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454 eating another lifter**UPDATE**

If the lifter isn't cupped or pitted and is only making a ticking noise a new lifter won't hurt a thing. However, if the cam lobe is bad and you put a new lifter in it will just destroy the new lifter.

i guess i will dissasemble sooner rather than later and see whats going on in there
 
Yes. I only wish they came mech too or I would only use them for everything. I am seriously thinking of going mech roller on a hyd roller for the gf 74 chevelle build up.
 
is there much power to be gained going mechanical? noisy too right? aren't those adjusted with the motor running and hot and tighten untill they just stop clackin? or is it the feeler guage trick?
 
Feeler gauge. I am a true engine guy. There is power to be found in both roller and flat tappet mech. They float less. I think if you don't want too adjust lifters once a year you should have a Park Ave. Still both my 4x4s for now have hyd flat tappets. I love my 454 even if it did eat its first cam.
 
hell, just about everything needs to be adjusted every year anyways. LOL! or sooner.
 
I agree. I like those lifters alot. The gauge in my old 73 K20 didn't work and I drove it a mile to the trailer and in the end it rattled like a coffee grinder. That motor is still seeing 5500-6000 when the mud gets too deep and impressess me everyday with the lugging. I can roll a corner in 4th and it will lug like a 6.2. Of course I love a screaming gas motor best. My camaro motor peaks at 7k and sees 7.5k on the shift. There isn't a better sound on the earth.
 
well, i will see if i can tear into it this weekend and i'll post up what i find.

thanks to all for the replies :thumb:
 
Another thing I have found after doing some research is that when it comes to the problem of having ZDDP removed from the current oils available…Valvoline, VR1, 20-50 racing oil is the only, readily available off-the-shelf oil, which specifically lists ZDDP has been added to it for protection of older flat tappet engines.
 
Brad Penn is recommended by all the cam companies and has lots of zddp
 
Another thing I have found after doing some research is that when it comes to the problem of having ZDDP removed from the current oils available…Valvoline, VR1, 20-50 racing oil is the only, readily available off-the-shelf oil, which specifically lists ZDDP has been added to it for protection of older flat tappet engines.

That is exactly the break-in oil I recommend to customers and it also comes in a 10W/30 as well.
 
Well, tore it all down and it looks like #3 intake lifter is bad. i can easily push/depress the lifter in and out, where as on all the others they are super stiff.

i see no signs of cupping or weird wear and all the cam lobs seem fine...

weird thing is, last time i had the valve covers off, i could swear it was the #8 lifter i could easily depress. not today tho.

so, i guess i should get me some new lifters and fire it up? anything else i might be missing?
 
also, what causes the lifter springs to fail? oiling? overtightening/preloading? or just cheap/bad parts?
 
Hang on a minute. If the lifter is "dry", in other words not full of oil, it will push up and down.
Thats the way hydraulic lifters work. The spring just takes the slack out, the oil does the lifting.
The only way to tell if it is bad, is if it goes down and stays down, or you do a leakdown test with a lifter tester.
Any of them will go up and down if the oil has leaked out. That is why lifters sometimes clatter at first startup.
They have to get full of oil before they tighten up.

J
 
well i can't push any of my other lifter up and down. at least not with out mondo force. where as this one just pushes in nice and easy. i have some new lifters in the shop, i should go do a comparison... otherwise, what else would be giving me the ticking? its louder when you start it untill the oil pressure builds. but even after that its still there. the exhaust is tight- just had it done. cam looks good from what i can tell. all the rocker nuts were tight and showing equal amounts of thread...
 
ok, so i have a set of new comp cams lifters in the garage (for the next one) and i can push them in and out like the one in my truck, so i def have a flat lifter...
 
A good lifter (working lifter) you should not be able to push the plunger down by hand once the lifter has been filled with oil. Iif you can then the lifter is bleeding down and is a bad lifter. There are several parts inside a hydraulic lifter and one of them is a one way valve which is either bad or sticky. If you want to try an OLD TIMERS trick first the next time you have a noisy lifter try running 1 quart of ATF in the engine and that will usually cure a "sticky" lifter. The detergents in the ATF clean any gummy substance from a hydraulic lifter.
 
A good lifter (working lifter) you should not be able to push the plunger down by hand once the lifter has been filled with oil. Iif you can then the lifter is bleeding down and is a bad lifter. There are several parts inside a hydraulic lifter and one of them is a one way valve which is either bad or sticky. If you want to try an OLD TIMERS trick first the next time you have a noisy lifter try running 1 quart of ATF in the engine and that will usually cure a "sticky" lifter. The detergents in the ATF clean any gummy substance from a hydraulic lifter.

An old man once told me that too, but he also said to rev the piss out of it. He knew a lot of stuff, so I'm guessing it was a good idea.
 
I contacted CompCams about my intended oil (Rotella 15w-40) and additive (CC break in additive), not only for the breakin, but every oil change too.
There response was, you can't have too much ZDDP in the mix. Even diesel oils are regulated now by emissions, and have removed the high ZDDP levels they once had. Using the CC breakin additive each oil change would ensure ZDDP levels are maintained for proper cam and lifter life.

In additon they offer this bulletin:

http://www.compcams.com/Base/pdf/FlatTappetCamTechBulletin.pdf

I'm using an oriface face lifter for my setup.
 
I did Brett, the articles I've read say that too much ZDDP can block other additives in the oil. I guess that was his personal opinion. I think if a flat tappet can get 1400-1600 ppm it should be fine from what I've read.
 
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