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6.2 Newbie - I'm ba-ack!

BadDog

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Well, I sold my truggy when my son lost interest and my daughter didn't want to work on it. Kept my "1-ton Expedition K5", but my daughter needed it for work, so couldn't really do what I wanted to do with it. Then she started college, and unlike my son who was very energetic at becoming financially independent, she didn't get to a point to buy her own vehicle and kept driving my K5. Now we've moved across town and she drives much further to college, that 350 on 35's is killing her on fuel. And I want my toy back! So we've (I've) bought a C10 with 6.2 I was thinking of for a donor to the K5, but turns out it's a little too nice to cut up, and it makes a lot of sense for her as a daily driver.

So here I am trying to learn my way around an 85 C10 SWB Step with 6.2 and 465. No idea it's history, but apparently it was let sit for a while, sold to someone who tried to get it running, put a bunch of stuff including glows into it, and couldn't get it to stop pouring gray smoke. The main selling point is that it looks factory under the hood, almost perfectly unmolested. I bought it and had towed home. 2 new batteries, drained tank and added 5 gal of fresh diesel, and cranked it to see the aforementioned smoke screen. On the up side, I think we shall see no more mosquitoes for a while. A bit of research led to advancing the pump a bit, which helped a lot, then a bit more, which helped a bit more, and here we are. Based on all the timing it needed, I expect it needs a new timing set, and that's on "the list" near term down the road, but not right away.

Still needs a lot of work, but I think it will make her a good driver 20+ mpg within the next week or two, depending on luck and time I can dedicate to it. She's got her heart set on a full size truck, and with that in mind, it don't get much better than this for an economical daily driver.

It still needs a thousand "little things" (and some not so little) to get it the way I want it, but one thing I'm curious about is optimal differential gear ratio for a light SWB with NO interest in performance, hauling or towing (if I want that, I've got my chipped DMax 2500 HD) and ALL the focus on economy. Don't get me wrong, I want it to get out of it's own way and be able to merge with relative ease, but the focus is on economy and longevity.

It's got what look like basically fat car tires on it now, and that will likely give way to some taller (lower rolling resistance) LT tires. And I haven't yet checked (codes are gone) the current gears, but I think they are rather low for the torque curve on this motor. Looks like 2100-2600 or so is the sweet spot for economy, so I think I would like to be in the upper part of that range at ~75 on the freeway. I can do the math to work out tire and gear combos to get close to achieving that, but wanted to see what others here may have found to be a good working combo.
 
Sure it's a 465? Some of those got the Mopar A833 4 speed OD stick. Supposed to not be terribly durable under hard use but good for DD use.
 
I can only wish. Would love to have OD, but no, it's the "granny low".
 
A bit of research led to advancing the pump a bit, which helped a lot, then a bit more, which helped a bit more, and here we are.

The half tons got EGR as well. There's vacuum lines that go from a small solenoid on the driver's side (just to the right of the air cleaner housing if you're facing the engine bay). One goes up inside the air cleaner housing to a feed valve in the middle of the intake and the other goes down to a diverter valve in the driver's side exhaust manifold. Pull both of those lines, cap all the open connections and enjoy significantly reduced smoke and a decent power boost.

You should be able to bring the pump timing back to normal/slightly advanced after that. I seem to remember Rene mentioning that it shouldn't be more than 1/16" or so past the factory timing mark.
 
Or just get a J-code intake and eliminate the whole EGR setup completely.


I'm betting you'd want a nice 3.08 gear or so for road cruising with no OD.
 
A rebuilt IP and 8 injectors isn't a whole ton of money, and is probably what it needs anyways. My K5 smoked like a train when the IP 'went'. I swapped in a rebuilt IP and 8 injectors and the smoke was completely gone.

For optimum economy aim the gearing/tire size for 1800 rpm at 65 mph. My C1500 with the 700R-4 has 3.42's and 235/75-R15's that are ~28" tall. It cruises right in the sweet spot and often tops 24 mpg on the highway. I'
m thinking you're gonna end up with 2.73's and a tire closer to 30" tall to achieve that.

Throw some 3" duals under it, it might not get quicker or more economical to run but it'll sound damn good. :waytogo:

 
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I have already considered a "J" intake, after I get it through smog. I seriously doubt they are going to pop the cleaner, but the sticker on the core support shows EGR, so leaving it for now. However, I may disconnect just to see how much difference it makes on the smoke.

I'm wondering if 1800 at 75 without OD and only 3 usable gears isn't going to present a problem. I was figuring on 2.73 or maybe 3.08 with tires selected to hit the target, just not sure what the target should be. Seems the peak torque is at 2200-2400 on these, so I figured that might be a good figure to work with.

It may come down R/R on IP and injectors, but was hoping to get it through emissions first, and maybe do a "J" intake swap while the intake is off.

Thanks for the advice, and keep it coming!
 
Well, tq peak is 2000 rpm, and what I've read and seen first hand is 1800 at 65 nets the best overall economy. Running 75 at 2100 or 2200 doesn't seem to hurt my mileage drastically. I think I lose about 2 mpg running 75...

Getting through emissions with a 4 gear like the SM 465 can be problematic if it's done the way they do it here. They use a dyno and do a somewhat lengthy 'drive' at varying speeds and loads, the last part of the test is a WOT run from 20 mph to 65 mph. At no point during the test can the diesel exhaust exceed 30% opacity. The problem is the 465 is such a wide ratio box it's very easy to shift it too early and majorly lug it in the next gear...which causes a lot of smoke you'd never see driving it normally.

I thought about it for a while and came up with a throttle stop under the dash that prevented anything more than 1/2 throttle. I never used more throttle than that driving it daily anyways...and it prevented the R-tards at the E-test station from failing my truck due their ignorance.

I highly recommend a throttle stop to get it tested successfully. There is definitely a point where more throttle just means more smoke, not more acceleration.
 
Sweet! Thanks Rene, that's just the help I was hoping for.
 
Oh, and the attached graph is what I what I used to determine my initial target of 2200-2400 @75. That assumes that 65 is the more typical sustained speed, and still supporting decent performance for typical stop-n-go well within the power range.

6_2%20C%20hp-tq.jpg
 
Oh, and another question. I've heard that the 833(?) is pretty hard to find, and may be a bear to get parts for. Also heard that the NV4500 is becoming more expensive and harder to get parts for. So, what are the best options for a good non-heavy-duty OD manual trans to put behind the 6.2? I suppose I could start sniffing around for a GV OD tag, but just wonder about what the options might be.
 
It has the same parts and dwindling supply problems
 
I'm no expert, but I'm told (IIRC) the factory is gone (not bought, gone), and parts availability is down as prices go up, with shortages in some key parts. With the large production, I'm sure there will be a strong after-market, but as I understand it, we will be at their mercy, or picking through bone yards. In any case, I'm not eliminating them as a possibility, just wondering what other options are out there, and how they stack up. If I find a 833/NP440 with GM bell pattern for a good price, I'll likely snap it up. Same for a NVG3500, 4500, 5600, whatever...
 
For a daily driver -- NV3500 is where it is at. The SM465 and NV4500 transmission both have too wide a gap between the gears for the diesel engine. I had an NV3500 in my old K5 and kicked the crap out of it offroad for 3 years without a single hint of failure. The fluid was still the same color as it went in, no glitter, no noises or shifting problems.

I pulled mine from an 04 Chevy K1500 with a 4.8L
 
I am sure you're gonna like the 6.2L :D They are not fast, but certainly get good fuel economy and are a joy to drive in their own fashion. My Tahoe ain't quick, but the diesel engine turns more heads than the solid axle swap, lockers, winch bumper etc
 
Well, I suppose it's over due for an update. Sorry to disappear, the week got hectic (and then some).

I guess I didn't do too bad. I finally got a chance to take it to emissions today. It blew 2.3 out of allowed 20% on the opacity test. And it still cranks easily enough cold or hot. So I guess that's not too shabby. When it cools off a bit more (still 108 today), and I get some free time, I'll pull the injectors and have them tested, but with that good on emissions, it's not too high on my priority list. The final timing was about 0.110 advanced from being aligned (no idea how many degrees that represents), so it's a safe bet the timing chain is stretched, so it'll likely get a new Cloyes timing set this fall too.

Next up, finding an OD manual trans I can afford (probably a long wait) and 2.73 geared axle. Right now the sweet spot feels like it's right about 50 mph. 65 on the freeway it's starting to scream like a banshee. The latter is by far the most practical cost and work wise, so far more likely for short term.

But the best past that now, after (apparently) several years setting, its a driver!

BTW, anyone know off-hand what the axle code is for a 2.73 and/or 3.08 rear might be? Gotta go searching before starting junkyard prowling...
 
Sweet, that's the sound of five bucks coming my way. With your luck, I knew I couldn't lose. It even blew as clean as I thought. Do I get extra credit (cash) for that too??

Anyways, the codes you're looking for are:

GU1 = 2.41
GU2 = 2.73
GU4 = 3.08
GU5 = 3.23

Ironically, I have to take my wife's truck through emisssions tonight. Want to call it to try and get your money back??
 
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