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4wheel discs, FOUND PERFECT MASTER CYLINDER!!

muddybuddy

muddybuddy

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hey all, ive got a 1ton k5 with 4wheel discs on 42s. originally i replaced my stock master cylinder with one off a k20 but that was still inadaquate. so i went to advance auto parts and started looking up master cylinders of various truck. im actually going to start working there within the week, and i know everyone so they didnt care if i ordered and then returned them haha. i wanted the p30 one, but i dont have hydro-boost. then i found it! it actually looks bigger than the p30 van master. Part Number 102754, its off a 1999 c3500 with 4wheel disc. i just installed it, (the lines are reverse) and wow what a difference, i cant even press the pedal to the floor anymore, and can lock up if i want to. just thought i would share my findings, as i know alot of people are looking for the perfect solution after goin to 1ton with discs.
 
Im willing to give that a try since it sounds promising in the never ending search for better brakes.
 
Go here and add it to the list please... Nice find, post back after a few weeks let use know how it's working:waytogo:
 
think they would take my 70's master as a core???

hmmmmm well my truck stops ok right now.. maybe a upgrade for the future.....

just not sure about the plastic master.... Like that old school metal :D
 
yes, i have d60/14b with disc conversion and it works perfectly. the resovoirs are about equal in size and are very large. i know everyone who works at the parts store, so they took my 88 as the core, my guess is they probably wouldnt know the difference, since you return the core after u purchase so they wont see it side by side.
 
you think this would be overkill for 1/2 ton brakes? I wanted to swap discs onto my 12b, and replace the master cylinder... ?
 
cost is about $80 or so.

um, it might be a little overkill for 1/2ton, i can stop the 42s pretty well. but if your planning on eventually goin bigger then go for it. worse case senario, dont press the pedal down all the way:p:
 
Good question here for anyone thats an expert on brake design; can there be "too much" master cylinder?
I wouldn't mind coming to a screeching stop.
 
Good find! Now when you say lines are reverse do you mean threads or just lines are switched around.
 
muddybuddy said:
cost is about $80 or so.

um, it might be a little overkill for 1/2ton, i can stop the 42s pretty well. but if your planning on eventually goin bigger then go for it. worse case senario, dont press the pedal down all the way:p:
Click to expand...
I am having a problem with the fronts locking up in mud or on hills and the rears not locking up at all.. But discs on the rear might correct that, along with a new vaccum booster and mc. :dunno:
 
BizeeB65 said:
I am having a problem with the fronts locking up in mud or on hills and the rears not locking up at all.. But discs on the rear might correct that, along with a new vaccum booster and mc. :dunno:
Click to expand...
Got a proportioning valve?
 
I'm a firm believer in an adjustable proportioning valve to dial-in the brake performance. Higher center of gravity, off-road rubber, and altered brake components all change the factory brake front to rear bias.

Driving on pavement with a high amount of tire coefficient (traction) will provide a LOT of weight transfer to the front wheels during braking. The requirement in this situation would be to prevent the rears from locking (before the front) and swapping ends during "panic" manuevers.

Braking on a low traction surface, has very different requirements. Weight is not transferred to the same degree (as high tractive surface). The rears could be biased so the they handle much more of the braking load.
 
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