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5.13's with 35's??

It would work better for me because with 35's (really 33.5" true height) the cruise RPM is around 2100-2300RPM and my motor is just barely starting its good midrange power there. If I had 4.88's my motor would be more in the heart of the midrange power and would cruise better.

Harley
 
Ran 5:13's on my j**p with 33's. Could pull the front wheels 3 feet in the air (got pics). NO TOP END what so ever though. 4:56's with 35's puts you in between freeway and off road range. 4:88's more to the offroad. 5:13's may really stress the driveline and axles among other things. I broke a few axles...
I'm putting 4:88's with my 37's. just my humble opinion.
 
I think I have decided that the 4.88's are a good comprosime. I plan to step up to 38's or so when I get a D60 so they will work well with the m also I think. plus they are a little stronger than the 4.56's.
 
my 72 C30

My 72 c30 has 5.14 gears w/ stock 8.00-16.5 tires, of course it was a wrecker at one time. Talk about no top end.
 
85mudblazin said:
I think I have decided that the 4.88's are a good comprosime.

What gears does the 14FF have in it now? What gears does your truck have now?

If you start looking for a D60 now, you might be able to get away with only buying one set of gears instead of two. ;)

Of course, if you gear too low you can swap in a 283 - they spin like mad :rotfl:
 
I have 4.88's and 36's or 35's depending what on the truck, but its borderline being too low geared, and I have a 700R4 tranny. My biggest set back with the gears on the freeway is that my engine doesnt have the balls to push my truck down the freeway at 70, so i think if your truck has a little more HP than my truck it should do great, and you'll love the off road ability of it. Oh and 5.13's will work, but your gas mileage will suffer. With OD I think the cruise RPM at 70 is only a 400 or 500 RPM between 4.56's and 5.13's. I was going to go with 5.13's but they werent available for my rear axle.
 
I have a pretty healthy GM crate 350 that is about 1 yr old.
Ill probably just go with the 4.88's if I need more low gearing ill just save up for a doubler:D
 
u2slow said:
What gears does the 14FF have in it now? What gears does your truck have now?

If you start looking for a D60 now, you might be able to get away with only buying one set of gears instead of two. ;)

Of course, if you gear too low you can swap in a 283 - they spin like mad :rotfl:
Ive been looking for a good deal on a D60 for about 6 months not to mention I dont have the $$ to get one.

The 14bff has 3.73 gears now and my blazer has 3.08 gears in it
 
85mudblazin said:
Ive been looking for a good deal on a D60 for about 6 months not to mention I dont have the $$ to get one.

But you have $$$ for two sets of 4.88 gears plus install?
 
I run 5.29s in my dd with 35s(81 toy 4x4). I only have a 4cyl. But mine in 5th gear(OD) I cruise down the freeway just under 3k rpms around 75 mph. I like the lower gears. It makes the truck get going faster. My toy is faster than a stock one due to the gears.

Dan
 
well I am doing all the installation my self and the gears for the 14bff will stay in there so I am not sure what you are talking baout there.
all I will be out is gears and a master install kit for the 10b which I can get for $221 which is alot cheaper than the D60 plus I can go wheelin:confused:
 
If you found a D60 (w/3.73) you would get a 'free' ratio improvement.

Always bothers me to change out parts that aren't broken (3.73 for 14FF) Also bothers me to be buying/installing new parts for temporary use (4.88 for 10b)

You'd still probably want to go to the deeper gears, you'd just be rolling around on the 1-ton axles sooner, with less chance of untimely breakage. ;)
 
how would I be on 1 ton axles sooner by having to start saving up for the D60 when I could have just got the gears for the 10b and the 14bff and be ready to wheel while I save up for the D60.

Sorry I just dont have $1000 laying around to get a D60, I am in high school so money isnt porring in :xmas:
 
Don't let everyone try and tell you you need a D60. Not everyone needs a D60. It all depends but if you are running 35's then you probably don't need a D60. If you are breaking frontend parts all the time with 35's its because you need to learn to control your right foot or you wheel in the east and need lots of wheelspeed.

Believe it or not if you don't bash and thrash your stuff hard with 35's a 10 bolt front will last just fine with 35's in most cases. You will probably break something here and there but it can work just fine. I do it, and alot of guys here in AZ do it and they rockcrawl there junk, and rockcrawling doesn't have a good rep. for being easy on parts.

I say run what you got till you break it often enough or bad enough to warranty an upgrade. I am not anti-D60 buy sofar I don't need one so I don't waste my time wishing I had one or dreaming big dreams about laying down alot of $$$ to get one.

Harley
 
I concur.

And I was rooting for 4.56's with 35's because i don't have an overdrive.
If i had a 700r4 like you guys i'd probably have gone with 4.88's or hell 5.13's :grin:
 
Wow, Tim said something semi-intelligent for once. D60's are for people running bigger than 37's or people that dont know how to drive. I run a weanie 10 bolt in my blazer and flat out beat the hell out of it. ive tried to break it! and I cant, so I dont know, oh and its basically setup as a full time spool right now cause the solenoid for my ARB is missing, and the locker is hooked straight to the compressor.
 
Thats the who reason why I just want to get my 14bff in there and go wheelin, I know with the 35's it will be OK, I am not going to get bigger tires until I go 1 ton so I might as well re-gear the 10b and go have some fun even if I do break a few axle shafts:grin:
Thanks guys for all the support:saweet:
 
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