52 inch spring swap question(suggestion)

[K5er4Life]

Okay here is my question, I have hysteer on my rig and the draglink and the tie rod are pretty close on full compression. If 52's up front move the axle forward 2" and then use a zero rate to move it back an 1.5", it still seems that the two rods would hit, the pitman arm already rubs the tie rod under full compression, the additional 0.5" forward could mean trouble. So how is it working out for the guys that have hysteer?

Sorry really dont mean to hijack but does anyone here have highsteer and 52's? I have the same dilema I want to run 52's but I am afraid that the draglink and pitman arm will contact. Oh and you knw what you dont want that truck, those axles are fruitay. You might as well give the thing up for lost and give it to me. Sorry my jealousy rage is over now, I like really dig that rig you got there.

 

[DougK20]

Didnt you look at the picture?

Yeah, but you blended them so well I looked right over them

 

[perp]

Sorry really dont mean to hijack but does anyone here have highsteer and 52's? I have the same dilema I want to run 52's but I am afraid that the draglink and pitman arm will contact. Oh and you knw what you dont want that truck, those axles are fruitay. You might as well give the thing up for lost and give it to me. Sorry my jealousy rage is over now, I like really dig that rig you got there.

for my 52" swap i am chnging my ORD high steer arms for WFO high steer arms. the Drag link stays in front of the axle while the tie rod goes behind so no interference between the two. LINK

 

[K5er4Life]

for my 52" swap i am chnging my ORD high steer arms for WFO high steer arms. the Drag link stays in front of the axle while the tie rod goes behind so no interference between the two. LINK

I wish I would have bought those arms but I just bought the ord ones about a month and a half ago and I really dont want to drop the cash on new arms.

 

[snoman87]

I too am interested in the 52' swap while keeping the axle in the stock location. Really just want to get a bit of a lift and a much better ride. I'll maybe use a zero rate in the future to move it forward 1.5" if required. It's important for me to keep the bumper mounting area stock, to limit customization for furure bumpers.

Doesn't look too hard hack the rivets off and pound that hanger out, then rebolt it under the rad suppor and re-enforce it ... however the two surfaces are curved the opposite directions. How would you suggest compensating for this ... heat and a BFH (Big F'in Hammer)?

 

[MTMike]

Everyone who is considering this swap, really REALLY should consider why they want it.

52's in the front are INSANELY flexible, and because of this, they offer a smooth ride. Moving the axle forward with springs as flexible as these has 2 very important benefits.... 1) Keep the tires out of the firewall... and 2) Give the driveshaft a little extra length to keep the angles a little lower.

Unless the truck is driven 100% on the street and the most off roading it see is a gravel road, you will probably be ok if you keep the axle in stock location. But, if that's the extent of the trucks use, 52's and the mods that are required to make it work (such as higher shock mounts and some form of steering system that's not stock) are a lot of work for what you'd get. Even if you dont go out climbing RTI ramps with it, when you get onto a trail, there will be obstacles that will force limitations in the suspension setup (such as a tire being stuffed into the firewall) that you will encounter without moving the axle forward.

With stock 52's, axle moved ~3" forward, 3" body lift, 38.5" swampers and minor fendor trimming, and flexed out pretty far, my tire was 2" away from contacting fender. In addition, it rides like a caddilac down the trail and on the street. The truck looks no different, with crossover- handles awesome, and my approach angle is improved by a significant amount. So I ask, why NOT move it forward?

Mike

 

[perp]

Everyone who is considering this swap, really REALLY should consider why they want it.

I second that!
lots of work and money that could be MORE usefull other places (like frt/rear lockers, gearing, roll cage). i am going with 52 because I want the axle forward and i want the articulation, but this is one of the upgrades I am doing now (near the end of the build) because i already adressed other needs first

 

[snoman87]

everyone puts diffing priority on mods....

for example I have a K5 Jimmy frame that's getting all done up 56's front/63's rear but first I want to lift the 1T CC for some bigger tires and there is no sense spending cash on lift springs when I have a set from the Jimmy sitting in my back yard!!!!!!

 

[neverendingproject]

so is it possible to run the swap without aftermarket steering stuff or different shock mounts? like snoman87 else said, i just want lift and smooth ride.

 

[BozoWise]

Crossover steering is REQUIRED. You can find pics for the swap in my signature and buildup post. You can also reference http://coloradok5.com/52inchspringswap.shtml

 

[MTMike]

so is it possible to run the swap without aftermarket steering stuff or different shock mounts? like snoman87 else said, i just want lift and smooth ride.

Then look at Tuff Country EZ ride springs or BDS springs. 52's require a lot of work, and cause a lot of 'prerequisite mods', and cost alot of $ for "just lift & smooth ride"

 

[BadDog]

Given what you've already been through, I don't think going with 52s is going to be a daunting task.

Mounting that bracket under the body mount will be fine as long as you don't try to just bolt it in there or something. Mine is mounted just like you suggest. I took a 16 lb sledge and beat the curved bottom to match the spring bracket (swinging that monster UP was "fun" I'll tell you!). I then bolted it in with G8 bolts, washers and crimp nuts including under the frame rail. Next I welded the brackets together. And finally I built my front cross member which is notched into the frame rails and is the most forward portion of my truggy. That cross member is also welded to the spring brackets. It ain't goin' no where! You could probably tie in with your cross member that the anti-wrap mounts to in order to control tortional loads as well (like my cross member/bumper does).

All that said, if all you really want is ride improvements, why not just change the shackle angle and maybe swap some leafs around? Doing nothing but changing the shackle angle by relocating the top mount makes a HUGE difference in ride and droop without all the rest of that work...

 

[DougK20]

so is it possible to run the swap without aftermarket steering stuff or different shock mounts?

No, I've tried. You also forgot driveshaft & brake lines. Oh, and don't forget the new centerpins, bushings, zero-rates, shackles, shims, possible u-bolts, and drill bits! The 52's ended up being the most expensive thing I've done so far! I got the springs for free, but it cost me $2500 to get full use outta them

 

[boydfoose]

lots of things to convert - bummer

 

[obijuan]

how did you read 57 replies to all those threads in two minutes?
slow down chacho!

 

[boydfoose]

play nice now

 

[obijuan]

who are you and what are your intentions?

 

[BoondocK5]

play nice now

This is absolutely NOT Pirate4X4. Tone it down a bit there n00b!