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4wd conversion Bolts

Babaganoosh

Babaganoosh

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I'm converting my 2wd to 4wd and I keep hearing use pinch nuts and flanged bolts nut I'm not sure on what type of material on the nut for the lock.

I have no idea how to buy hardware never had to. With these 2 links could someone help a noob out. :doah:

http://www.copperstate.com/ http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex
I would prefer the first link sense they are open on saturday. These are both local and I can visit them soon.
 
metal crimp nuts or stover nuts . NOT nylock every day stuff.

and 7/16 bolts as rivit hole is to big for 3/8" and just under 7/16" . better to drill out and run bigger.

and get grade 8 on all. and if no flange bolts ( washer built in to it ) get s.a.e. washers little smaller than regular washer to get same size needed . and grd 8 on these also.

if possible get bolt little longer to get you a little smooth shanke before threads start. it filles the hole up tight and less room for walking around under flex. and dont get to long as it wont let the bolt go tight if to much shanke.

course is fine but fine thread holds better loads = more surface area.
 
The all metal lock nuts linked above would work I assume? for the smooth shank I'm looking to have the threads start on the outside of the metal I'm looking to bolt together?
 
both look good to go.

in link to bolts the 2 pictured course is full thread if you look.

and fine has that smoth shanke section by the head. but dont get it to long smoth or you cant tighten bolt/nut 100%
 
Would it be ok if the smooth shank didn't go all the way to where the nut would hold against the frame?

Sorry for my stupidity, I just want this to be 100% safe going down the road. I even have researched the max torque for the bolts.
 
if you wana play it safe for you and still be fine get full thread.

but if you know the thickness of brackets and frame and all parts in the mix its nice to have the smooth section to fill the holes is all.
 
Ok, I think that is my best bet, I just want this to be done correctly and be safe.


Thanks for your help, you answered my questions and gave me the inside i was looking at the correct stuff.
 
Just an idea, sounds like you are already going down this road, but any reason not to just weld the brackets in place? Use the 7/16" bolts to hold it in place, weld it, remove the bolts, or just leave them.

I already did the rivet removal and 7/16" bolt swap on my entire frame, which turned out to be bent. When I find a straight frame, I'm leaving the rivets and welding the brackets in place. Not worth the time IMO.
 
Don't have access to a welder or the know how. If I knew how to weld I most likely wouldn't be going with leafs it would be a triangulated mess of a 4 link. :haha:
 
I know what you mean. I stripped a entire suburban on the brackets and now my c10's front end, next on the list is the rear spring hangers for the shackle flip. :doah:

I even burned up my Dads 3/8ths corded makita drill.
 
I found the fastest way to cut the rivets is an 4" (thin) cutoff wheel on an angle grinder to get most of the rivet head off, then hit the leftover with an aggressive grinding wheel on another angle grinder. Once the rivets get glowing hot, the metal starts coming off pretty quick. Tried drilling as well as the chisel, neither is as fast or seemed to work as good as the cutoff/wheel.

Surprised I didn't burn any of the grinders up either.
 
I have been using a grinde,r and grinding the heads down then drill into them to relieve some pressure then hammer them out with a punch.
 
I grind them flush, take a large punch and a 5lb sledge, most of them come out really easy. A few were stubborn, just took a few more hits. If the frame wasn't on sawhorses most of the rivets would likely pop out more quickly.

Whats up with those cast iron front leaf spring mounts though? Rivets do NOT come out of those things without serious work. :)
 
I picked up the bolts today. I got 7/16-20in fine thread hex head cap screws plated in yellow zinc. I wasn't able to get flange bolts so I got hardened washers to go along with the grade 8 all metal locking nuts also plated in zinc.

My next question I'm coming up with mixed max torque specs.

http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html
This link says 85LB.-FT. dry then 68LB.-FT. lubed but it says for yellow zinc subtract 15% to achieve 72.25 LB.-FT..

http://www.kimballmidwest.com/catalog/MarketingText/Grade 8 Torque Chart.pdf
This one says 78LB.-FT. :dunno:

http://www.auto-ware.com/techref/bolttorque.htm
This one says 70LB.-FT.

As you can tell I'm at a loss I don't know what the max torque is or who to believe. I can't believe there is so much thought into a bolt. :eek1:
 
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