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454 Vortec Overheating, I'm running out of ideas....

I would attempt simply tightening the cover plate bolts first....

That was my first thought as well however I don’t want a band aid fix to rear it’s ugly head later. I’ll be depending on this vehicle for towing and longer trips so it’s worth the time to fix it right.

The pump is being exchanged under warranty and upgraded to a HD version.
 
That was my first thought as well however I don’t want a band aid fix to rear it’s ugly head later. I’ll be depending on this vehicle for towing and longer trips so it’s worth the time to fix it right.

The pump is being exchanged under warranty and upgraded to a HD version.
Free coolant too? You’ve had a heck of a good time with this one
 
I hope you buy concentrate and dilute it yourself. Cuts the cost of coolant in half.
 
Reminds me of the picture I posted last fall after a couple engine pulls and probably a rad swap.
20201119_213424.jpg
 
I am also guilty of catching nearly new coolant in a big bin, filtering it and pouring it back in later.
 
I hope you buy concentrate and dilute it yourself. Cuts the cost of coolant in half.

I bought pre-mix.

$11.50 for pre mix or $17.00 for concentrate and I need to buy distilled water. I don't see the point of running concentrate at those rates.

Reminds me of the picture I posted last fall after a couple engine pulls and probably a rad swap.
View attachment 405962

I had that times 4 or 5 built up from the past few months of auto maintenance on my cars & trucks. Brought it to the recycle center last weekend.

I am also guilty of catching nearly new coolant in a big bin, filtering it and pouring it back in later.

In hindsight I wish I would have pressure washed the cross member and rad support. Too much crap built up so I dumped it all.
 
Used antifreeze is good for things like getting ice out of thresholds and feeding the mice. The cats don't touch it, at least until they eat the mice, I suppose.
 
As the thread title states, I have a 97 K2500 Suburban, 122K miles with a 454 Vortec that's overheating. I've done a bunch of work to it over the past few months and before I pull the heads I want to see if I'm possibly overlooking another problem causing the overheating. Here's a summary of issues and work I've done to the truck.

The truck came from my brother, he was moving across the country and he made it about 30 miles before the truck started to overheat. It was losing a lot of coolant, he didn't know why so he topped it off a couple times and eventually made it back home. A few weeks later I went to pick the truck up and found it low on fluid and found the culprit, broken heater hose fitting for the rear heat. I capped it off, topped off the fluid and made the 8 mile drive home with no issues.

Since I had the system open for the heater hoses and fittings, I decided to replace the water pump, thermostat, upper/lower radiator hoses and the fan clutch. After I finished installing all those parts I found the operating temp would sit at 225 and quickly jump to 240+ if I drove it or held the rpm at 1500+ rpms while stationary. I also found a small leak on the radiator so I ordered a spectra replacement radiator and installed that.

The same overheating issue continued with a new radiator and I noticed the truck was running a little rough and smoking out the tail pipe a little. Based on the smokle I started to think maybe it had a head gasket failure so I pulled the plugs. I found the plugs on the drivers bank were normal and the passenger bank were black, rich as hell (none of the plugs showed signs of coolant). Some quick research told me the culprit was likely the upper O2 on that bank so I bought all 4 Denso O2's and replaced the uppers on both banks and installed new AC Delco plugs. The truck ran a lot better, no more smoke however the overheating condition continued.

Pic of the plugs and upper O2's
View attachment 403392

I decided to connect my Autel Scanner for some live data and noticed my CTS for the ECU was showing 185-195 while the temp sensor in the head for the gauge was showing 225+ (via the dash gauge). I started to wonder if the truck was really overheating or possibly a sensor was failing so I replaced both temp sensors with AC Delco parts. Once again, those parts didn't make a difference.

I started to wonder if I had air in the system or possibly the thermostat was sticking so I swapped out the thermostat for a 195 degree Stant (drilled two 1/8" holes in it) and bought a OEM tools funnel kit so I could properly bleed all the air out. I also pressure tested the coolant system and confirmed it held pressure as it should. No changes......

I haven't touched it for a month until this morning when I noticed a dab of weird milky crap under the oil cap and the oil level was high. I've seen a milky cap before but never a small amount like this and the color is usually lighter.
View attachment 403393


Now I'm back on the head gasket or cracked head possibility so I pulled all the plugs and dropped the oil. Plugs looked great, no sign of coolant and the oil looked very watery so I put it a clear plastic bin so I could see coolant separate, assuming it had some mixed in. I still can't smell worth a shit so I had a friend confirm it smells like gas, really strong gas. No separation was found in the oil and no sign of coolant after several hours. I can only assume it was running rich enough on the passenger bank that the oil was washed out with fuel. I replaced the oil filter and put new oil in the engine and while I was at the store I picked up a coolant testing tool so I could see if exhaust can be found in the coolant. That test came back negative.

At this point I'm not sure if it's a HG issue or some sort of cooling issue? The fact the truck drove home from my brothers house without overheating and all the problems started AFTER I replaced the entire cooling system, makes me question it being a HG or cracked head. I also keep wondering why there's a large difference in the temp readings between the head and the intake manifold.

I'm all ears for any ideas you guys might have.

pic of the truck
View attachment 403394
buy a coolant tester, that tests for compression in the coolant, all the parts stores have em, they're cheap.

that's how i postively identified a head gasket or crack in heads & or block on a 305 sbc in my 3rd gen camaro, without tearing down the engine.

I had a very small compression leak that would not show up for 20-30 minutes, then it boiled over, engine ran perfect, good compression, big ass ron davis radiator, with dual electric fans, new, not rebuilt water pump. Nothing made any difference.

Did the coolant test, boom hydrocarbons in the coolant.
It's such a pita to pull the heads off of 3rd gens, i just pulled the engine & replaced it with a 383 sbc crate engine from blueprint engines.

Why replace a engine that may only have a blown headgasket?

To do the job right, you need to totally bust the engine down, have it cleaned up and tested for cracks, warpage, etc., then you're going to want to replace all the gaskets, seals, piston rings, bearings anyway, even if it needs zero machine work, at that point your well into the cost of a crate engine...
For me it was less work and not much more money to go the crate engine route than taking a gamble that the compression in the coolant was only the headgasket. or the pita of rebuilding what i had myself and the time and money at the local machine shop.
 
buy a coolant tester, that tests for compression in the coolant, all the parts stores have em, they're cheap.

Did that already, came back negative. The replacement pump fixed the overheating issue until it started leaking a couple days ago.

prior to the second pump installation I was ready to pull the top end have the heads checked out, I'm glad I didn't.
 
Did that already, came back negative. The replacement pump fixed the overheating issue until it started leaking a couple days ago.

prior to the second pump installation I was ready to pull the top end have the heads checked out, I'm glad I didn't.
it took 30 minutes for the compression to show up in mine, i kept retesting cause i felt it was a small leak and i'd checked and or replaced everything else. i had no leaks only a boil over after a 20-30 minute drive. I could not get it to boil over without driving it. I also paid a shop to test it before doing it myself and finding what they said they did not find.

best of luck to ya.
 
Did that already, came back negative. The replacement pump fixed the overheating issue until it started leaking a couple days ago.

prior to the second pump installation I was ready to pull the top end have the heads checked out, I'm glad I didn't.
i also never buy rebuilt waterpumps, alternators, starters, etc., i've had nothing but problems when i don't buy new, made in usa; i don't care if they'll replace for free the mexican rebuilt whatever it is they're selling at the parts stores these days, duracrap, etc, but i'll never get my time and aggravation back. this may not be your issue, but i reccomend new, not rebuilt when it comes to that stuff, if available.
 
I bought pre-mix.

$11.50 for pre mix or $17.00 for concentrate and I need to buy distilled water. I don't see the point of running concentrate at those rates.
Every time I've looked there's only $2 or $3 difference between 50/50 and concentrate in the same brand. Distilled water is $2/gallon at Walmart or Walgreens. Maybe the concentrate is harder to come by in some places.
 
it took 30 minutes for the compression to show up in mine, i kept retesting cause i felt it was a small leak and i'd checked and or replaced everything else. i had no leaks only a boil over after a 20-30 minute drive. I could not get it to boil over without driving it. I also paid a shop to test it before doing it myself and finding what they said they did not find.

best of luck to ya.

In my case, it was a flow issue with a shitty pump. I've fixed a dozen engines with head gaskets failures, cracked heads on a variety of different engine platforms however I've always found a clue in the oil, coolant or combustion chamber. Not on this engine, hence the reason why the thread was started.

Every time I've looked there's only $2 or $3 difference between 50/50 and concentrate in the same brand. Distilled water is $2/gallon at Walmart or Walgreens. Maybe the concentrate is harder to come by in some places.

I remember the same thing and always purchased the concentrate until a year or two ago. I've found lot's of concentrate on the shelf recently, way more than the premixed stuff.
 

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