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6.2 diesel IP pump cylinder number 6 leak

imiceman44 said:
I feel for you.
I have struggled with my 6.2 a few times and I have been through everything you are and then some including blowing my head gaskets twice in 2 months and then once that was fixed blew 2 transmissions.
Luckily it's an extra vehicle and I would just walk away and come back calm.
I was going to offer fuel lines earlier but you had already ordered them.
I have a few complete engines that I rob parts from.
I recently had a similar problem with my mercedes diesel and I was away from home 450 miles away and after 2 days of messing with it on the side of the road I decided to tow it home and park it till I have time to deal with it with no pressure.
Good luck, I can't think of anything you haven't yet other than glow plugs possibly not working.
You might try the WD40 as @kennyw has suggested
Click to expand...
@imiceman44 ,

I'd forgotten to update this forum.
I got er going. So essentially. I ha 7 good glow plugs. 3 on driver side 4 on passenger side.

They worked fine before, so I didn't F*** with them and didn't even think about em.

Well, I spoke to an ol timer n he goes lotsa white smoke and shaking it's guts out, sounds like GPs and you need em since it's an IDI.

Well I checked, 12 volts to relay, 12 volts to driver side. And 12v to passenger side. But I went further. Pulled em all out and with GP connector on pin, and ground GP out with battery. Driver side glows cherry red. Passenger side, nothing. Even though she's got 12 v

I'm trying stuff n trying stuff. Then. There's a 4 pin connector bout a foot away from relay I driver fender. She's looks tired. Unplugged it and o g it was filthy. It just a connector for the two 12 or 14 gauge wires that go to each banks GP harness and the signal wire (blue and pink) that go to n from the GP controller.

Well Jesus, passenger side glowed off it'd own harness and i banged em all back in there and she fired.

Simplest things sometimes. I co.pletely neglected GPs as a possible cause since welli didn't touch em. But luckily old timer made me think of GPs otherwise I'd still be out there cranking.

I love thise old mercs, I know a guys whos got a handful and converted them to veggie oul cars. Mechanical injection just like 6.2s. Says he has no problems. Secrets in clean oil at the right temperature.

I wish I had old engines laying around kinda hoarding stuff. I made many trips to hardware store for tools and parts n ugh.
What needed being the issue with the merc?
 
hotpile82 said:
@imiceman44 ,

I'd forgotten to update this forum.
I got er going. So essentially. I ha 7 good glow plugs. 3 on driver side 4 on passenger side.

They worked fine before, so I didn't F*** with them and didn't even think about em.

Well, I spoke to an ol timer n he goes lotsa white smoke and shaking it's guts out, sounds like GPs and you need em since it's an IDI.

Well I checked, 12 volts to relay, 12 volts to driver side. And 12v to passenger side. But I went further. Pulled em all out and with GP connector on pin, and ground GP out with battery. Driver side glows cherry red. Passenger side, nothing. Even though she's got 12 v

I'm trying stuff n trying stuff. Then. There's a 4 pin connector bout a foot away from relay I driver fender. She's looks tired. Unplugged it and o g it was filthy. It just a connector for the two 12 or 14 gauge wires that go to each banks GP harness and the signal wire (blue and pink) that go to n from the GP controller.

Well Jesus, passenger side glowed off it'd own harness and i banged em all back in there and she fired.

Simplest things sometimes. I co.pletely neglected GPs as a possible cause since welli didn't touch em. But luckily old timer made me think of GPs otherwise I'd still be out there cranking.

I love thise old mercs, I know a guys whos got a handful and converted them to veggie oul cars. Mechanical injection just like 6.2s. Says he has no problems. Secrets in clean oil at the right temperature.

I wish I had old engines laying around kinda hoarding stuff. I made many trips to hardware store for tools and parts n ugh.
What needed being the issue with the merc?
Click to expand...
So it was glow plugs, I had the same problem once.
The mercedes is a 97, no turbo, first generation computer controlled.
I have been running veggie oil in it for couple of years successfully.
Recently I started having long start times and I decided to check the strainer in the tank and it was gummed up bad and it had about an inch of black slime at the bottom.
I cleaned it all up an changed filters and ran purge though it a couple of times and ran pure fuel, for a couple of days and it was a lot better so I drove to see my daughter 450 miles away, 3 miles away I stop at the light and that's all she wrote.
Never started after that.
It wants to start, and it it does a little bit of work but never comes to life, I tried help with starting fluid and all I get is the roar from the fluid then nothing, seemed like fuel starving so put an electric lift pump inline and made sure I was getting fuel to the filter and the filter was clean but nothing changed.
I suspect something possibly gummed up in the ip.
I have plans to add a turbo and a mechanical ip from the previous generation and is my next project for this year.
I had been thinking about it since I got the turbo parts but didn't want to mess with a running car.
Well it ain't running now.
:pimp:
 
I am wondering, definitely running pure fuel through it helps.
Did you go as far as changing injectors or at least the tips? That's so weird that it made it all that way n gave up?!

My issue I'm having now. Which ill look at after it's getting dark i don't have a shop and I have cold drinks now. But my exhaust manifold is always damp.

I went out n checked it out a bit and then came back coz I noticed injector 1 and 5 bubbling. And glow plug 7 bubbling as well. So I pulled at driving side injectors cleaned them and stuck em back in there. The torque spec seems a lil low. 50 ft lbs. I bumped it to 60 ft lbs. When I was having my GP issue and the engine was shaking constantly, shaking starter bolts loose, I wouldn't be surprised it shook Injectors too.
same thing on passenger indid 2 and 6 coz I saw bubbling.
Now, I kinda fed up, I don't want to over tighten anything but... I mean, seal oring whatever is there, it seats fully, thread nicely. Is this part of a breaking in process.
I mean it's not dribbling on the ground or anything but ya know, I'd rather now have hot diesel dripping on my hot exhaust? Lol
 
hotpile82 said:
I am wondering, definitely running pure fuel through it helps.
Did you go as far as changing injectors or at least the tips? That's so weird that it made it all that way n gave up?!

My issue I'm having now. Which ill look at after it's getting dark i don't have a shop and I have cold drinks now. But my exhaust manifold is always damp.

I went out n checked it out a bit and then came back coz I noticed injector 1 and 5 bubbling. And glow plug 7 bubbling as well. So I pulled at driving side injectors cleaned them and stuck em back in there. The torque spec seems a lil low. 50 ft lbs. I bumped it to 60 ft lbs. When I was having my GP issue and the engine was shaking constantly, shaking starter bolts loose, I wouldn't be surprised it shook Injectors too.
same thing on passenger indid 2 and 6 coz I saw bubbling.
Now, I kinda fed up, I don't want to over tighten anything but... I mean, seal oring whatever is there, it seats fully, thread nicely. Is this part of a breaking in process.
I mean it's not dribbling on the ground or anything but ya know, I'd rather now have hot diesel dripping on my hot exhaust? Lol
Click to expand...
Yeah there's no O-ring in there, it's all compression fitting so if it leaks tighten a little more till it stops.
I believe the injector to head has a copper or aluminum washer to squish.
I will try and confirm once I get an injector off, should be in the next couple of days.
As for dripping fuel on the hot exhaust manifold, check, that happened when test driving my second transmission and the end cap on the return line passenger side broke off from old age, it was gushing.good thing I was 1 mile from my job where I had it parked
 
imiceman44 said:
Yeah there's no O-ring in there, it's all compression fitting so if it leaks tighten a little more till it stops.
I believe the injector to head has a copper or aluminum washer to squish.
I will try and confirm once I get an injector off, should be in the next couple of days.
As for dripping fuel on the hot exhaust manifold, check, that happened when test driving my second transmission and the end cap on the return line passenger side broke off from old age, it was gushing.good thing I was 1 mile from my job where I had it parked
Click to expand...
Yes can confirm there is a copper washer on the injector.
I dont want to crank on the injector though. I've already gone past the torque spec the manual says to torque it to. It's fine when it's idling, so i think I won, then driving around revving, shifting gears different throttle positions the exhaust is wet. I'm wondering if I should just pull all of em and I dunno pink Teflon? Lol I'd rather not.
 
hotpile82 said:
Yes can confirm there is a copper washer on the injector.
I dont want to crank on the injector though. I've already gone past the torque spec the manual says to torque it to. It's fine when it's idling, so i think I won, then driving around revving, shifting gears different throttle positions the exhaust is wet. I'm wondering if I should just pull all of em and I dunno pink Teflon? Lol I'd rather not.
Click to expand...
You can tighten the injectors more, the copper will squish and seal.
And if your lines are still turning the injectors when you loosen them, the injectors are not too tight.
I was having that problem but not anymore
 
imiceman44 said:
You can tighten the injectors more, the copper will squish and seal.
And if your lines are still turning the injectors when you loosen them, the injectors are not too tight.
I was having that problem but not anymore
Click to expand...
I spoke to father in law, and he says the washers are crushed and should seal at 50 ft lbs. So when I took the injectors out to have a look see, the copper washer was squished and that's all she wrote.
So basically I should anneal it, heat it up and let it cool either by air cooling or a dunk in water, that sorta resets the crush washer and then to torque back to 50 ft lbs.... I might try that
 
hotpile82 said:
I spoke to father in law, and he says the washers are crushed and should seal at 50 ft lbs. So when I took the injectors out to have a look see, the copper washer was squished and that's all she wrote.
So basically I should anneal it, heat it up and let it cool either by air cooling or a dunk in water, that sorta resets the crush washer and then to torque back to 50 ft lbs.... I might try that
Click to expand...
Or get a new washer
 
Yeah Im tryna find a store locally i can walk out of the store with them in ha d without having to wait for an online order... or can use a close enough size from a generic kit from hardware store. I dont know if it'll affect anything if it is t the OEM injector seal.
 
Would I get away with annealing them, heating up, and letting cool, to reuse them?
 
hotpile82 said:
Would I get away with annealing them, heating up, and letting cool, to reuse them?
Click to expand...
I don't see how that would help. Heating the copper won't return the washer to the original, undeformed shape. The metal is deformed to match the two mating surfaces when first used and takes that shape permanently. When they are reinstalled a second time and repositioned, it will start to deform again but may not completely seal before the parts bottom out.
 
Its an old trick that works with certains things. Especially oul pan drain plugs.
Its a last ditch attempt in a squeeze. I've done it with oil pans. But not injectors.
 
hotpile82 said:
Its an old trick that works with certains things. Especially oul pan drain plugs.
Its a last ditch attempt in a squeeze. I've done it with oil pans. But not injectors.
Click to expand...
If whatever you do is shrink it back up then it could help.
Short of that I don't see the benefit and from what I had to pay for copper washers it's not worth my time
 
Agreed they're cheap. I just can't find a store that carries them. I have a GM genuine part number so, I'll call a stealership tomorrow or napa. Coz otherwise it's just copper washer kits with various sizes
 
Yes, we have napa. Called em, item discontinued. Which is BS coz they used these washers in gmc savanas n chevy express until 2002 or 04.
Anyways no big deal. Found a parts store that had em.

Did the deed, seems ok now. But it does f-ing shake at idle holy crap.
Ni fuel leaks to report yet. But now, so things is dripping down from my oil filter onto the ground. So gonna go see what's up with that. It's never ending lol.
Hopefully residual fuel from all the messing around and injectors not being fluid tight. And not something else.

Is it too much to ask not to leave a spot on the pavement everytime I leave, lol.

Yeah napa is pretty tragic here I've pretty much bypassed them ans now go to their supplier, lol. Can be expensive but it's much less f-ing around.

Chevy dealership is pretty disappointing. 2 weeks to order the part. Lol nevermind dude.
 
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