blazin_blazer
1/2 ton status
all these posts....i post and the thread dies.....wtf.....am i being boycotted? :-)
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52s vs 56s in the front and why??
- Thread starter twoslo4five0
- Start date
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
Reply
Good luck.
muddermilitia and i discussed this in his build thread right here, @ post 277 he said 56'' could only run turned 1 direction, so i'm lost now...here goes nuttin..
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195380&page=3
Next time could you put the link to the right page? 56s can go either direction. It is more than pointless to flip them around on the front since you are trying to gain space between the firewall and tire. Flipping them around would put actually put the tire closer to the firewall.
i had planned on b52 /56's and zero rate moving axel back 1 1/2'', to get me back close to stock wb .... @1'' forward....now i see all this....so, i can just swap sides w/ front hanger and it would put hanger in front of rad support mount and 56'' will bolt up, and longer shackle will help take full advantage of springs lenght.....but not good for street????
we also talked about crossover and hi steer here
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=223807
52/56ss on the street are not a good idea in my book but I air on the side of conservative in the safety department. 52/56s and crossover require the removal of the swaybar, increase body roll (read flex) and with the COG you are talking about, limit the K5 to minimal speeds. Also, one of the reasons you do the spring swap is to move the axle forward so that you can space bigger tires from the firewall. Generally, anything bigger than a 40" tire will benefit from this. Skip the zero rate and use the B52 kit (works with 56s too) as seen on the page of the first thread you listed and http://www.diy4x.com/suspension.htm .
so i guess i will just out right ask if what i'm thinking will work...(sorry for hijack, but i think its really same thing you are asking)
i was planning b52/ or swap sides with front mount(??) and 6'' 56'' spring, zero rate used to pull axle back and ?6''? shackels..up front....6'' 56'' springs in back w/shackle flip and ??(what ever it take to level k5)?? lenght shackles in the rear, to get 9-10'' of lift, and still be streetable? oh yea wanted to run the ord or some type of histeer(i've run into stuff in the mud and bent crossover b4...so am i thinking straight or should i just get a 10-12'' stock lift and btw..either way i want histeer and will be running as big a tire as i can afford since i got me a d60f,..maybe even 53'' michelinsw/3 more'' of body lift,...i no you guys dont like the body lifts, but i see no harm in them running in the mud and light i mean light trails or flexing?
I think your plan needs more work. 10" is more lift than I would ever want and would never pass for street legal around here. I'm concerned that a 4-5" lift would get Jonny Law on my tail. What you are talking about would definitely bring the suck. D60 fronts are good up to a 44" tire and even then you would want 35spline outers, chrome-alloy shafts. The R and P might be a little sensitive at this point but basically if you want to go bigger than a 44" , go with rockwells.
Personally, I think you might be better served to start with a 4" lift (or a stock 52/56" spring swap) and go from there. I think you would be pleasantly surprised with what you can do with that. What you are talking about takes some deep pockets and a lot of experience for a result that is limited in its usage. Or better yet, search more about what you want to do. Get a cold drink and a dinner and read this http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=170627 . There are some good ideas on there on what lift and the 52/56 spring swap will do for a rig.
Good luck.
blazin_blazer
1/2 ton status
the law doesn't mess w/ us to much around here, so that is not of concern to me, and moving the axel back is what i'm looking at doing, i guess i should have went into a little more detail, i need like a 105'' wb, as i am putting a '69 k5 on a 2nd gen frame and dont want to cut the body,
what do you mean post the right link? the first link i posted is correct @ post 277/278, and down a few we discuss this(56'' springs). and the second link i posted is where we talk about the crossover/histeer. so with that being said putting the 56'' on bakards and moving the axel back is what i need but how much back are we talking about?(thats what i was planning on the zero rate to fine adjust the axle to where i need it) i was told somewhere that w/ lift springs it wouldn't be as flexy as stock 56''s. i will read the link you posted and thank you, but i am wondering if a stock 10'' lift and a zero rate to set axel back 1.5'' maybe the right ticket for me, b/c iirc the 2nd gen is 106.5'' and the 1st gen is 104.5'', a difference of 2'', so the zero rate would put me at 105'' w/ stock lift springs and still be streetable, its mainly a mud runner but sees some rutted trails where the articulation would be handy but want to be able to drive it on the street, and like i said the cops really don't bother us to much if at all, i have a friend w/ 12'' swamp runner lift and a 3'' body lift and 49'' iroks and never been stopped and its his dd....thanks again
what do you mean post the right link? the first link i posted is correct @ post 277/278, and down a few we discuss this(56'' springs). and the second link i posted is where we talk about the crossover/histeer. so with that being said putting the 56'' on bakards and moving the axel back is what i need but how much back are we talking about?(thats what i was planning on the zero rate to fine adjust the axle to where i need it) i was told somewhere that w/ lift springs it wouldn't be as flexy as stock 56''s. i will read the link you posted and thank you, but i am wondering if a stock 10'' lift and a zero rate to set axel back 1.5'' maybe the right ticket for me, b/c iirc the 2nd gen is 106.5'' and the 1st gen is 104.5'', a difference of 2'', so the zero rate would put me at 105'' w/ stock lift springs and still be streetable, its mainly a mud runner but sees some rutted trails where the articulation would be handy but want to be able to drive it on the street, and like i said the cops really don't bother us to much if at all, i have a friend w/ 12'' swamp runner lift and a 3'' body lift and 49'' iroks and never been stopped and its his dd....thanks again
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
The link you posted was for page 3 and the post was on page 28. Your build sounds like something you are going to have to experiment with.
A little impatient, are we not? This thread is months old anyhow. It didn't build to this in one day.
im running ford 57s with a zero rate moving the axle back a inch and a half....gonna run crossover and hydro assist decided not to go full hydro right now
where are the center pins on ford 57's. I was doing some measuring yesterday of my 56's and with the center pin being where it is and moving the hanger in front of the body mount(4" forward) it only moves the axle 1" forward. sounds like your axle is gonna end up 1" behind where it was stock.
they move the axle foward like 6 inches...it think its 26 one one side and 32 on the other...i have the 3 inch wide ones also so my ferd spring plates will work and i dont have to put washers/spacers in to acommidate for and gap...
if its 26" on one side, then how does it move the axle forward 6"? if you move the front hanger in front of the body mount reusing the front holes that moves the mount 4". since stock springs are around 23" to the centerpin that means you are moving the axle 3" back from the hanger. that puts your axle at 1" forward of stock.
unless I am missing something here, but I can read a tape measure pretty well.
unless I am missing something here, but I can read a tape measure pretty well.
because of the center pin in location to the axle...think if you had a stock srping in your truck (truck is bone stock) then you drilled a hole for a new center pin 4 inches more foward than the stock hole,you would move the axle 4 inches foward....here read this
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138587&highlight=ford+57
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138587&highlight=ford+57
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
Nice math (26+32=58)
After reading that thread it says you could move the front axle forward 4" w. a zero rate, 57s, and the front mount relocation. Is that not enough? How much clearance do you need for 44s? I need clarification...
thats how much im moving it i just dont see how it doesnt move it farther foward with the short side foward....
Moving the axle forward isnt solely(sp?) for tire clearance. Many people do it to increase their approach angle
yep
this might help yall see it a little better..look at stompers rig (his are offset 52s)
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217140&highlight=moving+the+axle+foward&page=3
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
Thanks. That clarifies it. Between 44s and the axle relocation, it would seem like it could climb a tree.
im runnin 42s with the axle 2.5"s forward. I think if I had 44s and the axle was another inch or two forward It would be about 90 degree approach angleThanks. That clarifies it. Between 44s and the axle relocation, it would seem like it could climb a tree.
i figured that with my 44s and the axle 5 to 6 inches foward i would have a 90 degree or better approach angle but to keep that i was gonna need to make my winch mount deep into my grille and not run any kind of a bumper and full hydro
i opted to get a 80 degree or so aproach angle run crossover,hi steer and hydro assist because i know and understand more about it...i will go to full hydro one day just not ready for that yet
i opted to get a 80 degree or so aproach angle run crossover,hi steer and hydro assist because i know and understand more about it...i will go to full hydro one day just not ready for that yet
the springs are actually 25/32 offset
. just be careful with them, ive heard bout the short side snapping, but i think that was with the 2.5" springs, since u got 3" you might be alright.
. just be careful with them, ive heard bout the short side snapping, but i think that was with the 2.5" springs, since u got 3" you might be alright.
im gonna try it if worst comes to worst ill buy a set of 56's and put in there place
yes if you redrilled your stock springs 4" forward it would move the axle that far. thats not what you are doing.
same concept, except move the front hanger forward 4", with stock springs this would move your axle forward 4". this is with a center pin that is 23" from the end.
now that the hanger is moved forward 4" you are going to hook one end of the spring to it and the center pin will be back 25" from that point. that will move your axle back 2" from where a stock spring would be. now if you use a zero rate you can move it from there, but in order for you to move your axle forward 6" with 57's you would need to extend your frame and use zero rates.
if you mounted 57's from the stock hanger it would move your axle back because the distance from the spring end to the center pin is more then stock springs. last what people forget.
this is a terrible diagram but it might help.
