CK5
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4L80E Trans Dip Stick & Tube
- Thread starter pomai
- Start date
urbex
1/2 ton status
At least on the 350, 400, 700, 4L60E and 4L80E, full mark should line up with the bottom of the pan lip on the trans case.
I have a Greg Ducato, Phoenix Transmission Products 4L80E/241c combo. these people are truly an American Class act, I'll explain later, but Scott from Phoenix Transmission Products who is a perfect example of the American professionalism from Phoenix Transmission Products wants me to mart the dip stick as, Quote "Your “full” fluid level on a 4L80E, when engine is warm, should be right at ¾” below mating surface of the case where the pan bolts on"
But when researching the full level on a 4L80E, they all say 1/4" above the mating surface of the case?
I'm going to do what Scott says to do!
urbex
1/2 ton status
"They" are missing an important detail in there - it's even with the pan lip, or UP TO 1/4" higher. The _correct_ procedure is to check with warm fluid, with a full level even with the pan lip. But if checked while hot, or if your driveway/road/whatever isn't perfectly level, it can be up to that 1/4" higher mark. Of course, everyone's idea of "warm" vs "hot" is going to differ too, lol, and I don't recall off the top of my head what GM's spec is now on temp. I've just always done 10-15 minutes of drive time around the block, and called it good.
3/4" down seems like you'd be running a lot closer of being too low...there's only about an inch between the low and full marks on these sticks, which equates to about a quart, and I know from experience my trans will start slipping pretty bad at 2 quarts low. I'm _guessing_, perhaps, that his recommendation was based on it being a 4x4 trans, and is trying to avoid too much fluid from getting up into the gear train at extreme angles, and causing oil aeration issues?
The other side is that with a deep pan, along with a filter sitting deeper, you can get lower levels in the pan without running into the risk of uncovering the filter. Not exactly the kind of situation that would give me the warm and fuzzy feelings, and not typically the reason for running a deep pan, but it _could_ be run like that.
I build all my own transmissions, but I'm not trying to pass myself off as any kind of pro trans guy. Everything I've ever seen/heard on these GM transmissions has been the same - full fluid level is even with the pan lip.
Why not just swap the O-rings?
Change the top of the stick, not the bottom. They usually attach to the top with a roll pin, so you can drill a new hole. They are stainless so be prepared to use carbide or something.
Make sure you're using a locking top stick and not the old style that can puke hot oil on your exhaust.
urbex
1/2 ton status
I seem to remember the last time I went hunting for those rings, it ended up being only a few dollars shy of just buying a whole new stick. Of course, that was a couple years ago, so it's entirely possible my memory may be a bit fuzzy on that one too, lol.
Wanted to up date my dip stick & tube progress.
I used the fill tube and level indicator below for my 88 K5 with 4L80E
GM Genuine Parts 15729870 Automatic Transmission Fluid Fill Tube
Genuine GM 15183801 Transmission Fluid Level Indicator
The full line mark on the level indicator is 1 inch below mating surface of the case, from there you can add the new mark on the indicator where you want to.
I used the fill tube and level indicator below for my 88 K5 with 4L80E
GM Genuine Parts 15729870 Automatic Transmission Fluid Fill Tube
Genuine GM 15183801 Transmission Fluid Level Indicator
The full line mark on the level indicator is 1 inch below mating surface of the case, from there you can add the new mark on the indicator where you want to.
