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454 tbi rebuild thoughts.
- Thread starter imiceman44
- Start date
Ok now we're getting somewhere.
So this is a 93 engine, so definitely gen V.
I know it had 193k miles so I can spend some money on pistons if I can work with my heads, even if I have to do some porting on the heads my machinist is not the most expensive.
I will definitely put roller cam if the engine has the provision.
Can I bother you with a couple of suggestions of packages?
One for a budget build with some improvements and one with a little more.
following as well as I would like to put a 454 in the 84 stepside. 
I can definitely give you some package options.
Although I got to say I am usually pretty specific to the application and budget, and everyone is different, so anyone that wants something like this let me know and I'll make it more specific to your needs.
Also, I need more information, we have your basic engine you are starting out with, but I need stuff such as vehicle weight, application/usage, gearing, tire size, transmission, converter(if applicable), etc.
Also, what do you consider a budget build?
Are you up for replacing the EFI?
What about emissions requirements?
All these things mean a different outcome of parts and I rarely, if ever, suggest the same combo for any two vehicles.
The heads on these are definitely a bottle neck, but you can still wake it up with a cam, headers and induction. The Gen V has fixed rocker arms I believe, so you may need specific pushrod lengths and/or a rocker arm and stud upgrade, preferably both. Some of that stuff can be expensive if you hire any of it done, in which case it may not be worth putting any money into those heads. But a mild port job and bowl blend can really be beneficial.
Although I got to say I am usually pretty specific to the application and budget, and everyone is different, so anyone that wants something like this let me know and I'll make it more specific to your needs.
Also, I need more information, we have your basic engine you are starting out with, but I need stuff such as vehicle weight, application/usage, gearing, tire size, transmission, converter(if applicable), etc.
Also, what do you consider a budget build?
Are you up for replacing the EFI?
What about emissions requirements?
All these things mean a different outcome of parts and I rarely, if ever, suggest the same combo for any two vehicles.
The heads on these are definitely a bottle neck, but you can still wake it up with a cam, headers and induction. The Gen V has fixed rocker arms I believe, so you may need specific pushrod lengths and/or a rocker arm and stud upgrade, preferably both. Some of that stuff can be expensive if you hire any of it done, in which case it may not be worth putting any money into those heads. But a mild port job and bowl blend can really be beneficial.
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Ok.
This engine is going in a 3/4ton suburban, 4.56 gears 37" tires.
Not necessarily wheeler, more of an all around truck so drive ability and reliability is the goal, occasionally towing a boat to the lake.
I can do a lot of the work myself, especially assembly, the only part I will have my machinist do is actual machining. So I am not worried too much about cost of labor.
I am definitely open to aftermarket efi, the tbi while very reliable in my experience, doesn't give me what I want out of this engine.
Let's start with this much information and see what you got for me, then we can discuss.
So here are a few estimates to ponder so you can narrow it down which path you want to take, keep in mind the prices last year went up 5 or 6 times on me, vs 1 time for a typical year, so these prices are only valid currently, and may change as it's out of my control. Also, I don't recommend junk foreign parts. I sell quality parts that I recommend since they should last. Some brands of stuff are cheaper, but I can't say I recommend them. And my prices are usually very competitive, I try to meet or beat the mail order places.
A hydraulic flat tappet cam and lifters are currently about $250 - $350 depending on the part number.
A hydraulic roller cam and lifters is around $750 - $850 depending on the part number. I always recommend this route if its in the budget because it allows less friction and a faster ramp rate, which means more mid and high lift at the same duration, which can make more power at the same RPM range. However, there is less of a benefit here with peanut port heads, as they don't flow much above 500 lift anyway, but there is still a benefit. Also, you don't have to worry about cam break in like a flat tappet, which is a risk you have to consider.
The ARP Gen V rocker stud upgrade kit is about $48, this allows you to run an adjustable rocker nut on the stock Gen V heads.
Valve Springs for a big block start at around $180 for a good set and go up from there.
Rocker arms vary from $80 for new stamped, $185 for roller tipped, up to over $400 for full foller rocker arms, steel or aluminum.
Pushrods are about $160 for a good one piece set, you can get the ball tipped pushrods for about $52 a set but I don't recommend them because if the ball comes off either end you have troubles, although they are in a lot of factory setups, so they can work. I always run the 1 piece in my own stuff, it's like extra insurance for not much cost relatively speaking.
Long tube headers for a big block in that truck are about $350 right now, painted black. The cost goes up from there, these are welded collector Hooker Competition headers. I don't recommend the stamped collector junk that's cheaper, it will likely leak on you. The cost goes up from here if you want ceramic or stainless.
Aluminum Cylinder heads start at around $2200 for a USA made quality set with larger valves and the correct valve springs already installed.
Pistons start at around $300 for Speed Pro Hypers, and are around $400 for KB hypereutectic heat treated. Forged pistons can easily be over $800, and piston rings start at around $60 for a set of Speed Pro Moly rings, and go up approaching $300 for a set depending on the application.
An intake manifold varies depending on what type you want. Its around $380 - $410 for an Edelbrock Intake for a carb or aftermarket TBI injection.
You can get Edelbrock ProFlo4 EFI for about $2090 w/o tablet, or $2200 w/ Tablet. That includes the intake manifold, rails, throttle body, sensors, computer, wiring, etc. This is the easiest way to get sequential multi port fuel injection. The only thing you need is the fuel system upgrade for high pressure, which is basically a pump and regulator and some plumbing for a TBI truck. Pump is about $125 for a Walbro or Holley in tank. Regulator is $80 - $160 for an adjustable. Plus the plumbing can be simple Earls Vapor guard, or higher end braided with lines.
If you want more capability or trans control, you can step to a Holley. The Stealth Terminator X TBI (not MPFI or sequential) is about $1680 w/o trans control, and about $2k w/ trans control.
If you want to use the Holley and have full MPFI, then it's around $2400 w/o distributor (use your own, no sequential), add ~$400 w/ new dual sync distributor for sequential injection, and add ~$340 for integrated trans control (4L60E - 4L80E). This is a full kit I piece together from Holley including the MPFI intake without the fuel system, similar to the Edelbrock all in one kit, but with more tuneability, and also a handheld for no laptop if you would rather use it that way. But if you want, you can hook up a laptop for limitless tuning. This uses a Terminator X ECU.
I don't recommend the Sniper, if you want to go that route I can get it for you at a good price, but can't say I recommend it or support it.
Some of this stuff I have in stock, some of it I order as needed. And right now getting stuff is not fast if myself, the manufacturers or distributors don't have it in stock.
Just to swap a cam and springs starts around $500 or more. And it escalates from there.
I can narrow it down further with actual options if you want to proceed. You can really wake up a big block, is just a matter of how much.
The most important things are the induction and tune(intake and carb/efi, ignition timing. etc), headers, camshaft, and then cylinder head work or replacement and/or compression increases (heads or pistons).
A hydraulic flat tappet cam and lifters are currently about $250 - $350 depending on the part number.
A hydraulic roller cam and lifters is around $750 - $850 depending on the part number. I always recommend this route if its in the budget because it allows less friction and a faster ramp rate, which means more mid and high lift at the same duration, which can make more power at the same RPM range. However, there is less of a benefit here with peanut port heads, as they don't flow much above 500 lift anyway, but there is still a benefit. Also, you don't have to worry about cam break in like a flat tappet, which is a risk you have to consider.
The ARP Gen V rocker stud upgrade kit is about $48, this allows you to run an adjustable rocker nut on the stock Gen V heads.
Valve Springs for a big block start at around $180 for a good set and go up from there.
Rocker arms vary from $80 for new stamped, $185 for roller tipped, up to over $400 for full foller rocker arms, steel or aluminum.
Pushrods are about $160 for a good one piece set, you can get the ball tipped pushrods for about $52 a set but I don't recommend them because if the ball comes off either end you have troubles, although they are in a lot of factory setups, so they can work. I always run the 1 piece in my own stuff, it's like extra insurance for not much cost relatively speaking.
Long tube headers for a big block in that truck are about $350 right now, painted black. The cost goes up from there, these are welded collector Hooker Competition headers. I don't recommend the stamped collector junk that's cheaper, it will likely leak on you. The cost goes up from here if you want ceramic or stainless.
Aluminum Cylinder heads start at around $2200 for a USA made quality set with larger valves and the correct valve springs already installed.
Pistons start at around $300 for Speed Pro Hypers, and are around $400 for KB hypereutectic heat treated. Forged pistons can easily be over $800, and piston rings start at around $60 for a set of Speed Pro Moly rings, and go up approaching $300 for a set depending on the application.
An intake manifold varies depending on what type you want. Its around $380 - $410 for an Edelbrock Intake for a carb or aftermarket TBI injection.
You can get Edelbrock ProFlo4 EFI for about $2090 w/o tablet, or $2200 w/ Tablet. That includes the intake manifold, rails, throttle body, sensors, computer, wiring, etc. This is the easiest way to get sequential multi port fuel injection. The only thing you need is the fuel system upgrade for high pressure, which is basically a pump and regulator and some plumbing for a TBI truck. Pump is about $125 for a Walbro or Holley in tank. Regulator is $80 - $160 for an adjustable. Plus the plumbing can be simple Earls Vapor guard, or higher end braided with lines.
If you want more capability or trans control, you can step to a Holley. The Stealth Terminator X TBI (not MPFI or sequential) is about $1680 w/o trans control, and about $2k w/ trans control.
If you want to use the Holley and have full MPFI, then it's around $2400 w/o distributor (use your own, no sequential), add ~$400 w/ new dual sync distributor for sequential injection, and add ~$340 for integrated trans control (4L60E - 4L80E). This is a full kit I piece together from Holley including the MPFI intake without the fuel system, similar to the Edelbrock all in one kit, but with more tuneability, and also a handheld for no laptop if you would rather use it that way. But if you want, you can hook up a laptop for limitless tuning. This uses a Terminator X ECU.
I don't recommend the Sniper, if you want to go that route I can get it for you at a good price, but can't say I recommend it or support it.
Some of this stuff I have in stock, some of it I order as needed. And right now getting stuff is not fast if myself, the manufacturers or distributors don't have it in stock.
Just to swap a cam and springs starts around $500 or more. And it escalates from there.
I can narrow it down further with actual options if you want to proceed. You can really wake up a big block, is just a matter of how much.
The most important things are the induction and tune(intake and carb/efi, ignition timing. etc), headers, camshaft, and then cylinder head work or replacement and/or compression increases (heads or pistons).
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