454 stroked to 496 kit

[Ned Kelly]

Anyone ever try one of these? Looks like a nice way to pick up some cubes.
http://www.dallasexportsales.com/RA496.htm
Price isn't too bad.

 

[SkysTheLimit]

496 strokers are NIIIICE. My stuff is all Eagle forged so I can't speak to that particular brand but I think it's a really nice way to get big displacement and loads of power without going too exotic.

 

[kwissman]

Check flatlanderracing to compare prices. I would go with a 4340 forged crank if you are paying for a forged crank. You need to make sure that the pistons and rods are correct or the crank counterweights will have to be clearanced.

 

[Ned Kelly]

Kwissman,
Good link - thanks. I didn't find that one when I was searching.

Sky,
Do you have a built and running 496? Care to share some details if yes.

I was thiniking of a mild motor, runs on regular pump gas, no high rpm stuff. LOts of torque, reliable, not finicky (like some of my friends built street motors are very tempermental), and all weather - summer and winter capable (ie. all round driveability like an OEM big blocks used to be in the 70's).

I wonder if there is an advantage to Cad500 or 496 stroked BBC? I mean if you had $3000 to spend on a motor, would both provide about the same bang for the buck?

 

[k20]

I got a daily driven 496, SCAT 4340 crank, SCAT 4340 H-beam rods, SRP mini-dome pistons. Worked over 049 heads, hydraulic roller cam, roller rockers, 9.7:1 compression. She'll light em up at the drop of a hat lol.

 

[SkysTheLimit]

Mine's built just not installed. Was running when I pulled it out of the drag car.

forged crank, forged aluminum pistons, pro topline aluminum heads, weiand intake, 2.3/1.88 valves, 10.5:1 comp, roller cam with .698 int & .7 exh lift. so yeah, it's lopey. also got a 150 shot of N2O for it. pucker factor is about 98%. good for around 800hp/730lb ft.

dying to get it installed in the K5. now that the holidays are over, i'm on it like stink on a monkey!

 

[thatK30guy]

For another $500, you could go 540 cubic inches.

 

[Ned Kelly]

Off of another board one guy had this to say about a stroker kit (not sure what vendor sold it as he didn't name a vendor, but www.dallasexportsales.com was mentioned in the thread)

Well heres my

. The parts they are selling aren't bad but might, just might, need to visit a machine shop to verify clearances. Guess how I know? For me the eagle crank and rods needed to be polished, straightened, clearanced, balanced, and resized. So I took a $700. rotating assembly and added about $500. to the price to get it right. But it sure turns smooth

Did your parts match up well or did you also require all this for things to work properly? I would like a source for a kit that would not require this extra expense - or will every kit need this done? I'm a newb at this stroker stuff - but I do know BIG cid is good .

 

[smalltruckbigcid]

That was me. I got my parts for a 383 stroker chev from Campbell enterprises out of South Dakota. And maybe my stuff would have been fine, but my luck has been bad if I try to cut corners. So the crank went to the crank shop where they had to straighten it .0025 and polish the journals. The thrust was the worst. The rods are ok but a little loose. So I need to get .001 under bearings.
George

 

[DEMON44]

I've got a 496 rotating assembly but not yet installed in my 454, forged Caillies crank, aluminum rods, forged JE pistons. I'm looking for a reliable 1000horse with the 8-71.

 

[SkysTheLimit]

All my stuff was fully CNC'd or polished and balanced anyway so I don't know if there were any inconsistencies. All I know is it runs like a raped ape. I've been toying with the idea of a blower or a twin turbo set up. I, like DEMON44, would love to see the 4 digit HP mark.

I don't compete so I dont know for sure but I think alot of the mud drags and other events have a demarc line at 500 cubes. 496 is about as close as you are going to get and still staying in the regulated class and not having to run with people with sponsored rigs pumping out 1500 horse that dont have to drive it home later that day.

 

[DEMON44]

I'm a long ways off or running mine yet. I've got roughly $5-6K in hard parts and maching to go yet before this thing will run.....like canfield heads, blower drive system & intake manifold, blower grind cam shaft and full roller valvetrain.....ect.


but when it runs it will hit the dyno.