the thread.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=261694&page=9
 
nvrenuf said:
I gotcha. You might call Howell EFI and talk to them about how much camshaft you can run. Maybe try to find a complete OE tbi set up and see how far they can push it. This is what I intend to do I just haven't gotten that far yet.
Click to expand...

I might call them just to find out, the engine will take awhile to build though. I need to finish my dana 60 and get that in, then I go on a 10-11 month deployment, when I get back I'll beat on the old body for awhile, then do a body swap. While the old body is off I'm going to slide the 454 in.

I just want to start collecting parts during this 11 month deployment...
 
Can't say the exact date (don't know it myself) but in the begining of May...
 
What's a reasonable price for 781 heads? I read somewhere here not to pay more than $100?
 
I'd say no more than $150 for a set and they'd better be good. :wink1:

Edit: 049's are virtually the same casting so those are good as well.
 
nvrenuf said:
I'd say no more than $150 for a set and they'd better be good. :wink1:

Edit: 049's are virtually the same casting so those are good as well.
Click to expand...

It depends on supply and demand....in Mi. I'd buy em all day for 100 a pair. In fact that's what I paid for mine....Those and 049's are the best oval castings GM made.
there are lots of drag racers around here that will buy em up as soon as someone puts em up for sale.
 
If you were to buy a set of heads would you worry if they were covered in rust like these?

!BqFs21!!Wk~$(KGrHqEH-D8EuvhH4v!8BLuPkhc3rg~~_12.JPG
 
is that rust pitting into any machined surfaces?

If not it can be cleaned up. Are the valves frozen in the guides?
 
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