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454 build, tell me what you think.

jk3078

jk3078

1/2 ton status
Joined
Nov 12, 2005
Posts
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Location
Moyie Springs Id.
454,.030 over mark IV block
eagle rotating assy. with forged rods and hyper. Fedral Mogul, 9.5:1 pistons
fully balanced
stock heads, #346236, oval port, open chamber 120cc, 225, 116 ports
comp cams, duration 254/262, lift .505/.505
comp cams double roller timing set
holly street dominatior intake
holly 770cfm truck avenger
stock hei, msd module with rev limiter
clevite 77 rod and main bearings
stock manifolds with 2.5'' duals and flow masters

I am looking to get nice power off idle and up while still being able to spin some rpms. What would be a reasonable rpm limit to set on this motor with out blowing chunks? What do you think the hp/torque out put of this set up might be (ballpark)? This build is right at the edge of my budget but I am all ears if anyone has suggestions, thanks J.
 
If you are spinning it, I would definitely get headers, and safely spin it to 6000 redline. 2 bolt mains I presume? If so, I would put main studs in it, and ARP rodbolts.
 
Headers are out at this point for cost and fitment reasons. The idea of studs (yes its a 2 bolt) and ARP's did cross my mind at one point and after selling some parts this weekend I just might do it. How much of a differance will this make in strength? thanks 76zimmer, J
 
It won't be a 4 bolt, but somewhat in between a 2 and a 4.
Arp's are great insurance.
 
Give 4x4high a PM, he can answer with more experience than I.
 
Those heads are peanut port, so high RPM's are out. The carb and intake are probably to large and more info would be neccesary on the cam.
Of course, I'm no engine builder, but my 2/100.
 
any big block cam swap over stock requires new valve springs. some on here have found this out the hard way.

and if i could i would spurge on a set of full roller rockers. nice 15-20 hp and much more acurate ratios over stamped stockers. plus bbc come with studs in them with guide plates so its a basick bolt on. and the motor will love you for it.

if at all possible ditch the peanut port heads. i got a set of 3917219 heads remaned from a old build years ago that got better heads installed. thay have been sittin here for a few years. shipping to you might be in a good ball park with my price. pm me if you want to talk.
 
sweetk30 said:
any big block cam swap over stock requires new valve springs. some on here have found this out the hard way.

I thought the optional valve train kit from comp cams was for more performance? What are the possible side effects of running the stock valve train? Are we talking lunched cam or what? The roller rocker idea is also good, I didn't realize you could unlock that much hp. I know my heads kind of suck but they are low mile's on a reman and thats some thing I can swap out down the road as money permits. Thanks for the offer though, J
Click to expand...
 
bad side of wrong springs is coil bind /valve springs break /droped valves. as allen mountainexplorer. he has seen it and fixed it and posted pics before.
 
77fixer said:
Those heads are peanut port, so high RPM's are out. The carb and intake are probably to large and more info would be neccesary on the cam.
Of course, I'm no engine builder, but my 2/100.
Click to expand...

The cam and intake both have a listed power range of idle to around 5500rpms so I thought they would be ok with my heads. I really want a truck avenger carb on this motor and I thought the 670 would be to small. Anyone else care to comment? Thanks for the .02 77fixer.

PS I hope the cam and intake work as I already bought them.:(
 
You got some good experience talking to ya here, don't just throw a engine together and hope it works out alright, that gets expensive (done it)
 
76zimmer said:
You got some good experience talking to ya here, don't just throw a engine together and hope it works out alright, that gets expensive (done it)
Click to expand...

I agree, thats why I posted up here! :bow: I am on a budget but I cant afford not to make it reliable as I hope to get a couple years out of this motor. I priced valve springs ,ARP rod bolt and main studs, I can swing those but the roller rockers are out for now.

Does anyone else think this cam/intake/carb choice is to much? Thanks for helping out a newby to engine building, J
 
I hate to say it but those heads are really going to choke your HP. Ask me how I know. If you don't mind having 200hp max at the rear wheels then go for it. After my last dyno with peanut port heads, I will NEVER run a set again. I think the low mileage set I had after my last BBC build, I just gave away.

If it was me on a budget, I'd stay with the stock rotating assembly with decent pistons and do better heads like the 049's or 781's. The non OEM alum heads are even better for flow.

Oh and that manifold won't work well with those peanut heads since you're going from a larger runner in the intake to a smaller runner in the head. This causes your flow to decrease even more.

A good book to read on BBC's is this one here:
http://www.amazon.com/Big-blk-Chevy-Hp1216-Dave-Emanuel/dp/1557882169/ref=pd_bbs_7/103-9323774-7877467?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1175055342&sr=8-7
 
The stock crank, two rods and one piston where all junk when I tore this motor down and the price of the Eagle kit wasn't much more than buying new stock stuff.

sweetk30 pm sent
 
I called RPD racing and they said the rods come with ARP bolts so I will not have to buy those. They are not wave locks though.

Wow, 200 rear wheel horse! That sucks, I was hoping these heads would do a little better than that. Well I guess I will have to live with it untill I can afford better ones. Even 200 rwhp is more than my old oil burning turd eating 350 is making now!:( Thanks again for all the info guys, J
 
jk3078 said:
Wow, 200 rear wheel horse! That sucks, I was hoping these heads would do a little better than that. Well I guess I will have to live with it untill I can afford better ones. Even 200 rwhp is more than my old oil burning turd eating 350 is making now!:( Thanks again for all the info guys, J
Click to expand...
Yeah, you can read about more here and theres a few pics of it on the dyno. Torque is okay but HP sucks with the peanuts.
http://www.off-road.com/chevy/reviews/comp/
dynoback_small.jpg


Later I decided to build a 496.
http://rubicon.off-road.com/chevy/tech/454engine/
It didn't last too long since the cheap machine shop ****ed up the shortblock build and spun main bearings after 3k. You get what you pay for sometimes. :(
 
yes yes yes find and reserch a good machine shop.

we have 2 local socalled motor build hp shops in town. i wouldnt send a lawn mower block to them.

but we have a guy 30 min up the road who only does machine work only. no diss / reassembly work. he is hands down the man in this area. he has 1-3 month waiting list and some times a bit longer. and ha has fair prices.
 
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