Hrmm not really. Im sure a shop around here would make one up but i make my own junk so i have not checked into it. There are quite a few shops in the area
CK5
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52" front spring help
- Thread starter 78Chev
- Start date
no i did not move my front rear mount forward, i enlarged the hole and used the DIY4X upgrade ones. as in my pic, but the pic is with the 48" springs
If you put in a stock 52 and got zero lift from it the 52's were shot. You said in a previous post, when you had them in they were flat or near negative in arch. Those springs are wasted.
The pic with the 48" spring above. Shackle angle is basically non existant. Straight up and down. Imagine for a moment, a 4" longer spring. 2" longer in the front and 2" longer on the rear side. If you maintain your current axle position, you'll get an improvement on the shackle angle. Your front eye position will have to go forward to accomplish this but easy enough, you have the room. It may not be an ideal angle but then again it may be an ideal angle.
You could also go to a 56" spring. Same game, except now you'll be 4" longer spring on the rear half, you may end up with to extreme a shackle angle. You could counter this by pushing the axle forward with your leaf spring forward mounting position which of course would in turn take the shackle along with it bringing the angle more in line.
Without the overload, you'll recieve less overall lift. Mostly because you've taken out a 3/4" thick leaf. You will however kill the springs in much less time if you take the rig out and use it. The overload doesn't effect the ride much until you flatten the leaf pack out enough for the upper leaves to start engaging it. Alternately you can shorten it. Less of it hanging down to grab hold of stuff. Still provides some of the benefits of keeping the spring from flexing to far. You'd want to round the end and make a nice clean burr free edge.
i am going to go with the 56" in front since i have the adjustability with the mounting holes to give me good shackle angle, my only question was if my current setup in the rear would be level with putting 56's in front or if i would need to put zeros or something else in the back to bring it up to level.
so to update. i put a newer set of 56" springs in front finally. left the whole pack and the overload as i want more flex but also need to be driveable and not wear the springs out too fast. new issue now tho. with the front mount moved all the way foreward the rear shackles are now completely back and touching the frame. only fix i can think of would be to cut out my front mount and re-weld it farther foreward or make a boomerang type shackle to extend it more aft and clear the frame. any thoughts on this?
owenst7
1/2 ton status
Just to clarify, I'm understanding what you're saying to be that the rear eye of the front spring is contacting the bottom of the frame. If that's the case:
Moving the shackle eye on the frame forward will actually make the problem worse by increasing your shackle angle.
You have two options:
1) A longer shackle. This will decrease shackle angle and it will lower the eye of the spring in relation to the frame. It will also allow the suspension to travel more given the same amount of force. I would be wary of going more than about 6.5" long on the shackle though, 7.25" seems to be about the maximum that anyone ever wants to go. The vertical distance from the frame bushing to the eye of the spring will directly relate to the amount of deflection of that bushing, i.e. the amount of "panning" motion of the axle under the frame. The total shackle length will obvious play a big part in that leverage, but because of the nature of leaf-sprung suspension, you could probably get away with a longer shackle if you had a greater shackle angle.
To illustrate this better, if you had a 6" long shackle that was angled backward (like it should be) like this: \ , you would have less panning motion due to bushing deflection than if your shackle angle was completely vertical like this: | . In that sense, since you have a good angle on your shackle, a longer shackle might not cause any issues with panning.
2) Move the frame eye backward, towards the floorboards. This will have the effect of increasing the vertical distance between the spring eye and the frame. This obviously becomes difficult due to the location of the body mount. I have seen some people move the spring bushing to inside of the body mount bracket, but that would probably be too far back in your situation and would probably severely reduce the droop your suspension has.
Post some pictures if you can. I'm curious to see exactly how everything is fitting as geometry can be difficult to discuss over the internet.
to clarify when i was talking about moving the front mount foreward i was meaning the very front mount that does not have the shackles, not the FUSH mount in the back. any thoughts on the boomerang type shackles? ill get a picture in a few mins and post it also
hrmmm.
\It looks to me your front hole for the spring isnt as far forward as most.
I think you are back about an inch from were most end up.
i took a pic of mine.
\
\It looks to me your front hole for the spring isnt as far forward as most.
I think you are back about an inch from were most end up.
i took a pic of mine.
\
Ouch, only thing you can do is move the hanger further forward, or better yet, run shorter springs.
All I need is some pictures of the Abomb mounted and it will go online. If you guys got some pics you don't mind me using, post them up or email them to me.
You could order one. There will still be a lead time though.
Do I have the A Bomb? I forget.
Dude, that's funny, I was just going to PM you to send pics to Kert of your A-Bomb. You need to get your truck on his site....like I did.
Kert, replied in the bumper center thread. But I will send you some pics of the bumper center. On and off the rig. $50.00 per pic being used per month for a minimum of 72 months and a minimum of 5 pics on the website! Just kidding. Email tomorrow.
