52" spring swap

[CharlieC]

Giving some thought to doing the above, want to make sure I've got it right...

I have a D44 up front, Crossover steering, Sway bar with drop brackets up front and ORD disconnects at the springs. Currently has somebody's 4" lifted springs (they look like springs, but I'm pretty certain they don't actually flex) I installed a long time ago and a DIY4X Easy Inch to move the axle forward to get the tires off the back of the fender in turns.

My reasons for considering the swap is better ride quality and I need about another inch to level it out, a bit high in the rear after 3" EZ Rides and Shackle Flip. I was about to pull the trigger on some EZ Rides for front, but all of the commentary I came across seems to say they don't really ride that much different than stock. The 52" install seems pretty straightforward.

See any issues doing so with what I have installed? I haven't driven it yet since the Crossover install as I also swapped in a tilt column I need to change the ign. switch, maybe the ride will be OK without the sway bar and I can lose that, we'll see. Any reason not to do this and go with the EZ Rides instead as it would be quicker/easier to do.

Thanks
Charlie

 

[K85 Octane]

Sway bar and crossover? Got a picture of that?
I would keep the sway bar with the 52s if you plan to use it more on road than anything. I’m fine with the way mine drives, but she rolls and kinda does her own thing while driving, might be considered “undrive-able” by some. She’s soft

Make sure you have the right brackets for the swap and go for it. Get ORD the correct weight so they can make it right.

 

[nvrenuf]

I would keep the sway bar with the 52s if you plan to use it more on road than anything. I’m fine with the way mine drives, but she rolls and kinda does her own thing while driving, might be considered “undrive-able” by some. She’s soft

Everyone considering a 52" swap needs to hear this! I would say the same of my Blazer.

 

[K85 Octane]

Also slooooooow shock valving. 5125s won’t cut it but the 7100s have slower valve choices. It helps. I have them on the front and looking to change out the rears to them as well.

 

[nvrenuf]

Also slooooooow shock valving. 5125s won’t cut it but the 7100s have slower valve choices. It helps. I have them on the front and looking to change out the rears to them as well.

How well does this match up to the Bilsteins that ORD sells?

 

[83ChevyK5Blazer]

They are 5125's I think, they just order them valved different from what you can get off the shelf.

 

[Blue85]

Giving some thought to doing the above, want to make sure I've got it right...

I have a D44 up front, Crossover steering, Sway bar with drop brackets up front and ORD disconnects at the springs. Currently has somebody's 4" lifted springs (they look like springs, but I'm pretty certain they don't actually flex) I installed a long time ago and a DIY4X Easy Inch to move the axle forward to get the tires off the back of the fender in turns.

My reasons for considering the swap is better ride quality and I need about another inch to level it out, a bit high in the rear after 3" EZ Rides and Shackle Flip. I was about to pull the trigger on some EZ Rides for front, but all of the commentary I came across seems to say they don't really ride that much different than stock. The 52" install seems pretty straightforward.

See any issues doing so with what I have installed? I haven't driven it yet since the Crossover install as I also swapped in a tilt column I need to change the ign. switch, maybe the ride will be OK without the sway bar and I can lose that, we'll see. Any reason not to do this and go with the EZ Rides instead as it would be quicker/easier to do.

Thanks
Charlie

Really, nobody can give you advice on this until you explain the setup you have. In general, crossover steering and front sway bar cant' co-exist. If you have an aftermarket sway bar, that's weird to have spent that kind of money and still have Rough Country springs or whatever. If there is a swaybar, it's possible it's set up wrong, causing binding and most of your ride problem. So we need more information, preferably pictures.

You will find a lot of custom ORD spring recommendations here and I am part of that team sometimes, but the prices do continue to rise (like everything else, I suppose). But before you do front 52's, add up all the costs and work associated (Obtain springs, B52's, custom hangers, new upper shackle mounts, EZ-inch or similar to move the axle forward, etc.) and compare that to a pair of springs that does everything + some U-bolts. Also consider if it will fit under whatever front bumper you have now, or change the approach angle. Also consider that if you really wheel the truck those front 52's will get worn out a lot faster than the high-leaf-count ORDs.

I don't think there is anything inherently unstable about front 52's (although I have never run them). I think it's just a matter of spring rate and the softer they are, the more body roll and the harder it is to keep the thing pointed where you want. So a really soft custom spring would "handle" as bad as a 52" spring, theoretically. Soft, long-travel is great on trails, but a handful on the road. If you really can run a swaybar that could help a lot. The truth is, there are always compromises with leaf springs.

 

[cheavyk10]

Off Road Design has had a sway bar out for a few years that works with leaf springs and crossover steering.

 

[Blue85]

Off Road Design has had a sway bar out for a few years that works with leaf springs and crossover steering.

Correct. It's just a lot of $$ and work, compared to the stock swaybars, which people are scrapping

 

[6872xtc]

I watched a K5 with 52s pull the front driveshaft apart at the slip on a flat slab of sandstone in Moab, by simply backing up and hitting the brakes at a crawl.

Don't forget about that in the parts list.
For comparison, I pulled my 3.5" travel slip joint apart with ORD 47's in double low.

I got a custom driveshaft built after that, but I think that more slip travel would be needed for 52s.

 

[83ChevyK5Blazer]

I've been back and forth with this swap over the years, I currently have tuff country ez rides. They ride much better than stock and way better than my previous rough country springs.

My reading has pointed out that the swap nets alot of droop, resulting in needing a long travel driveshaft.
To get caster in check, I've seen long shackles, and that can result in death wobble and a side to side feeling with the steering.
With use they seem to sag out quickly, I've read that properly set bump stops they can last longer.
With the swap, you need front mounts, like diy4x b-52, or push the factory mounts forward. For the rear, swap to the bigger bushings and move them forward. Then ez inches, and steering which you have. Plus long brake lines.

 

[jake 03]

I did 52s on my suburban and while they are soft,properly valved shocks make all the difference. I used fox shocks and ford towers. It took a couple of tries to the get the shock valving right but it drives surprisingly good and rides great.

 

[K85 Octane]

How well does this match up to the Bilsteins that ORD sells?

Dunno
But 14” travel 5125s come in like 2 valve choices. Take the slowest, higher number, and start looking at the 7100s. Find a valve choice next slowest or a couple steps slower. I chose 7100 for the way they mount and slower valving. I have 56” rear springs flipped around longer, it rides pretty good with 5125s off the shelf but as those fade, I will go to the 7100s.

 

[CharlieC]

I haven’t forgotten my thread and pic request, been busy and my trailered kayak is in front of the K5, so in the way of better pics.

I’ll tell you, the more I read, the less I’m considering doing it and just may stick with EZ Rides.

I think my sway bar works because of all the mods. EZ-Inch, sway bar drop brackets and the ORD disconnects allow it to pivot up in the rear.

Charlie

 

[K85 Octane]

Eeeeehhmmmm
I’d guess that sway bar is whacking your draglink. It’s a good set up with push-pull OG steering but I don’t see how that’s not making contact. Hmmm

 

[Blue85]

Maybe the swaybar with poly bushings just prevents all articulation while the Rough Country springs prevent all axle travel. If the thing was flexing surely the uncut U-bolts would leave witness marks in the un-lowered bump stops by now? It's also possible the sway bar doesn't bind the drag link because the mounting brackets aren't actually attached (or this is an in progress picture)

 

[nvrenuf]

It appears to be a build pic, the sway bar isn’t bolted up.

 

[Blue85]

I think my sway bar works because of all the mods. EZ-Inch, sway bar drop brackets and the ORD disconnects allow it to pivot up in the rear.

Isn't the sway bar bent to clear on PS? How did you bend it? I see that the disconnects can not be used because the swaybar can't be tied up out of the way. Is your plan to run it all the time or to unbolt and remove the swaybar for offroading?

It appears to be a build pic, the sway bar isn’t bolted up.

Yeah, it's true. I was just busting chops. Plus, he seems to say they are Tuff Country springs.

 

[CharlieC]

Finally got back on the K5 and finished my tilt swap, Borgeson Shaft swap and swapped in some new EZ Ride springs, we’ll see just how EZ they are…

The main part is this crossover kit with my sway bar. With the steering now hooked up, I was able to cycle full left and right and everything appears to have plenty of room. Pics of this are hard to take for some reason to really show accurately. Everything is fully bolted/tightened in place.

Here’s full right


‘Here’s full left



The space between the leaf spring and the crossover was much better than it looks here and after the EZ Ride swap its even better since the spring pack is not as tall.

I can see how this would not work without the drop brackets in the front and ORD disconnects in the back. I’ll take it for a drive tomorrow and see how it does. Needs an alignment as the toe I guess is off? Tires are slightly splayed out (measuring and comparing front and back rotor measure.

CHARLIE

 

[Blue85]

Curious to see it with tires stuffed/drooped. Also, is the plan to keep the swaybar on all the time?