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468 BB Chevy - What is this worth?

sweetk30 said:
with the 8.1 a cross over of bbc and ls the guys i talked with over on edelbrock think you could use a standalone kit for a ls on a 8.1 maybe with the 8.1 guts .
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If you just had to have control over the tuning without buying hp tuners or other software then I see that as an option.

I'm not that patient to fool with the tuning and wanted turn key oem driveability and reliability. Using Larry's proven recipe and tune from his truck gave me just that. I haven't found a situation where the tune wasn't right on.
 
Bent77 said:
If you have a Samsung, you can tune the Edelbrock with your phone

There are several different brand of EFI options. The good ones will change the intake because they are Multi Port FI, one injector per port and fired sequentially instead of batch injection. The factory setup on the L29 and 8.1 engines aren't even to bad

You would need a baffled tank, electric fuel pump, and return line to the tank. Handful of adapter fittings, fuel regulator
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Edelbrock will require a baffled tank? Just spent two days cleaning and sealing a 1986 31 gallon... No baffles
 
not for that . its the efi sender with pump down in the tank for the efi that the baffle is required . keeps fuel in the pump area to keep it sucking fuel all the time .

intank is the best option for fuel at high pressure as these pumps push better than suck fuel .

some guys still use stock tank but use efi sender / pump combo and keep min 1/4 tank for lowest level and no problems .
 
sweetk30 said:
not for that . its the efi sender with pump down in the tank for the efi that the baffle is required . keeps fuel in the pump area to keep it sucking fuel all the time .

intank is the best option for fuel at high pressure as these pumps push better than suck fuel .

some guys still use stock tank but use efi sender / pump combo and keep min 1/4 tank for lowest level and no problems .
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Good.... Really don't want to swap out tank. I do have two tanks to sell if necessary but w would like to keep what I have.
 
I put an external pump on mine, mounted even with the bottom of the tank, and a 4 corner pickup system in the tank. Works great too.
 
Lots of options here.

You could just tune it up and run it.

You could hone the cylinders and polish the crank and put new rings and bearings in your current parts, like a total refresh.

Or you could bore it and get new pistons.

Or if you do need a new crank I would stroke it to 4.25" stroke.

It all depends on what you want to do and what condition the current parts are in.

Can you do a leakdown or compression check? That will give you an idea of the condition of the internals and what you have to deal with.

As for the crank and bores, you could first do a visual of the current bearings and journals, and the cross hatch and any upper ridge. Depending on that would determine if you need to go have them measured and checked or if you just run them.

Aluminum heads will be lighter and theoretically you can run a little more compression because they transfer the heat away better. But by far the biggest benefit is you won't have to go to the chiropractor after you bolt them on.

As for EFI vs carb, I agree with the guys, its not a max performance thing, its a driveability and throttle response in all types of weather and altitude thing. It usually make the engine feel more powerful in part throttle and normal driving conditions. A carb is usually either great when tuned for WOT power or when tuned for driveability. But the curve is hard to get perfect under all conditions, which is where the EFI shines.

You just need a different fuel pump and regulator. Both Edelbrock and Holley have a built in relay to turn the pump on and off for you. I sell Holley, Edelbrock, and FAST EFI, and it sounds from what you want to do the Edelbrock may be the best option for you. Each scenario is different.

I do have a ProFlo4 in stock for an Oval port BBC. It comes complete with the intake, MPFI injectors, throttle body, new distributor, etc. I also have coils in stock, new plug wires and your induction is completely new.

Holley sells a lot of fuel pump and regulator options to get your fuel system up and running. Did you use a suburban tank from the sounds of it?

Or if you want a new intake and carb we can do that to.

I would want a Hydraulic roller cam no matter what you do, so we also need to see what cam you have now, and if your timing chain is a double roller and if it looks snug or loose.

If you want to discuss it over the phone that may be faster. Whatever you feel like.
 
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@ZombieK5 I will tell you that if you like Quadrajet carbs, I can understand why you are leaning towards using one and keeping it more simple. I still have a a Q-jet on my big block in my '70 K10. It took some work to get it where it is now. When I went to the roller cam, the carb didn't like it. It worked great before that since it had the throttle shaft bushings replaced years before.
I ended up sending it to Sean Murphy Induction. He did a great job and all I had to do was minor adjustments afterwards. I did lean the primaries 2 steps after I got it back, but that was all I did besides adjusting it a little. I can get up to 12 mpg around town if I drive decent, but it will pull a low 16 second quarter mile time as well. (4800 ft elevation) I don't have too many complaints about it for what I do with the truck.
So my experience is that you could run into a problem with tuning a carb depending on the cam. My problem may have been partially due to the carb being from a small block, but as I said, it was fine until the roller cam.
Just my 2 pesos.
 
6872xtc said:
@ZombieK5 I will tell you that if you like Quadrajet carbs, I can understand why you are leaning towards using one and keeping it more simple. I still have a a Q-jet on my big block in my '70 K10. It took some work to get it where it is now. When I went to the roller cam, the carb didn't like it. It worked great before that since it had the throttle shaft bushings replaced years before.
I ended up sending it to Sean Murphy Induction. He did a great job and all I had to do was minor adjustments afterwards. I did lean the primaries 2 steps after I got it back, but that was all I did besides adjusting it a little. I can get up to 12 mpg around town if I drive decent, but it will pull a low 16 second quarter mile time as well. (4800 ft elevation) I don't have too many complaints about it for what I do with the truck.
So my experience is that you could run into a problem with tuning a carb depending on the cam. My problem may have been partially due to the carb being from a small block, but as I said, it was fine until the roller cam.
Just my 2 pesos.
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Thanks for your 2 pesos. Im taking all the advice and will make a decision after I figure out what I need to do for the engine. Once I decide I will need some advise from either you and the carb guys or the EFI guys.

Again, thanks for your words... Guys on this site have been fantastic.
 
If you do stick with a Quadrajet, that Edelbrock Quadrajet currently on it is a good Quadrajet, if I remember correctly.

As for the dome vs flat top, a flat top is better, but a big block has such a big combustion chamber, that you need a little dome, to keep the compression ratio up. You are better off with the small dome and the increased compression, than with a flat top and low compression, in your situation.

Iron vs aluminum heads, you have a great set of iron heads already. Get them off, and see what condition they are in, and what work has already been done to them.

Martin
 
So let's make this more interesting. Removed the transfer case today.

Turns out I have a Fkin CAST IRON cased NP205. That thing weighs 17 tons. everything was going great until I pulled it away from the transmission tailpiece and it threw up fluid all over the driveway. Thank God for kitty litter. Are the cast iron cased 205 transfer case is better than the aluminum ones? I know they weigh about a ton more.

I knew I had a 700r4 but mine has a sticker from the Builder / manufacturer. Does anybody know anything about "Art Carr" Remanufactured General Motors Transmissions?.

I should be conquering the removal of the transmission tomorrow and possibly the engine.

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Uhm............NP205s are always cast iron.

Maybe you are thinking NP203 or NP208.... or 241?



-G
 
ktmoutfront said:
Art car are the bees knees of transmissions. He is a personal friend of our family. He was building race transmissions before that was a thing. This truck just gets better every time you open something up.
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My issue is NOT knowing if it was an abused Tranny, if it has 200 or 20,000 miles on it. I'll drop the pan and see what I find
 
ktmoutfront said:
Art car are the bees knees of transmissions. He is a personal friend of our family. He was building race transmissions before that was a thing. This truck just gets better every time you open something up.
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If I find a serial number or other ID #, you think they can tell me more about the transmission? Specs, sale date, etc...?
 
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