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57 Pontiac "Zero Fox"

It came with the disc brake kit, so I figured I'd use it if it works. They do have a reputation...however one of the big problems Frieburger and Dulcich had with the '56 Chevy was they couldn't get their rear brakes to bleed. After a few hours it turned out to be the Wilwood adjustable prop valve they were using wasn't letting anything through to the rear no matter what they did with the knob.

No line lock right now either. Certain things will be done after it's inspected and insured here.
 
Ok good to know, I plan on putting in a knob type on the Vette w the disc brakes….
So this car has to have an inspection? Because it hasn't been registered before or?
 
It's an Alberta car, however it was last registered and insured in 1966. The records here only go back to the 80's, or so I've heard. Anything before that they treat as if it has been imported to Alberta. So, it will need a "out of province" inspection. It's in my best interest to keep the car as simple as possible until after the inspection as it will only need to be done once.

So, no seat bets, no cage, no line lock, no reverse lights...basically nothing it didn't come with when new. The brakes are an exception, but shouldn't open any can of worms.
 
Ok got it. I had to do basically the same w that 64C10 from Kansas.
Not even close to being roadworthy but the Sheriffs deputy did a paper roadworthy inspection as it sat, and she passed it!
 
Just ordered my rear diff from Quick Performance.

GM Tri 5 1955-1957 Chevy Complete 9" Rear End Package
Housing Center Piece: New Fabricated Big Web (Light & Strong) - $50.00
Housing Upgrades: Drain and Fill Plugs w/ Jack Pad - $55.00
1/4" Heavy walled axle tube (recommended for 600+ horsepower or when welding will be done on tubes) - $30.00
Internal Gusseting (recommended for 800+ horsepower) - $75.00
Leaf Spring Perches *Required: Heavy Duty Reinforced Perches (ideal for high horsepower applications with Caltracs or similar traction bars) - $50.00
Leaf Spring Perches Installed *Required: Yes, Installed in Factory Location
New Leaf Spring U-Bolts: Yes Please (set of 4) - $40.00
New Leaf Spring Shock Plates: No Thanks
Powder Coating: No Thanks - Bare Metal
Enter notes about custom housing width, suspension setup, etc.: 58" overall width, WMS to WMS
Axle Spline *Required: 35 (For 600+ HP)
Center Section Upgrade (for 600+ HP): Yukon Pro N Case, Aluminum Daytona Support, 1350 Billet Yoke - $170.00
Aftermarket Center Section Traction Device - 35 Spline: 35 Detroit Locker - $329.00
Gear Ratio *Required: 4.30
Lube Locker Gasket: Yes please - $20.00
Bolt Pattern *Required: 5x4-3/4
Wheel Studs *Required: ARP 1/2"-20 x 3" Press in - $65.00
Brake Kit *Required: 11" Drum Brake Kit
Braided Steel Brake Lines: Yes Please - $75.00
Universal Parking Brake Cable Kit: Yes Please - $100.00

No idea how long it'll take to get here, I don't imagine this is an on the shelf kinda thing, but no idea on lead time.

I probably could have got away with 31 spline and fewer HD parts but I want room to grow, and have some real confidence that this isn't the weak link in the car.
 
I'm glad you got the 35 spline! Nice Rene!

Just a word of advice, might want to think twice about the locker for asphalt drag racing, they can do funny things when you let off at the big end going pretty fast. The cam mechanism has to reverse the engagement and it's not always exactly in unison on both sides.

I love my Detriot in the truck (front and rear), but in my street car I have a spool, it's safer. If you don't want a spool then I would recommend a limited slip or a truetrac worm gear diff. The spool doesn't bother me on the street at all, only downside is its a little harder to turn it sharp slow speeds without power steering, but nothing too difficult, especially with skinny front tires.

Just something to think about, want it to be safe for you.
 
Since we’re on that convo, what limit slip will take that abuse
 
Nice set up on the rear end but I agree with Heath, put a spool in it and forget about it.
The Detroit in my 9" did funny things when you let off on the big end or just playing on the streets.
Noticed very little difference in daily driving characteristics between the locker & spool.
They both chirp the tires slightly on tight turns... the spool left a bit more of a mark on the driveway at low speeds, but nothing dramatic but all the clunking and banging of the locker where gone.
 
Not the same, but kin of.

The Detroit in the Jimmy will pull the truck to one side after I let off of accelerating. To the point of correcting with steering, when on pavement. And it is only 200hp, on a good day with a tail wind going down hill.

The spool is a smart choice for your application.
 
Interesting. I haven’t noticed that in mine. Wonder if it’s a difference in the generations of detroits? Mine is very docile and tame on the street with no clunking or anything like I’ve always been told. Definitely no doubt when it’s locked though.
 
I had the Detroit in my 81 Jimmy, and I do recall it having "locker steer" on the shifts with the SM 465...
 
The other thing I noticed early on and did not consider was, with the 35's, the tire pressures had to be right on in the rears or it would steer under acceleration and the opposite way on deceleration. I tried to figure out why it changed over time.
 
I do believe 90% of Detroit complaints stem from the 14b generation, thus the soft lock variant. IIRC, the Detroit was engineered for ford in the 9” drag pack cars in the early 60s
 
Been reading, and thinking back to my personal experience with a Detroit and a manual trans, as well as my experience with various cars and trucks with spools or Lincoln Lockers. I'm sticking with the Detroit. I do think having tire pressure exactly the same side to side will be critical though. I could see if a fella was off a little, that after 1320 feet under WOT there might be some tension built up by the time you got to the big end.

This isn't a trailer queen, it will see plenty of street miles as well as the Drag and Drive events. I think for my application it's the right choice.
 
Spent a little time on the start of the exhaust. I got a bunch of 45 degree elbows on 3" aluminized. They're perfect for the passenger side header, but the angle on the driver's side is approx 65 degrees...so I have to make custom 65 degree elbows from the 45 degree elbows I have. Anyways, I had to make a fixture to be able to accurately mark the tube because I don't have a really good saw. A few hours later I got the first one tacked up, which was proof of concept. The second one is marked up and ready to go.

I am going to have a pair of these elbows as collector extensions for at the track, with another set leading into the street exhaust under the rockers of the car and exiting in front of the rear tires.

Tacked up.

IMG_20230211_130717_01.jpg

IMG_20230211_130715_01.jpg

I also don't own a TIG welder yet, so these got MIG welded, then ground smooth and painted black to match the headers.

PXL_20230212_032820354.jpg

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