6.2 diesel IP pump cylinder number 6 leak

[hotpile82]

As the title says,

6.2 diesel k20 suburban 1982 4x4.

Got new high pressure lines, new injectors new return lines.

Everything is installed except for the injection lines to number 2 and 4 (passenger side forward) I couldn't get them lined up for some reason. Got fed up. Old ones were fine. They look old but whatever. Number 6 and 8 i can't reuse the line, the fitting was seized on the injector had to take a hacksaw to it.

The new lines have a bit more spring in them but not enough to be this much of a pain. I discovered the leak yesterday, took it all apart, inspected the threads on IP and line, they look fine honestly. I blew in one end while plugging the other, not the best compression test but I think I'd have found if something was off., crack or otherwise...

This is driving me nuts now, I reinstalled it and sang it a song. Made sure I wasn't kinking this way or that. Started with that fitting so the threads went home nice n easy

Clean paper towel underneath the pump while cranking with glow plugs out. And it leaked.

So, what I'm thinking is.... take IP stud for #6 out? Run a die on it? Or see if i can find a store that has this fitting and just replace it?
I'm alone so I can't see what it does while cranking really it it sprays... but I see the wet spot on paper towel and It drips down. All the others are fine and like I said theure all a bit springy and I didn't force this one any harder than others.

I can't find anyone that sells individual lines, so I'll need to buy a whole new kit again....
6.2 stuff is hard to find. 6.5 maybe at a push. But I dunno.

Is it bad threads or the seal got dinged or is my fuel pump on its way out?

Thanks for any help here.
Frustrated.

 

[hotpile82]

Are there o rings on the inside of pump? Like, there's the threaded stud we all see on the back of the pump where we connect our injector too. Then the stud threads in the block or body of the pump, is it sealed with an oring?
I'm searching forums here n saw it mentioned fir a Ford IDI,

 

[hotpile82]

Never mind. User error.
Darn thing wasn't tight enough. It had 1.5 more threads showing than all the others, it did take a fair amount to get it to turn but I'm just an idiot afraid of stripping and breaking studs. Which I've done in the past. Which really sucks.
Anyways. Disregard and thank to you all anyway!
Cheers

 

[Barrman]

Glad you got it fixed.

 

[hotpile82]

Yep, it's fixed, I spun it without glow plugs in, and saw fuel come out. And now with the intake plenum back on and everything in place, she's taking an awfully long time to get going still... dunno how long it's taken you all in the past...
Is there a break in procedure for new injectors? Or just plug n play? Maybe I'll crack all 8 again.

 

[Cucv_M1008]

Yep, it's fixed, I spun it without glow plugs in, and saw fuel come out. And now with the intake plenum back on and everything in place, she's taking an awfully long time to get going still... dunno how long it's taken you all in the past...
Is there a break in procedure for new injectors? Or just plug n play? Maybe I'll crack all 8 again.

Install injectors, bleed air out of system and go for a drive.

 

[hotpile82]

Install injectors, bleed air out of system and go for a drive.

I'm trying! Lol injectors were the first things to go on!

Its too dark and the batteries are are pooched. I'll charge em and try again tomorrow. I dunno if I'm jist impatient or if this takes a while, I've been at it most of the afternoon, taking glow plugs outs spinning, it, bleeding each injectors, one one on each side, so 2 at a time. Cranking 20 seconds and giving it 15 mins in between.

The last try there was some chugging and rumbling. I think I'm close. I thought new injectors and stuff would make it rearing to go. Then again, air in a fuel system is bad news everywhere.

 

[Cucv_M1008]

Some times ip's can take a while to bleed the air out.

 

[hotpile82]

Damn thing shook its starter bolts loose.. geez. What tryna get it going, it spins fast, smoke, rumbling etc... all the good signs. But man does it shake!
Then horrible grinding noise. 3 of the 4 bolts loose. And one is basically missing.

 

[Barrman]

Don’t try it again until all of the start bolts and that bracket are tight! The block breaking where the bolt furthest from the crankshaft is will be next. I have gotten several good running engines with that issue. Welded one up and used the other for parts on other projects.

 

[Barrman]

Also, the two big starter bolts are supposed to be single use only with knurling the inch or so near the bolt head. I reuse them until the knurling starts to get smooth and bounces around the housing of the starter.

 

[hotpile82]

Don’t try it again until all of the start bolts and that bracket are tight! The block breaking where the bolt furthest from the crankshaft is will be next. I have gotten several good running engines with that issue. Welded one up and used the other for parts on other projects.

Yeah no worries. Luckily she's holding together. When I changed my syarter last winter, I was so annoyed and cold I almost didn't bother with the starter brace, now I'm f-ing glad I did.
Got some bolts at the store to replace the missing one. Someone did some custom work on the mounting of the starter..joys of custom work.
Now I just pray that resolves the issue.

Before it happened, the engine was tur in plenty fast, smoke etc etc... just won't bloody start. Had a smart charger with engine start feature on it while trying... it is one stubborn SOB.

 

[kennyw]

You can try WD40 as a starting aid.

You can also use 15 psi air pressure to bleed air through the tank to fuel filter by blowing the air into the fuel return line. That usually speeds up the bleeding process for me.

After that you need to loosen the hard lines at each injector. Crank the motor until you get steady fuel from each fuel line, tightening them one by one once they get fuel.

 

[hotpile82]

Also, the two big starter bolts are supposed to be single use only with knurling the inch or so near the bolt head. I reuse them until the knurling starts to get smooth and bounces around the housing of the starter.

I didnt know that...
Then again, this is custom, the bolts on there now are bigger than the OEM syarter is meant for. I dunno all the history.. anyway, I had to bring the new syarter I got to a machine shop and get them to drill bigger holes. Its creative how they "fixed" it, the previous owner(s)

I don't know what the threads are like. Of tapped or... helicoil... I think I'll pull them out individually and use thread lock on em though

 

[hotpile82]

You can try WD40 as a starting aid.

You can also use 15 psi air pressure to bleed air through the tank to fuel filter by blowing the air into the fuel return line. That usually speeds up the bleeding process for me.

After that you need to disconnect the ignition wire at the IP and loosen the hard lines at each injector. Crank the motor until you get steady fuel from each fuel line, tightening them one by one once they get fuel. After they all have fuel and are tight, then you reconnect the ignition wire and try to start it.

I read about this. For the 82 to 84 models. Modifying a gas cap and sticking air in itto pressurized the system...
I have an electric lift pump and spin on filter on fire wall with vent and drain valve. The lift pump provides plenty to the filter I tried bleeding that and it comes out plenty there.

What's the pink wire on IP do.
I'll have to double check. I tried chasing wires and they spliced and changed colours like 3 or 4 times.

 

[kennyw]

I read about this. For the 82 to 84 models. Modifying a gas cap and sticking air in itto pressurized the system...
I have an electric lift pump and spin on filter on fire wall with vent and drain valve. The lift pump provides plenty to the filter I tried bleeding that and it comes out plenty there.

What's the pink wire on IP do.
I'll have to double check. I tried chasing wires and they spliced and changed colours like 3 or 4 times.

If the wiring is hacked, double check it is getting good voltage with the key on. The pink wire is the ignition circuit. It operates a fuel solenoid inside the IP to control the motor starting and shuts off fuel when off. Which means I wrote the instructions wrong, you only disconnect the pink wire to bleed the filter, not the engine.

But you do need to crack the line at the injectors or you will not bleed the air out. Air in the lines compresses rather than popping the injector open.

 

[hotpile82]

Yyeah good idea to check wiring.
Coz before the starter wanted to get up n leave, it was definitely spinning plenty fast enough to want to go. And I bled it I dunno how many ways.
Injectors, glow plugs out until had mist coming out of the block. There was a leak at number leaking down the block to the motor mount. I removed injector, retorqued it, and checked glow plug, its stopped leaking whatever it was...
Makes me wonder if IP is jist nope-ing.
coz theres fuel, air, and compression. Last time i checked that what you need for diesels.
I found a pic of the pink wire and its location. So I'll scope that out once i get the starter squared away.

If the wiring is hacked, double check it is getting good voltage with the key on. The pink wire is the ignition circuit. It operates a fuel solenoid inside the IP to control the motor starting and shuts off fuel when off. Which means I wrote the instructions wrong, you only disconnect the pink wire to bleed the filter, not the engine.

But you do need to crack the line at the injectors or you will not bleed the air out. Air in the lines compresses rather than popping the injector open.

 

[hotpile82]

I pulled the starter to make sure there was no damaged teeth. Everything looks good. But! I said that good thing the starter brace was there. Well, It's not.
Which means, it shook the nut that tightens on the starter stud loose.
The bolt that threads into the block loose.
The bracket (brace) came off. Shook the starter bolts loose. Errrmmmm.... yeah, so gonna see to that first I think.
And Invest in red loctite, not blue.

 

[hotpile82]

Syarter is back woth loctite and washers, snugged up nice. It turns over nice. Still won't start.

Checked the fuelshut off solenoid, that has 12 volts and can hear audible click. I crank one time, and it smokes and rumbles like it wants to. Then I give it a break, crank again, and it's just cranking. Like there's no fuel.

The pump is fine. I had zero issues with it before. Unless all the cranking and bleeding has messed something up inside it? I don't know... it kinda driving me nuts at this point.

Before, I messed with fuel lines and tried to loosen them all and number 7 injector started coming loose with injector line. I think that was the cause of my problems. I'd bleed n bleed n bleed. And it did eventually start. And ran great. I have done anything with the pump since. Just injector lines, return lines, and inkectors...im at a loss here because I could be fuel pump....

The line coming from the filter to the fuel heater on passenger side looks tired. I might change that and see if a new line helps flow better... I don't know how to trouble shoot further.

Glow plugs removed, bled that way.
Cracked inkectors bled that way, and yes there was fuel. Its like the diesel won't combust lol...

 

[imiceman44]

Syarter is back woth loctite and washers, snugged up nice. It turns over nice. Still won't start.

Checked the fuelshut off solenoid, that has 12 volts and can hear audible click. I crank one time, and it smokes and rumbles like it wants to. Then I give it a break, crank again, and it's just cranking. Like there's no fuel.

The pump is fine. I had zero issues with it before. Unless all the cranking and bleeding has messed something up inside it? I don't know... it kinda driving me nuts at this point.

Before, I messed with fuel lines and tried to loosen them all and number 7 injector started coming loose with injector line. I think that was the cause of my problems. I'd bleed n bleed n bleed. And it did eventually start. And ran great. I have done anything with the pump since. Just injector lines, return lines, and inkectors...im at a loss here because I could be fuel pump....

The line coming from the filter to the fuel heater on passenger side looks tired. I might change that and see if a new line helps flow better... I don't know how to trouble shoot further.

Glow plugs removed, bled that way.
Cracked inkectors bled that way, and yes there was fuel. Its like the diesel won't combust lol...

I feel for you.
I have struggled with my 6.2 a few times and I have been through everything you are and then some including blowing my head gaskets twice in 2 months and then once that was fixed blew 2 transmissions.
Luckily it's an extra vehicle and I would just walk away and come back calm.
I was going to offer fuel lines earlier but you had already ordered them.
I have a few complete engines that I rob parts from.
I recently had a similar problem with my mercedes diesel and I was away from home 450 miles away and after 2 days of messing with it on the side of the road I decided to tow it home and park it till I have time to deal with it with no pressure.
Good luck, I can't think of anything you haven't yet other than glow plugs possibly not working.
You might try the WD40 as @kennyw has suggested