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468 BB Chevy - What is this worth?

Great to see this thing coming together! This is going to be a very nice engine, you didn't skimp on anything for this application, you chose the better option for your engine at every choice. :waytogo:

I have to say I've never seen someone assemble one sitting vertical like that. I always use a stand so I can rotate it, it makes it easier to drop the crank, rods and pistons in without contacting anything you don't want to. Be cautious.
 
folkenheath said:
Great to see this thing coming together! This is going to be a very nice engine, you didn't skimp on anything for this application, you chose the better option for your engine at every choice. :waytogo:

I have to say I've never seen someone assemble one sitting vertical like that. I always use a stand so I can rotate it, it makes it easier to drop the crank, rods and pistons in without contacting anything you don't want to. Be cautious.
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Actually, you get a more exact torque this way. You are forcing downward (righty tighty) without any "give" from the stand moving left or right. Once the rods are in place it will go onto the stand.
 
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I would never torque with one arm only, if you aren't offsetting the force from your torque hand at the pivot point of the torque wrench with your other hand you are implying a diagonal twist and not a proper torque, even if the thing you are torqueing can't budge. This gets magnified if you have to use an extension, and is then even more important.

If done properly it doesn't matter where the block is, the torque at the fastener would be the same (the whole equal and opposite reaction deal). Although sometimes you do need to stand on the engine stand so you don't just rotate the whole thing on the floor.
 
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I may be the odd one out here, but I like to install the cam with the block standing up. Easy to find center without the gravity pulling it towards the bearings.
 
That would probably be easier just to install the cam I agree, however, the effort involved in flipping the whole thing back and forth would outweigh the benefit from my perspective. But whatever works for you is what matters.
 
Kinda always done it that way. Left hand on the torque wrench head, right hand does the work. Block doesn't budge and the process goes smoothly. Cam will also be installed with the block on the bench.
 
That's actually a neat idea, because you could access the flexplate area easier too. (I guess the flywheel for you Martin... ;) )

I'm just don't think I would trust 3 engine mount bolts to hold the whole weight of the engine on one side. It would have to be a custom bracket that went to both ends or something, which wouldn't be universal at all. And then you couldn't paint the block on the stand very easy either. However, the larger issue is, I like to rotate the block so each deck is flat when I drop the rods in, so I can more easily prevent the rod from dragging down the cylinder wall. And a side rotation wouldn't allow rotating that direction.
 
we trust 4 5/16 bolts or studs in aluminum to lift the whole engine in/out if using a carb lift plate .

but yes full weight and side load = a lot .
 
You are correct, although in the lift plate it's all straight tension in all 4 bolts, in the side mount the top bolts would be under shear and tension from the torque of the engine and the bottom would be under mostly shear, and the loads would be a lot higher. Not really a whole lot different than in the bellhousing. But it's not bolts I am worried about, its the side of the block is not made to take that much, the bellhousing is, which is why we put front and mid motor plates in to reduce the load on the block.

It might be fine, I just don't trust it that way.
 
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