I have hp tuners, used it alot on my 408 stroker in my 2500hd. Never did a whole lot tho, it was with a tuner. So I have that, so its a plus.
Its a 2004 5.3
I'd of never thought of keeping all the bolts, great idea..
2004 makes it easier. You have the later crank. So use a 6.0l flywheel. I used "
BRUTE POWER/PERFECTION CLUTCH 502776 " You don't have to use this exact part, but the application will work. You will need to buy flywheel bolts, just get ARP and be done. Your flex plate bolts wont be long enough. Be sure to use Locktite on the bolts, those holes go though to oil and will leak without threads sealed. That flywheel will need metric pressure plate bolts, buy those too. You will need to knock out the alignment pins from the flywheel. then drill out your standard sized pressure plate holes a little larger to fit the metric bolts. Clutch will just be whatever 12" clutch you want that fits your truck application. standard 10 spline gm clutch.
Pilot bearing will be a "
GM 12557583" This is the only pilot bearing application that will work. All other manual LS engines used the deep crank hole, your input shaft wont reach that far, this pilot bearing uses the first, larger hole that your input shaft will reach
When you do your DBW setup, be sure to use the pedal and TAC module. those two parts are a matched set part number wise. so just use what you have. I recommend keeping DBW and not going back to DBC. DBW lets you setup cruise control with just 4 wires.
AS for HP tuners, lots of youtube videos out there showing how to remove VATS and the basics. you can remove torque management, and speed up the throttle response a bit too fairly easily. It will cost you $100 worth of credits to unlock that Vin on your tuner though.
Other stuff you havent mentioned. Your power steering hose you have now will just work fine with the new engine. If you get a driver side battery tray, you can use the factory LS battery cables for your battery, if not you will have to make your own, they are incorporated into the engine harness. It doesn't take much to cool a 5.3, the radiator you have now will probably be fine, or buy an aluminum one, whatever you do. DO NOT BUY A GRIFFIN. If you do use a non LS radiator. The upper radiator hose off of a GMT800 truck will help with getting the outlet to the driver side.
When you tune your engine, you can go speed density and ditch the mass airflow meter if you want, but you will need to put a IAT in the intake if you do. there is a spot to drill and tap the intake manifold for it. Is your truck vacuum brakes or hydro boost? if vacuum, was the donor vehicle Vacuum? if not you will need to buy the GM vacuum nipple that plugs into the back of the intake. Do not block off the heater hoses on an LS. If your not running your heater, just loop them back on themselves. they need to flow.
- ARP 134-2201 flywheel bolts
- ARP 330-2802 pressure plate bolts
As for the fuel system, you can buy Walbro 255 pump #GCA758-2 which will drop into your fuel tank like factory. then you can run a corvette filter/reg unit and plumb it up front. There are complete kits to do this or buy your own fittings. Here is a list of what I used I converted everyting to -6 and plumbed it with pushlock hose..
- 16mm x1.5 to -6 9894DBJERL (Tank pressure)
- 14x1.5 to -6 Russell 640820 (Tank Return)
- x2 3/8 Push lock to -6 Russell 640853 (filter pressure in/rail pressure in)
- 5/16 to -6 Russell 640863 (Filter return)
- 3/8 male to -6 Russell 640940 (filter out)
