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5.3L long block

Making some progress. Got everything buttoned up with new sensors, etc. only big issue was that the oil pump pickup tube bolt requires 9 ft/lbs but my new wrench only goes down to 10lbs. But when I tried lowering it to 9, the bolt started stripping because the wrench wouldn’t “click” at that low torque. Luckily I stopped before it destroyed the threads in the new oil pump and I was able to chase it with a tap and put some lock tire on it just to be safe.

Even cleaned up the intake. Amazing how light a plastic intake is vs the old aluminum version.

Will be reinstalling it next week of the weather holds up. 14916CFA-3230-4B4A-8727-2A7938A6AFF8.jpeg3E0FBD61-BDA9-44DC-8F1D-0369D1023EC6.jpeg2DECFF32-CC54-4D25-887D-EAB5F022F0E8.jpeg
 
Looking good!
Can't tell from the pic, did you rtv those knock sensors?
 
flatland said:
Looking good!
Can't tell from the pic, did you rtv those knock sensors?
Click to expand...
I did RTV the covers. Hoping that’s not a bad thing. One of my old sensors was rusted pretty good. Are those covers supposed to be rubber originally? These are rock solid now.
 
Did you put gaskets back in?

Very, very little RTV required on these engines. Really just half a toothbrush worth at the corners of where different gaskets touch. Almost all rubber coated metal/plastic gaskets. It may be important that the gasket is in there as a "spacer".
 
1977k5 said:
Did you put gaskets back in?

Very, very little RTV required on these engines. Really just half a toothbrush worth at the corners of where different gaskets touch. Almost all rubber coated metal/plastic gaskets. It may be important that the gasket is in there as a "spacer".
Click to expand...
The only RTV I used was on the four corners of the pan gasket and a light coating on those two knock sensor wire plug covers. Everything else got new rubber gaskets. That’s one of the coolest features of these new motors…the gaskets actually seal.
 
bp71k5 said:
The only RTV I used was on the four corners of the pan gasket and a light coating on those two knock sensor wire plug covers. Everything else got new rubber gaskets. That’s one of the coolest features of these new motors…the gaskets actually seal.
Click to expand...
Scratch that. I also used some under the bolt heads of the side main bearing caps. My rebuild book seemed to say that was only needed if reusing the old bolts. Do new bolts have a seal coating on them that does the same thing or is my book off? I did notice some of the bolts have this orange coating under the head and so I assume that was a seal.

The same book said the smaller stock head bolts also needed thread sealant, but that if I wasn’t using stock head bolts that I should follow the directions that come with the bolts. Since I used ARP head bolts, those require a thread lubricant and a different torque settings. I’m not sure why one type of bolt would need sealant but not the other. I’m thinking the washers that come with the ARP bolts may seal better than the stock bolts that have integrated washer heads?
 
Not sure on the bolts, but rtv is recommended for the knock sensors. Good job!
 
I’m starting to read that I should have primed the oil pump when it was still on the stand? I should have don’t a bit more research as my plan was to pull the fuel pump relay and just turn the motor over a bit to prime it. Anyone with some knowledge either way?
 
Ideally, yes you should have pulled the plug on the side and put some oil in there.

I've done quite a few without doing anything special. Crank it a little bit before firing and it usually builds pressure right away.

Did you use regular oil or assembly lube on the bearings?
 
toomany said:
Ideally, yes you should have pulled the plug on the side and put some oil in there.

I've done quite a few without doing anything special. Crank it a little bit before firing and it usually builds pressure right away.

Did you use regular oil or assembly lube on the bearings?
Click to expand...
Assembly lube. I may be able to pull the plug
 
Well. Wasn’t able to read pressure on the dash gauge when turning the motor over. So I was able to add some oil through the plug port on the side of the motor. Was able to get a few turns more before the battery died. Gauge still reads 0, but when I take the key out of the ignition, the gauge slowly goes up to ~20psi and stays there. Weird.

Got the battery on a charger and will try again tomorrow. I wonder if I can plumb in a second pressure gauge just to double check things. I guess I can pull a valve cover and check that way to make sure the sender isn’t bad.
 
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I will admit both engines I have done I just pulled the fuel pump relay and cranked it. Both had oil psi instant like it just had a oil change.
 
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