CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

6.2 rattle

sreidmx

Fortify Offroad
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Oct 24, 2013
Posts
8,409
Reaction score
7,957
Location
Yucca Valley Ca
So last night I finished replacing the last of my return lines with good doorman lines, the badger diesel version I purchased were junk and wasted a lot of time.. never again!
Seeing that it idles normally now I can hear a rattle from the front of the engine, I laid under the truck for a while trying to see where it was located and I deduced that it has to be my timing chain, one thing I noticed that the engine speed would change ever so slightly as I could hear the rattle. It is somewhat inconsistent and may not be possible to catch on video because of the normal diesel clatter.
To me it seems rather obvious that it's likely a chain that is stretched?? By the way the water pump is new..
 
Sounds likely, there isn't much else that could rattle in that area...
 
does it go away when cold? where is your timing set? do you still have the check valve that screws into the IP for the return line.
 
I'm not sure what the ip timing is but I cannot advance it any farther because it's physically stopping, it does not change with temp at all it is apparent cold or hot.
I'm not sure about the check valve as I haven't had the return line off yet.
 
A long shot--it could be the lift pump...

I had a fuel pump on a 350 lose the little spring on the rocker arm that operates the diaphram,and it let it "clack-clack-clack" intermittently ,most noticeable at idle..

I almost replaced the timing chain & gears ,thinking the chain was slapping around--but closer inspection with a sounding bar to my ear on the fuel pump pinpointed that as the noise source,and clamping off the fuel hose going to the carb silenced the noise temporarily..

After I put a new fuel pump on ,no more noises...later on in that engines life I decided to replace the chain & gears anyway,seeing I had them,and didn't want to risk having an oem nylon cam sprocket failing somewhere far away...but when I got the cover off,I found a nice Cloyes double roller chain & gears,that was still tight..:doah:.had a battle getting the harmonic balancer off too!..

The 6.2 in my pickup sounds a lot like my clothes dryer when I'm drying a load of pants with metal zippers--sometimes more like a pair of sneakers ...hard to tell when a 6.2 is going to throw a rod,when it sounds like one is trying to come out since day one..:eek:..
 
Ok I actually was considering putting an electric pump on it so that'll be an easy swap to get rid of the lift pump.. maybe I'll get lucky and that'll be it..
 
The timing chain would need to be very loose to make enough noise to be heard over the engine running. If the rattle is more of a tick i would be looking at that injector pump. Another trick is to listen with someone mashing the accelerator. If it is a timing chain the sound should go away with increased rpm as tube chain speeds up.
 
Some 6.2's had that funky 2 peice harmonic balancer pulley with a rubber insert--those can get noisy after the rubber wears or chunks come off after many miles...

After listening to many 6.2 videos on Youtube,I guess mine sounds "normal" even though to me it sounds like it wants to come apart--especially on cold days after a cold start!..:eek:..
 
Some 6.2's had that funky 2 peice harmonic balancer pulley with a rubber insert--those can get noisy after the rubber wears or chunks come off after many miles...

After listening to many 6.2 videos on Youtube,I guess mine sounds "normal" even though to me it sounds like it wants to come apart--especially on cold days after a cold start!..:eek:..

Are you talking about the 2-piece flywheel that was used on some of the 6.5 engines? I don't think the 6.2s got those, and it wasn't long before GM ditched that idea entirely.
 
No,the harmonic balancer--I have one of the goofy 2 piece ones on my '87 parts engine that broke the crank,I'm not sure it looks exactly like this one I found on google images,might be more than one type out there...if it wasn't 15 degrees out I'd go take a picture of it!..

I think "Massboy" here on CK5 had a write up about replacing this type of damper on his Blazer a few years back..6.2 diese 2 piece balancer.jpg
 
No,the harmonic balancer--I have one of the goofy 2 piece ones on my '87 parts engine that broke the crank,I'm not sure it looks exactly like this one I found on google images,might be more than one type out there...if it wasn't 15 degrees out I'd go take a picture of it!..

I think "Massboy" here on CK5 had a write up about replacing this type of damper on his Blazer a few years back..View attachment 225386

2 pieces...as in a pulley and a damper? Looks standard to me. Was there another OEM alternative? Fluidampr doesn't count.
 
There is a "solid" damper that looks much like any typical gas one too--I think GM went with the goofy 2 piece type to reduce V-belt "flapping" and the noise transmission...however I think the '87 parts engine I have was a serpentine setup,I will have to look closer at it,I might be wrong..
 
There is a "solid" damper that looks much like any typical gas one too--I think GM went with the goofy 2 piece type to reduce V-belt "flapping" and the noise transmission...however I think the '87 parts engine I have was a serpentine setup,I will have to look closer at it,I might be wrong..

Please do, I am now curious. Our 1993 6.5 has the same style that you posted earlier.

I remember Massboy, his thread went dead after he finished the build. I think he went the Fluidampr route, but I'm not completely sure.
 
I think he posted he found an OEM new balancer for his 6.2...the 2 piece type...
 
My bet would be the damper (no matter which configuration). If the rubber is shot, there will be metal-on-metal contact - there are hard-stop tabs to keep the outer ring from spinning completely off (the radial arms hit the bolts).

If you're out of adjustment on your IP and the timing is not correct, replacing the chain will fix that. I have a timing light adapter I'd be happy to mail you and let you borrow if you want to check actual timing (light sensing type, not pulse sensing type).
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom