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454 build ... need your advice

T

terror396

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I have a 454 from a 87 Suburban with regular peanut port heads that I will build for my K10

my rig is a 1986 K15 that has
14BFF + 10-Bolt ( 3.73 gears )
SM465 + NP205
33" tires
total weight around 5000 lbs

it is used mainly in sand dunes and on the street

this is the combo I am thinking in
and I need your advice to decide on which intake and cam to use

around 9:1 compression
Edelbrock 750 CFM carb or Q-jet
Hooker long tube Headers + dual 2.5" exhaust with Throush mufflers

Heads: stock peanut heads but, does it worth to put larger valves in them ?

Intake:
Performer 2.0
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL%2D2161&autoview=sku

or
Performer RPM ( needs adapter to use Q-jet )
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL-7161&autoview=sku

which one is better in this application ?

and what about Summit branded intakes?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-226022&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-226024&autoview=sku


Cam: I would like it to have nice off-idle and mid range torque + a little rough idle and I won't rev it past 5500 rpm

Lunati voodoo 60202
Duration @ 050 inch Lift: 219 int./227 exh.
Adv. Duration: 262 int./268 exh.
lift: 0.530 int./0.542 exh.
Lobe Separation: 112
RPM: 1,400-5,700
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LUN-60202&autoview=sku

or
comp camp Xtreme Energy 4x4 11-235-3
Duration @ 050 inch Lift: 218 int./226 exh.
Adv. Duration: 262 int./270 exh.
lift: 0.505 int./0.515 exh.
Lobe Separation: 111
RPM: 1,400-5,400
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-11-235-3&autoview=sku

they are very similar but, based on searching in other forums I believe that the Voodoo series have newer designs compared to Comp cams and they make less noise than the comps

also I've read complaints about comp cams with wiped lopes after initial start-up even after following their instructions

so which one do you recommend ?


any input is appreciated
thanks
 
Looks like a nice combination. With the cam durations you are looking at any of the dual plane manifolds would be fine. Honestly the peanut port heads will be problematic in the upper rpm. You might consider getting some standard oval port heads and invest in port matching to intake and an nice pocket port. Stay with standard size valves and don't bother with porting the runners.
 
"781" casting heads then add 2.19/1.88 valves and open up the bowls and get the correct intake manifold and you'll make lots of power. You can ask Burt4x4 about his i built for him.
 
9:1 compression requires domed pistons. I prefer going with forged pistons, the hyperuetectic pistons have been problematic in big blocks that get run hard, they like to break the ring lands. Cast pistons don't have the strength to withstand detonation either, if you're running in the sand you will get the motor hot enough for it to detonate, there's no way around it. Don't skimp on pistons you'll regret it if you do.

The peanut port heads aren't real great and probably not the best choice for a build up. Spend a little more money and get some regular oval port heads and put big valves in those, do a little clean up work while you're at it. It'll be time and money well spent.

If you stay with the peanut port heads run the smaller Comp cam. The higher lift numbers of the Lunati cam will be wasted with poor high lift flow of the peanut port heads. If you step up to regular oval port heads then go with the bigger cam, in fact you can go another 6-8 degrees of duration (keep the lobe centers around 112) and still keep decent idle quality. Make sure you get the matching springs.

The big oval port heads and bigger cam will be worth an easy 40 horse and 40 ft. lbs. with no loss in reliability and only a small increase in budget.
 
thanks for the replies


yes I'll use forged pistons + ARP bolts for the stock rods


but regarding oval Vs peanut ports
it is very hard to find oval port heads here ( I live in Saudi Arabia )
almost all big blocks here are from trucks
except for some mericruiser marine 454s which were used by the coast guard boats. they have GM iron rectangle port heads and they produce around 400 hp in stock form ( rectangle heads + forged everything + crane gold rocker arms .. etc )

so
is it better to stay with peanut ports? or rectangle ports will be better for this application?
and what about Vortec 7.4 heads which came on 96 - 99 trucks ?
 
The vortec heads would be a pretty good option in your case. They flow similarly to an old oval port (the swirly in the intake bowl cuts the flow a little compared to a 781) and have small 100cc combustion chambers that would allow you to use flat top pistons. The down side is they use rotators under all the springs, use 7/16" accessory bolt holes and require a special (forget the number) head gasket to work with a Mark IV block. None of the downs are that big of a deal to figure out, they'd be a lot better choice than the peanut port heads. The rectangular port heads may be a bit much for a heavy pickup.
 
hijack on- Don't know you but......What's with the "terror" part of your screen name & then being from Saudi? Is this in any way coincidence?- hijack off :laugh:
 
bigblock72 said:
The vortec heads would be a pretty good option in your case. They flow similarly to an old oval port (the swirly in the intake bowl cuts the flow a little compared to a 781) and have small 100cc combustion chambers that would allow you to use flat top pistons. The down side is they use rotators under all the springs, use 7/16" accessory bolt holes and require a special (forget the number) head gasket to work with a Mark IV block. None of the downs are that big of a deal to figure out, they'd be a lot better choice than the peanut port heads. The rectangular port heads may be a bit much for a heavy pickup.
Click to expand...

whats the deal with rotators? can't they be just removed since I'll be using the recommended springs with the cam

and I've heard the vortec 7.4 heads were used also on 1995 TBI engines
is that true ?
 
There are rotator eliminator kits that must be used even when using the recommended springs.
 
terror396 said:
Cam: I would like it to have nice off-idle and mid range torque + a little rough idle and I won't rev it past 5500 rpm

Lunati voodoo 60202
Duration @ 050 inch Lift: 219 int./227 exh.
Adv. Duration: 262 int./268 exh.
lift: 0.530 int./0.542 exh.
Lobe Separation: 112
RPM: 1,400-5,700
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LUN-60202&autoview=sku

or
comp camp Xtreme Energy 4x4 11-235-3
Duration @ 050 inch Lift: 218 int./226 exh.
Adv. Duration: 262 int./270 exh.
lift: 0.505 int./0.515 exh.
Lobe Separation: 111
RPM: 1,400-5,400
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-11-235-3&autoview=sku

so which one do you recommend ?

any input is appreciated
thanks
Click to expand...

I think you'd need a calibrated dyno and 2 weeks to tell any difference in the performance of these 2 similar cams.

Buy the cheapest one.... :deal:

BTW, I ran this cam in a 454 for a couple of years:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-K1301&autoview=sku

Hauled ass to 5k rpm. Had a relatively good idle too.

Marv
 
I'll try to find Vortec heads first
but if I don't find any, I will use the stock heads

what are the limits of stock valve train ( springs, pushrods )? can I use them with either cam?
and if I need to buy aftermarket springs, can i use them with stock retainers and locks ?

thanks
 
Just keep in mind that Gen V and VI bbc heads will not work on a Mark IV block without a whloe lot of hassle. There are water jackets that need to be machined and then drilled and tapped and plugged otherwise you end up with coolant in the lifter valley. If you don't believe me then pick up a GM performance book and start reading all about that in their description about the heads.

Also the Gen V and VI no longer use 7/16" screw in rocker studs with an adjustable valve but rather a smaller 3/8" bolt that is non adjustable in stock form.

Depending on the spring diameter determines if you can use stock retainers or not. If i was changing springs to a performance spring i would be changing retainers and also adding at the minimum a steel valve lock or a machined steel valve lock.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Just keep in mind that Gen V and VI bbc heads will not work on a Mark IV block without a whloe lot of hassle. There are water jackets that need to be machined and then drilled and tapped and plugged otherwise you end up with coolant in the lifter valley. If you don't believe me then pick up a GM performance book and start reading all about that in their description about the heads.

Also the Gen V and VI no longer use 7/16" screw in rocker studs with an adjustable valve but rather a smaller 3/8" bolt that is non adjustable in stock form.

Depending on the spring diameter determines if you can use stock retainers or not. If i was changing springs to a performance spring i would be changing retainers and also adding at the minimum a steel valve lock or a machined steel valve lock.
Click to expand...
:confused: now I think I will use the peanut ports :D

excuse me for the these questions but I am new to Big blocks
when I've checked the springs, retainers & locks kit I found two versions
one work with 3/8 in. diameter valve stems. and the other with 11/32 in. diameter valve stems

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LUN-73815K2LUN&N=700+0&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LUN-73815K5LUN&N=700+0&autoview=sku

what is the stem diameter of OEM valves ?

thanks
I appreciate your help
 
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