You should have posted a picture of it BEFORE you bolted the main caps back on.
Now we can tell you that you should have removed the bolts before hammering on the cap.
And yes, I expect a flip-off emoji in return.
CK5
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468 BB Chevy - What is this worth?
- Thread starter ZombieK5
- Start date
Now we can tell you that you should have removed the bolts before hammering on the cap.
And yes, I expect a flip-off emoji in return.
I deserved that one....but thank you for your support.You should have posted a picture of it BEFORE you bolted the main caps back on.
Now we can tell you that you should have removed the bolts before hammering on the cap.
And yes, I expect a flip-off emoji in return.
I agree, no big deal on the pieces chipping off the main cap. Years ago a friend and I raced mud bogs, nice frisky roller bbc, etc etc. During an oil change I found a piece of metal on the magnetic drain plug, we pull the motor and had it partially torn down before we figured out it was the exact same piece you’re dealing with. We cleaned it up, put the heads back on it and ran it 2-3 weeks later. Never had a bit of trouble.
Oh torque will be had by one and all. Make no mistake. I am running a 400 made for everything below 4000rpm and I snapped a rear driveline. Upgrade your drivelines and the burnouts will be most righteous.
Joel
Norcal
I would say you are going to be disappointed, because it is going to be a torque monster, but you won't actually be disappointed.........
Martin
We'll get you a good oil pump driveshaft with the metal sleeve for extra insurance when you are ready to get the oil pump and pickup, etc. I recommend them anyway, it shouldn't be a problem, the shaft is supported pretty well right there since its immediately before the pump, it should never touch that part of the casting anyway or there is a different problem if the oil pump shaft is that sloppy.
You are getting some really good parts for this engine build, I am excited for you.
You are getting some really good parts for this engine build, I am excited for you.
Did you want the pistons? Take them off the rods?
Going aluminum! 781s are yours. Hope you live close to Philly.. Can't see shipping theseCome drive my K5 454 w/Edelbrock Pro-Flo MPFI = throttle response is fawken amazing! I can Rap Rap Rap the engine to jingle bells tune if I want = zero delay
Oh and dibs on the 781's if you go aluminum
Just going to drop some recommendations for your block in here. This is what I recommend for a good solid mild performance rebuild.
Some of these things I always do myself, some only the machine shop can do...
First boil and magnaflux and inspect the entire block to start out with to be sure you have a clean crack free block before any work is done. It sucks paying to boil and magnaflux a junk block sometimes, but that's better than paying to have a junk block machined. I dont expect any problems here, but it still needs to be done.
Then check the bores for what it needs to cleanup so you can get the pistons on order.
Then have it bored for those pistons, along with align honing the mains if needed (with ARP main studs I suggest for this build).
Then the block needs to be clearanced for the stroker crank where the rods would hit by the oil pan rails. This is usually done by mockup assembly with no piston rings. Some do this with a die grinder, and some do it with the milling machine, you want at least .050 thousands clearance minimum everywhere for a full rotation, or closer to .080.
Then the block needs to be decked for a clean square deck surface for both heads that is .000 - .005 above the piston. Of course this is assuming you have the correct crank rod and piston combination. It should only require decking the block a minimum (.005" - .020"). Another option is to just go enough to clean it up and then buy the correct thickness gaskets to have the proper quench.
Then the whole block and all oil galleys need cleaned out and new plugs installed, along with new cam bearings. This requires a cam bearing installation tool, they have to be carefully pressed into the block in order with the correct orientation to align the oil holes.
At that point it should be ready for shortblock assembly.
Some of these things I always do myself, some only the machine shop can do...
First boil and magnaflux and inspect the entire block to start out with to be sure you have a clean crack free block before any work is done. It sucks paying to boil and magnaflux a junk block sometimes, but that's better than paying to have a junk block machined. I dont expect any problems here, but it still needs to be done.
Then check the bores for what it needs to cleanup so you can get the pistons on order.
Then have it bored for those pistons, along with align honing the mains if needed (with ARP main studs I suggest for this build).
Then the block needs to be clearanced for the stroker crank where the rods would hit by the oil pan rails. This is usually done by mockup assembly with no piston rings. Some do this with a die grinder, and some do it with the milling machine, you want at least .050 thousands clearance minimum everywhere for a full rotation, or closer to .080.
Then the block needs to be decked for a clean square deck surface for both heads that is .000 - .005 above the piston. Of course this is assuming you have the correct crank rod and piston combination. It should only require decking the block a minimum (.005" - .020"). Another option is to just go enough to clean it up and then buy the correct thickness gaskets to have the proper quench.
Then the whole block and all oil galleys need cleaned out and new plugs installed, along with new cam bearings. This requires a cam bearing installation tool, they have to be carefully pressed into the block in order with the correct orientation to align the oil holes.
At that point it should be ready for shortblock assembly.
I whole heartedly agree with pressure checking and magging the block! Ive been burned by a cracked block before! I suggest the pressure check because you cant check everywhere for cracks where the fluids flow.
Studded bottom end w 4 bolt mains seems overkill for this build?
Studded bottom end w 4 bolt mains seems overkill for this build?
He has a forged Callies crank and Callies rods and wants forged pistons, I think he likes overkill.
I am just trying to match the parts all up for this build level. I also like to use the studs that have the mounts for a windage tray, but of course that is optional too. If he wants to keep the factory bolts that is fine too, up him. The Callies rods have ARP bolts in them already, and he wants new ARP head bolts( some of the bolts are longer with the aftermarket heads anwyay). It's really the only important bolts left Dave...
At least I didn't ask him to put main studs on the outer studs of a splayed cap block.....
Seriously though, it is the last week point of the shortblock, if he ever wants to add boost or something he's already more than ready for it at this point. I know on more than one occasion I had one weekspot and then 5 years later I want to spray it or something and I think, man, when I do it anyway, I hope that one piece doesn't break. ha ha!
I am just trying to match the parts all up for this build level. I also like to use the studs that have the mounts for a windage tray, but of course that is optional too. If he wants to keep the factory bolts that is fine too, up him. The Callies rods have ARP bolts in them already, and he wants new ARP head bolts( some of the bolts are longer with the aftermarket heads anwyay). It's really the only important bolts left Dave...
At least I didn't ask him to put main studs on the outer studs of a splayed cap block.....
Seriously though, it is the last week point of the shortblock, if he ever wants to add boost or something he's already more than ready for it at this point. I know on more than one occasion I had one weekspot and then 5 years later I want to spray it or something and I think, man, when I do it anyway, I hope that one piece doesn't break. ha ha!
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If I'm gonna kill something I'm gonna make sure I do it right!
Ill stick with the existing bolts for the mains. Need something to bitch about later.He has a forged Callies crank and Callies rods and wants forged pistons, I think he likes overkill.
I am just trying to match the parts all up for this build level. I also like to use the studs that have the mounts for a windage tray, but of course that is optional too. If he wants to keep the factory bolts that is fine too, up him. The Callies rods have ARP bolts in them already, and he wants new ARP head bolts( some of the bolts are longer with the aftermarket heads anwyay). It's really the only important bolts left Dave...
At least I didn't ask him to put main studs on the outer studs of a splayed cap block.....
Seriously though, it is the last week point of the shortblock, if he ever wants to add boost or something he's already more than ready for it at this point. I know on more than one occasion I had one weekspot and then 5 years later I want to spray it or something and I think, man, when I do it anyway, I hope that one piece doesn't break. ha ha!
Btw... Crank just arrived. I'll take a photo of it next to the old one.
Patiently waiting to see what cam will be used..... 
Soon all will be revealedPatiently waiting to see what cam will be used.....
Crankshaft arrived. Took UPS guy to the emergency room 1st so he can have back surgery but it sounds like he will be fine.
Ooooh Ahhh!!!
Christmas came early. Major parts delivery thanks to Heath!
....
