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513 gears w/ 35" tires?

This post is swaying me back towards 5.13's. I thought I had decided on 4.88's since I am taking this truck to school with me in Jan.(12 hour road trip). I am running a 350,700R4,NP241, D60, 14BFF, and 38x13R16 TSL's, or at least I will be once I get it all installed. Do you think 4.88's would get any better gas mileage around town? Or maybe the 5.13's would since it would have an easier time getting going?
 
I doubt you will see much, if any, difference between 5.13s and 4.88s in the city...prob wouldn't see much diff on the highway either. Might as well get 5.13s to get a tad more torque out of it.
 
highrlr said:
This post is swaying me back towards 5.13's. I thought I had decided on 4.88's since I am taking this truck to school with me in Jan.(12 hour road trip). I am running a 350,700R4,NP241, D60, 14BFF, and 38x13R16 TSL's, or at least I will be once I get it all installed. Do you think 4.88's would get any better gas mileage around town? Or maybe the 5.13's would since it would have an easier time getting going?

5.13 2 reasons . 1 you will have 5.13 gears and 2 you will have better chances at eating the ricers.:p:
 
hmm, i was goin to swap in 410 gears with my 3/4ton swap, but this is starting to convince me to go with 513s. especially since the d44 i have needs alot more work than i thought, and id have to regear the 10b to match the rear hehe.

how would 513s hold up in a 10 bolt for the front, open with 35-36s?
 
muddybuddy said:
how would 513s hold up in a 10 bolt for the front, open with 35-36s?

It's not the 5.13 gears you'd have to be worried about, it's the downstream parts - the inner and outer axleshafts, the axleshaft U-joints, and the hubs.
HOWEVER - If you keep the front diff open, you'll probably be OK. But if you limited-slip or lock that front 10B, you'll be getting intimately familiar with axleshaft/U-joint/hub swaps on the trail...
 
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