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468 BB Chevy - What is this worth?

Well the math is in for the predicted compression for the rebuild.

Compression won't be very high. Went with nearly flat pistons (12cc slight domed) so I can use Regular Gas. Our initial math is

12 cc small dome: 9.6:1 static, 7.5:1 dynamic

Pistons going in are:
Pro Max Chevy 396-502 (Mark IV) 2618 Forged Open Chamber Small Dome - Standard Deck Block 12.0cc Piston

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-853127612

Should still get good hp and a BUNCH or torque from the 4.25 stroke forged crank.
 
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Thats close to where I’m at 9.8 static and 8.2 dynamic, and it runs great on 92 fuel. My pistons are 23cc domes. 461 ci
 
That combination will work well, you wanted to use regular gas so we stuck with the smaller dome on the pistons, but that entire engine combo will work very well together, you will have a lot of fun with it and it's built like a tank so it should last a long time assuming the machining and assembly are done correctly. You definitely like to use more than adequate parts, a forged crank and pistons is top notch, and a hydraulic roller cam is the way to go . I look forward to seeing a video of that beast running in the rig!
 
The crank is being balanced now. Block has been bored and it's ready for paint. Going with Por15 Chevy Orange. Hoping to start assembly in next week or two.

The Edelbrock oil pan is out for black powder coating. Should look good with the black Chevy emblem valve covers.
 
Looking for recommendations for headders! Looking for 3" pipe. Hoping to do stainless all the way to the tips. Thinking ceramic headders. I'll need one bung for the Pro-Flo system.
 
I don't know of anyone making stainless for our rigs yet. One of the benefits of stainless is the lower heat transfer than steel, you don't really need a ceramic coating if you do find stainless. Ceramic is beneficial if you use steel. I can get American Racing Headers, Hooker, Hedman, Schoenfield, Dynatech, Dougs, etc...

I think you are on the money with a 3" collector, that engine will want more than a 2.5" exhaust.
 
If no stainless then definitely buy the headers already ceramic coated. There's no savings in buying them bare and having them coated plus you involve a 3rd party in the event of any warranty issues later.
 
O2 bung can be in the ruducer or pipe after the collector so you dont need to have it in the header if your having trouble finding a set with them in it .

EDITED for wrong info i forgot to type out .
 
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My concern is getting a brand with thin steel. I'd rather pay for thicker Guage & Ceramic than save a few $ and get a piss poor product.
 
Make sure you get a welded collector flange, not a thin rotating piece that just clamps a stamped collector ring, they just leak and rust. Ball flange is even better, V band is the best.

For mild steel I would get at least 16 ga, 18 is thin for that. Some brands have 14 ga but not really necessary, it just gets heavy and makes the ID smaller. Although it may be a little quieter in the interior depending on the rest of the system.

For stainless 18 ga is fine, light and works good and won't rust anyway, 16 ga is plenty thick.

As long as you stay away from the cheapie headers you will be fine. I like Hooker or Hedman elite for a good deal with a quality header. American Racing Headers are top of the line stainless, but they don't make them for our trucks. Same with Kooks and Stainless Works.
 
folkenheath said:
Make sure you get a welded collector flange, not a thin rotating piece that just clamps a stamped collector ring, they just leak and rust. Ball flange is even better, V band is the best.

For mild steel I would get at least 16 ga, 18 is thin for that. Some brands have 14 ga but not really necessary, it just gets heavy and makes the ID smaller. Although it may be a little quieter in the interior depending on the rest of the system.

For stainless 18 ga is fine, light and works good and won't rust anyway, 16 ga is plenty thick.

As long as you stay away from the cheapie headers you will be fine. I like Hooker or Hedman elite for a good deal with a quality header. American Racing Headers are top of the line stainless, but they don't make them for our trucks. Same with Kooks and Stainless Works.
Click to expand...
Understood. I'll shoot for 16ga if I can find it. Will go with 3" stainless piping. I'll need to find a shop to do the bending unless there is a kit....havent found one yet.
 
ZombieK5 said:
Understood. I'll shoot for 16ga if I can find it. Will go with 3" stainless piping. I'll need to find a shop to do the bending unless there is a kit....havent found one yet.
Click to expand...

You most likely won't find a pre-bent kit for your truck. I did a Flowmaster stainless DIY kit with some bends and it came out really good. We were able to run a true dual setup that was pretty symmetrical with some pipe left over.
 
I can get these through my distributor, will need to be shortened to work with the blazer...

stainlessworks.net

1967-87 Chevy Truck K Catback

Shop Stainless Works for premium American-made 304 stainless steel headers and exhaust systems. Build your perfect setup with header kits, muffler kits, X-pipes, H-pipes, clamps, and mud boat mufflers. Designed for muscle car enthusiasts seeking unmatched performance and durability
stainlessworks.net stainlessworks.net

Although they don't make stainless BBC headers anyway, but they do offer it in 3" Combined with some nice ceramic coated headers would work well.
 
i think thats the brand headers that were on a fox body i swapped the engine last year on . they were DAM NICE headers .
 
folkenheath said:
I can get these through my distributor, will need to be shortened to work with the blazer...

stainlessworks.net

1967-87 Chevy Truck K Catback

Shop Stainless Works for premium American-made 304 stainless steel headers and exhaust systems. Build your perfect setup with header kits, muffler kits, X-pipes, H-pipes, clamps, and mud boat mufflers. Designed for muscle car enthusiasts seeking unmatched performance and durability
stainlessworks.net stainlessworks.net

Although they don't make stainless BBC headers anyway, but they do offer it in 3" Combined with some nice ceramic coated headers would work well.
Click to expand...
If they don't make headders for the BB Chevy, won't I still need to fab the connection to the headder? Any idea about thr muffler tone? Would I be able to swap in other mufflers?
 
It's pretty common to have to weld in exhaust collectors, etc. It looks like they come with some 3 bolt collectors, so they may bolt up to some Hooker Comps(thats what I have had for the past 12 years) and just use some nice stainless stepped band clamps. Then again, maybe the angles won't be perfect enough since you have to shorten it about 11" if its a shortbed system.

The mufflers appear to be standard center in center out units, I wonder if they offer it without mufflers so you can put some Borlas or Aerochambers in there or whatever muffler you choose.
 
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