Any tricks to getting these buggers out? I think I'm down to 3-4 functional glow plugs, but I'm scared to snap them off. I just put an open ended wrench on them, but they don't want to budge.
CK5
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6.2 glow plug removal
- Thread starter Mastiff
- Start date
I had to use a 6 point 3/8" socket on mine,and a few that threatened to break off finally came loose when I tried removing them right after driving the truck a few miles...used liquid wrench on them too,though it probably helped none..
If they're not swollen you won't have a problem. If they are use PB Blaster and be gentle with them.
I did mine last fall, they came out real easy.
If you snap one off you can get it out by pulling that injector out and grabbing the broken section with a set of curved needle nose pliers.
There was a how to video, I couldn't find it.
There is a fancy ($$$) tool for extracting them, I never heard of anyone I know using it.
I did mine last fall, they came out real easy.
If you snap one off you can get it out by pulling that injector out and grabbing the broken section with a set of curved needle nose pliers.
There was a how to video, I couldn't find it.
There is a fancy ($$$) tool for extracting them, I never heard of anyone I know using it.
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I think he meant they felt like they would snap off when he went to loosen them--they have a tapered seat like a spark plug and being thin shelled and only 10mm ,I can understand his apprehension...I had fears of mine snapping off flush in the heads and have to be drilled out,or the heads removed!.
Yup, they seem flimsy compared to how much torque you can put on. Also, being square they seem like they might round off with only an open ended wrench on there. Snapping off flush would really suck.
They only need to be snugged up to maybe 5-10 ft lbs at most--why people like to tighten things like spark plugs and glow plugs like they are lug nuts or holding the engine in,I dont know,but it seems they often do!..makes life suck for the "next owner"...
I always cringe when I go to replace spark or glow plugs for the first time,fearing some gorilla tightened them too much,stripped the heads ,or heli-coiled them already,when I get a "new to me" vehicle!..
One trick that might help is to use a 6 point socket on a 3/8" ratchet and tap on the ratchet with a hammer while you apply torque to loosen them up..
I'd get the engine up to temp first too..good luck..
I always cringe when I go to replace spark or glow plugs for the first time,fearing some gorilla tightened them too much,stripped the heads ,or heli-coiled them already,when I get a "new to me" vehicle!..
One trick that might help is to use a 6 point socket on a 3/8" ratchet and tap on the ratchet with a hammer while you apply torque to loosen them up..
I'd get the engine up to temp first too..good luck..
I wouldn't use an open-ended wrench for this job. IIRC, a socket is more convenient, anyway (and a requirement if you have a 6.5TD manifold installed
).There's no reason for the previous owner to have torqued them down tight. So we'll hope he had some sense and was careful with them (
& ). FWIW, I've replaced 2 sets, and none of the plugs gave me any trouble, aside from tight quarters on the turbo manifold.5 ft-lbs? Wow. If so, that would explain why they just about fell out in my hand. I remember my manual saying 35 ft-lbs. Now I wanna go check.
It's been a while since I made my last attempt. Is it a 12-point deep socket that you use? I know it was a square with the connector on top that would need to be cleared. Thanks.
I used a deep 6-point socket. The heads were hexagonal, and the tab was narrower than the head so I didn't see any benefit to reducing the contact area with a 12-point socket.
The AC 60G plugs were 3/8" head, the Bosch were 10mm head. I wouldn't want to put a 10mm on an AC plug.
But, as dieselforme said, using 3/8" on the 10mm is a useful extraction technique.
I wouldn't use an open-ended wrench for this job. IIRC, a socket is more convenient, anyway (and a requirement if you have a 6.5TD manifold installed
There's no reason for the previous owner to have torqued them down tight. So we'll hope he had some sense and was careful with them (
5 ft-lbs? Wow. If so, that would explain why they just about fell out in my hand. I remember my manual saying 35 ft-lbs. Now I wanna go check.
I know the "correct" torque spec is likely higher,but I tend to tighten things like spark and glow plugs to lower specs,especially tapered seat ones...they can seize in there very tight and want to break off before coming loose...
I haven't had any fall out or unscrew themselves yet--here they RUST in place in a couple months...
I had to use those special "bolt-out" sockets for stripped bolts on my AC 60G's after 5 years,rust had whittled the hex portion away to a nub on some of them...a few I managed to remove with a 6 point 5/16" deep socket,hammered onto the "stub" left..the spade terminals actually rotted right off 3 of them and the wires were dangling with the remains of the spade ,was lucky they didn't ground out on the hot exhaust manifolds..
I know the AC 60G's and Autolite 1110 plugs were 3/8 hex,I never used any Bosch or other plugs,they could be metric--the threads are 10mm on all the ones I have replaced..
I curse every time I need a new glow plug...not just because they can suck to remove--I'm not used to paying 10-15 bucks EACH,when I got used to buying a whole set of 8 spark plugs for the same money...(and my gas engines always STARTED in the cold too!)..
