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454 Vortec Overheating, I'm running out of ideas....

skunked

phat block everything
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As the thread title states, I have a 97 K2500 Suburban, 122K miles with a 454 Vortec that's overheating. I've done a bunch of work to it over the past few months and before I pull the heads I want to see if I'm possibly overlooking another problem causing the overheating. Here's a summary of issues and work I've done to the truck.

The truck came from my brother, he was moving across the country and he made it about 30 miles before the truck started to overheat. It was losing a lot of coolant, he didn't know why so he topped it off a couple times and eventually made it back home. A few weeks later I went to pick the truck up and found it low on fluid and found the culprit, broken heater hose fitting for the rear heat. I capped it off, topped off the fluid and made the 8 mile drive home with no issues.

Since I had the system open for the heater hoses and fittings, I decided to replace the water pump, thermostat, upper/lower radiator hoses and the fan clutch. After I finished installing all those parts I found the operating temp would sit at 225 and quickly jump to 240+ if I drove it or held the rpm at 1500+ rpms while stationary. I also found a small leak on the radiator so I ordered a spectra replacement radiator and installed that.

The same overheating issue continued with a new radiator and I noticed the truck was running a little rough and smoking out the tail pipe a little. Based on the smokle I started to think maybe it had a head gasket failure so I pulled the plugs. I found the plugs on the drivers bank were normal and the passenger bank were black, rich as hell (none of the plugs showed signs of coolant). Some quick research told me the culprit was likely the upper O2 on that bank so I bought all 4 Denso O2's and replaced the uppers on both banks and installed new AC Delco plugs. The truck ran a lot better, no more smoke however the overheating condition continued.

Pic of the plugs and upper O2's
IMG_1665.jpg

I decided to connect my Autel Scanner for some live data and noticed my CTS for the ECU was showing 185-195 while the temp sensor in the head for the gauge was showing 225+ (via the dash gauge). I started to wonder if the truck was really overheating or possibly a sensor was failing so I replaced both temp sensors with AC Delco parts. Once again, those parts didn't make a difference.

I started to wonder if I had air in the system or possibly the thermostat was sticking so I swapped out the thermostat for a 195 degree Stant (drilled two 1/8" holes in it) and bought a OEM tools funnel kit so I could properly bleed all the air out. I also pressure tested the coolant system and confirmed it held pressure as it should. No changes......

I haven't touched it for a month until this morning when I noticed a dab of weird milky crap under the oil cap and the oil level was high. I've seen a milky cap before but never a small amount like this and the color is usually lighter.
IMG_2016.jpg


Now I'm back on the head gasket or cracked head possibility so I pulled all the plugs and dropped the oil. Plugs looked great, no sign of coolant and the oil looked very watery so I put it a clear plastic bin so I could see coolant separate, assuming it had some mixed in. I still can't smell worth a shit so I had a friend confirm it smells like gas, really strong gas. No separation was found in the oil and no sign of coolant after several hours. I can only assume it was running rich enough on the passenger bank that the oil was washed out with fuel. I replaced the oil filter and put new oil in the engine and while I was at the store I picked up a coolant testing tool so I could see if exhaust can be found in the coolant. That test came back negative.

At this point I'm not sure if it's a HG issue or some sort of cooling issue? The fact the truck drove home from my brothers house without overheating and all the problems started AFTER I replaced the entire cooling system, makes me question it being a HG or cracked head. I also keep wondering why there's a large difference in the temp readings between the head and the intake manifold.

I'm all ears for any ideas you guys might have.

pic of the truck
IMG_1664.jpg
 
Would that cause it to make chocolate milk?
I wouldn’t necessarily condemn it from that on the cap. I’ve seen that on engines that don’t get driven enough to get the oil temp up hot enough to boil off condensation.
 
I thought about that, in fact I bought another one today. The pump in the truck now is a durlast, purchased by my brother before he left town.
Also fan clutch has a rotation arrow I think.
Radiator hose collapsing?
 
Also fan clutch has a rotation arrow I think.
Radiator hose collapsing?
I'll have to look at the clutch, I didn't notice any markings. Lower radiator hose is not collapsing, in fact I put my hand on it as i reved it up. The gauge on the head is showing 225+ and I can hold onto that lower hose, it's not that hot. The upper hose is hot, I can't hold onto that one.
 
Since the upper hose is hot and lower is cooler, to me that says the coolant is flowing in the correct direction. Where is the ect sensor for the ecm located?
 
Since the upper hose is hot and lower is cooler, to me that says the coolant is flowing in the correct direction. Where is the ect sensor for the ecm located?

On the intake manifold, right below the thermostat.
C64604AF-7F32-4671-B492-F7A7914C42E9.jpeg
 
I would be wanting a second opinion on that temperature coming from the head sensor.
 
Kind of a pain, but totally worth it if it proves your theory
 
L29’s have two coolant temp sensors. One for the gauge, in the head and one in the intake for the pcm. Reading at the head can be higher than in the intake.

Given some of the other symptoms that have been found has there been any effort to check and see if there was combustion pressure in the cooling system? If the head gasket failed and pressure was elevated in the cooling system. It would usually go past the cap and puke out into the puke tank.
 
L29’s have two coolant temp sensors. One for the gauge, in the head and one in the intake for the pcm. Reading at the head can be higher than in the intake.

Given some of the other symptoms that have been found has there been any effort to check and see if there was combustion pressure in the cooling system? If the head gasket failed and pressure was elevated in the cooling system. It would usually go past the cap and puke out into the puke tank.

I'm use to seeing the temp difference between the head and manifold but not 35+ degrees.

I just pressurized the cooling system to see if it held pressure and it passed. I also tested the coolant with a leak detector and it passed as well. No puking or excessive pressure that I can see.
 
I'm use to seeing the temp difference between the head and manifold but not 35+ degrees.

I just pressurized the cooling system to see if it held pressure and it passed. I also tested the coolant with a leak detector and it passed as well. No puking or excessive pressure that I can see.
So I guess that brings the question is the gauge the only thing giving the indicator to the overheat? Smoke is gone, plugs don’t show any evidence of being washed clean with coolant either. No combustion pressure in the cooling system. I assume it’s running normal when the gauge shows hot too?

If the sensor for the pcm is not reading hot when the gauge is showing it’s overheating and the sender is new it might be that the cluster itself is off. Not much you can do to address that. Installing a mechanical or aftermarket electric gauge that runs more in line would confirm. Since you really can’t go out and get replacement clusters that easy for the old stuff you could just leave the aftermarket gauge installed so you had an accurate reading or use an OBD2 Bluetooth device to be able to monitor with your phone from the other sensor.
 
So I guess that brings the question is the gauge the only thing giving the indicator to the overheat? Smoke is gone, plugs don’t show any evidence of being washed clean with coolant either. No combustion pressure in the cooling system. I assume it’s running normal when the gauge shows hot too?

If the sensor for the pcm is not reading hot when the gauge is showing it’s overheating and the sender is new it might be that the cluster itself is off. Not much you can do to address that. Installing a mechanical or aftermarket electric gauge that runs more in line would confirm. Since you really can’t go out and get replacement clusters that easy for the old stuff you could just leave the aftermarket gauge installed so you had an accurate reading or use an OBD2 Bluetooth device to be able to monitor with your phone from the other sensor.

It runs great and the idle is smooth. The only sign of it being hot is the gauge.

I’m going to install the mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it says.

Thanks
 
Hand help temp gun. Check the head at the sensor.

I would leaning towards a faulty gauge. You have been through everything else.
 

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