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6.2 Newbie - I'm ba-ack!

Not on a bet...

That's why I took the bet. I always loose, so I figured that's the only way I could pass the emissions test!

And thanks for the numbers. Is that the option code (glove box), or the housing code? I saw a few 10 bolts "loose" today, but didn't take the time to pop the covers. It was at Freds, and I don't pay their price if I don't have to. However, I did get a pristine shifter boot and chipped driver's frt signal (far better than ours) for $15 from them.
 
Those are glovebox codes. Best bet would be to pull covers til you find the ratio you want...plus get a good look at the guts before handing over any cash. I'd say ideally you'd find the ratio you want, and open. As you well know the Gov lock isn't the best option for the half ton stuff. My current 12 bolt has a Gov-lock, but you'd never know it driving it. One tire fire no matter what. My pick-up that is open gets sideways in the wet more often than the Blazer.

I find it funny that a vehicle as slow as a 6.2 pick-up can have such terrible traction problems when it rains a little.
 
True that! I'm just looking to avoid popping the cap on 15 different 3.73 axles, 6 3.52, 2 3.08, and finally find the first 2.75 with wallowed out pin. I seem to recall there is an axle tube code that indicates the OEM gear install. But before spending money, it'll get more than just inspection of the tooth count. And you are right, gov-loc is 100% OUT in a 10 bolt!

I just want tall gears and no hassle with little cost and effort. Is that too much to ask? Yeah, I know, for me, it'll never work out that way. ;) But right now this thing REALLY does not like running with the pack on the freeway, so somethings got to change in the next few months. Till then, she can just ease along in the right hand lane. Might even haunt Craig's List for a bit to see if I can find a beater donor cheap. Swap axles and resell, or part out.
 
BadDog said:
Not on a bet...

That's why I took the bet. I always loose, so I figured that's the only way I could pass the emissions test!

And thanks for the numbers. Is that the option code (glove box), or the housing code? I saw a few 10 bolts "loose" today, but didn't take the time to pop the covers. It was at Freds, and I don't pay their price if I don't have to. However, I did get a pristine shifter boot and chipped driver's frt signal (far better than ours) for $15 from them.
Click to expand...

I would have won anyways because it failed--and passed. It failed the fuel system pressure test, but I called BS and they retested it. It passed when they did it correctly.

Yeah, the U-Steal it yards that I gave you the info for run about $100-$120 drum to drum--even late model van-width 14FF's with low miles....

Rene called the numbers correctly as glovebox numbers--he's pretty smart--for a Canadian. I don't believe there to be a published schedule of tube numbers. I believe they are year specific, etc. Kind of like a Spicer BOM number. Changes from year-to-year, model to model etc. Once you get into the 'hood you'll be lucky to find one with a cover still on it, so gear verification isn't difficult--just make the first gear oil change shortly after installation.

Sweet on the boot. I wouldn't have guessed a score on that. What were they getting for their diffs up there?? Do they still require you to wear their lice infested hard hats up there??
 
Yeah, he's pretty sharp for a Canuck. Much sharper than your average AL red-neck (me).

I felt pretty lucky finding that factory boot. $15 for both pieces wasn't too shabby, particularly from that yard. And they wanted $200 end-to-end with them forking it out (or from the loose pile). But they also wanted me to unbolt, no blue wrench, and in 108* heat, I wasn't terribly motivated at this moment and for that price. And no, no lice farms required.

I may head down town tomorrow, but I'm feeling pretty tapped out at the moment. On the "must do" list for this weekend is to finish up the interior floors, flush the brake system, install the new master cylinder, remove the intake and stop my several leakers (caused by rotating the pump I expect).
 
This may help, or not...but my '81 Blazer rolled off the factory line with a 305, SM 465/NP 208 and a 10/12 under it. Gearing was 2.73.

3.08's you can find all day long, but 2.73's pretty much never under a rig with OD.

I know they're much less common, but look for early '80's 1/2 ton pick-up and 4 speed manual.

If I was you I'd probably just 'settle' for 3.08's and run a 33"-35" tire. The clutch will thank you. Having driven the 2.73/SM 465 combo with 33's I can tell you firsthand that "granny" gear becomes your regular first gear. Starting in second like you're supposed to gave me nothing but clutch chatter. At the other end, fourth was very similar to OD.
 
If the truck were without a functional axle, I would undoubtedly settle for a 3.08 if a 2.73 could not be found quickly and cost effectively. However, it functions quite well now, and the only down side is she will either have to drive slower, or pay more fuel. So I'll probably give it at least a few months of casual looking and hoping for a deal. "Good things come to those who wait" and all that (well, it's a shot at least). By then the weather will be cooler, and I'll be further ahead on other work pending (I can only hope).

And another goal is to stay away from premium size tires in favor of more economical main stream (cheaper!) LT tire sizes.
 
Well, she'll still be happy with the current mileage Russ. I'm sure you remember my old black Jimmy. 6.2, SM 465, 4.56's and 39.5" TSL's. Not the most ideal candidate for great fuel mileage, yet even spinning at ~2700 rpm on the highway still netted a trip average of 16.3 mpg.

I'd rather drive a 6.2 pick-up getting 19-20 mpg and keep the drivability, then try to gain another 2-3 mpg and make is more miserable to drive. Diminishing returns...

I re-read this thread and maybe I've missed it again, what gears does the pick-up have in it now?
 
Gear set is unknown. Glove box tag is gone and he has insufficient tools to pull the cover and inspect.
 
Seeing as it's a 1/2 ton with a SM 465 behind the 6.2 it's pretty likely to be either 3.08 or 2.73 already...

I can't wait until Russ is able to buy a 1/2" wrench and pull the cover off that diff. :flipoff7: Ratio is stamped on the ring gear edge.
 
tRustyK5 said:
Seeing as it's a 1/2 ton with a SM 465 behind the 6.2 it's pretty likely to be either 3.08 or 2.73 already...

I can't wait until Russ is able to buy a 1/2" wrench and pull the cover off that diff. :flipoff7: Ratio is stamped on the ring gear edge.
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No need, he just needs to lift one tire and mark the driveshaft and rotate one full turn of the tire and count driveshaft turns.
Knowing the numbers available I can bet 100% on the number I say using this method.
The only reason for opening the cover is to inspect the gears.
 
tRustyK5 said:
Seeing as it's a 1/2 ton with a SM 465 behind the 6.2 it's pretty likely to be either 3.08 or 2.73 already...
Click to expand...

I bet you're right. Speaking of that, hey Russ, double or nothing says you have nothing lower than 3.08's?? Think of the money and hassle this could save you!! :haha:

tRustyK5 said:
I can't wait until Russ is able to buy a 1/2" wrench and pull the cover off that diff. :flipoff7: Ratio is stamped on the ring gear edge.
Click to expand...

Yeah, funny thing is if he could get the numbers he could do the math in his head, but the technology to gain access to the items is limited, very limited.

imiceman44 said:
The only reason for opening the cover is to inspect the gears.
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Or to change out the gear oil sludge that is untold decades old and put some fresh lube in.

He's actually out working on it now which is why he hasn't come in here as the stern parent and quelled the fun we're having at his expense. He's probably waxing it or something :flipoff7:
 
mosesburb said:
He's actually out working on it now which is why he hasn't come in here as the stern parent and quelled the fun we're having at his expense. He's probably waxing it or something :flipoff7:
Click to expand...

Nothing more alluring than a fresh victim to fawn over, with your one wrench tool set. :D
 
if you pay shipping i can send you a 2.73 r&p or for an extra 10 bucks for labor i can send you two. =]

i have plenty of carriers too btw. shoot me a pm if you still need that stuff
 
Yuk yuk, laugh it up guys.
flipoff7.gif


It's all about priorities. Er, yeah, and the mystery you know. And, and, it might tear the gasket... And I would have to use part of one of the 3 gallons of gear oil I've got squirreled away. And, well, I don't have a good excuse...

BUT, I'll take the bet! It's possible that the 6.2 clatter is throwing off my my calibrated ear tachometer, but if that's a 3.08 in there, then I think it needs a 2.08 or so! ;) Works for me, loose the bet or buy/swap a rear axle, we both win either way! Now, lets how my luck is going fuggle this up for me... :o
 
Yuk yuk aside...the 3/4 tons and 1 tons all got the 4.10's with the 6.2 and those do scream on the highway. Being 1/2 ton and 2WD, unless the rear end has been swapped it should be 3.08 or 2.73. My '83 with the 700R-4 has 3.42's stock, but has OD of course. You gotta remember when these were new GM promoted them for their fuel economy, so they generally got matched up with favorable gearing. If I'm not mistaken the 1/2 tons also fell under CAFE so it was important to GM to have them at their best. The 3/4 tons and one tons didn't...so they got gears better suited for a 'working' truck.

oh yeah, my old Jimmy at 2700 rpm on the highway sounded more like 3700 rpm, so the ear tach isn't terribly reliable.

Lastly, try to imagine all those army grunts in the M1008's trying to maintain 55 mph. 6.2, TH400, 4.56's and 30" tires. Damn close to 3000 rpm (governed to 3600 rpm) so that's about the equivalent of turning a small block at 4500 rpm on the highway. It's no wonder they were all low mile...
 
Almost forgot to ask Russ...does that truck have the firewall sound deadener on the firewall? It makes a huge difference. My pick-up has it and it's actually quite quiet. My Jimmy being a gas truck originally, did not have it, or even carpet and it was deafening by comparison.
 
I really hope you are right on the gears, that would be great (even to loose the bet).

And it does have the sound deadening on the fire wall. It's missing one piece on the passenger side, but the rest is there. It also has the felt and tar paper stuff under the mat, as well as some extra add-on felt at some time. Then apparently they thought it was still a good idea to hose out the floor frequently. Under the lower felt/tar layer, a thick layer of clay/dirt had accumulated and started rusting the floors. That's been a big part of what we have been working on today, hopefully putting it back together tomorrow. Maybe then I can find that 1/2" socket...
 
Not much to add. It's now been in pretty much constant daily service since the previous posts. I still need lots of little non-critical items (cluster, dash pad, etc), but the basic truck is doing well.

Now that I got that monkey off my back (more or less), I've been concentrating on work around the house. Plumbing, new fruit trees, updates to irrigation, pool system, general repairs and paint, the list never ends...
 
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