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6.2 to 6.5 swap is it doable?

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buff_dog70

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I thinking about purchasing a 6.5 non turbo motor with serpentine system from the junkyard, to replace my weak 6.2 non-turbo in my Jimmy.
Is this a easy swap? Will things bolt together easily?

If I get a 6.5 turbo to add on is it going to interfere with the A/C box that is up against the firewall?

Does the 6.5 non turbo vs 6.2 non turbo is there a big performance difference.
 
I thinking about purchasing a 6.5 non turbo motor with serpentine system from the junkyard, to replace my weak 6.2 non-turbo in my Jimmy.
Is this a easy swap? Will things bolt together easily?
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If the 6.5L is a 1993 or prior it's got a mechanical injection pump and therefore a super-easy direct swap. The engines are essentially the same on the exterior. If it's '94+ then you've got to have the computer, harness, etc, but the mechanical fitment would still be easy.

Does the 6.5 non turbo vs 6.2 non turbo is there a big performance difference.
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Without turbos, no.
 
y switch to a 6.5 when the 6.2 can run circles around the 6.5? the commen thing most guys do is put 6.2 heads on 6.5 blocks, mainly because the 6.5 heads r restickted heads and the 6.2 heads r wide open heads just, make sure that its a truck 6.2 and a truck 6.5, the van blocks r totally different, but u can put 6.2 heads on a 6.5 and vise versa. if u have any questions about what im saying check out www.thetruckstop.com and read all u can about 6.2s and 6.5s on there watch for post by missy goodwrenck, she knows her diesels. but u can squease a hair more power out of the 6.2s. now from my personal tinkering its true.
 
Indy4x4Fab said:
y switch to a 6.5 when the 6.2 can run circles around the 6.5? the commen thing most guys do is put 6.2 heads on 6.5 blocks, mainly because the 6.5 heads r restickted heads and the 6.2 heads r wide open heads just, make sure that its a truck 6.2 and a truck 6.5, the van blocks r totally different, but u can put 6.2 heads on a 6.5 and vise versa. if u have any questions about what im saying check out www.thetruckstop.com and read all u can about 6.2s and 6.5s on there watch for post by missy goodwrenck, she knows her diesels. but u can squease a hair more power out of the 6.2s. now from my personal tinkering its true.
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Wait a sec... why would RESTRICTED heads better than WIDE OPEN heads? Wide open = more air flow = more power.... right? :dunno:
 
yah that what it said, put 6.2 non restriced heads on 6.5 block, scrap the 6.5 restrickted heads.
 
Best Diesel Combo

For a naturally aspirated diesel, or turbo for that matter would be a 6.5 block (stronger cracking problem fixed from early 6.2 blocks), use 6.2 liter heads (for better flow characteristics), and you get the serpentine system so you can run A/C and on board air, and easier to maintain. Does the Banks Sidewinder kit fit on the turbo?
 
buff_dog70 said:
For a naturally aspirated diesel, or turbo for that matter would be a 6.5 block (stronger cracking problem fixed from early 6.2 blocks), use 6.2 liter heads (for better flow characteristics), and you get the serpentine system so you can run A/C and on board air, and easier to maintain. Does the Banks Sidewinder kit fit on the turbo?
Click to expand...

Really don't mean to thread jack but things on my list keep coming up here :D

So it IS worth the trouble to switch everything to serpentine while the engine is (mostly) apart then? What years are the troublesome "Early" 6.2 blocks?
 
All the serpentine stuff from the 6.5's bolts directly onto the 6.2 engines. Externally the blocks are identical.
 
i never have been to crazey about one belt runnuin everything so i got my hands on a set of military 6.5 pullies so i could run daul belts to my power steering and my alt. plus at that point theres never a chance of the belts slipping, or the belt failing and the water pump not being turned theres honestly so much that u can do to build the 6.2 in to a wild child of an engine that its stoopid, i mean mines a mil. 6.2 thats been rebuilt ported, studded, turboed, meth injected, and has gertaled, that if im not light on the gas in low low that i can acully make my drive shafts flex by power braking, as well as the brakes have a have hard time holding the truck back at 1000 rpm with 4 wheel disk breaks.
 
Doing some quick reading, I might have no choice but to do the swap. My AC stuff (that I would like to get working again some day) is on the passenger side, and I understand the serpentine swap moves the compressor on the engine from driver to passenger side too.
 
The reliability issues of the 4 belt system on the older engines and all those ajustments that have to be done and redone every time have always seemed to me to be a PITA compared to a serpentine setup. I would love to convert mine. With my 6.2 I get a lot of belt snap at low rpm and I seem to replace the alternator and AC belts about every other year (20K miles). I would expect a serpentine setup to go more than 20 K between belt changes.
 
i run kevlar v-belts they r a tad more money at twice the price of a goodyear belt but been running the same four belts four four years.
 
Where do you get these Kevlar belts Indy?

HMMWV pulley system eh...hrmmmmm...
 
...damn, never would have thought of that. Any issues with slippage or squealing?
 
I buy quite a few kevlar belts for riding mowers I fix up...they have a real tough outer "skin" thats like canvas and grips the pulleys well and dont slip as easy as a regular automotive belt....in a pinch last winter I put a regulat "industrial" belt on my 6.2's altenator,a B-46,that is 1/2" x 48",and it sat a bit high in the pulley,I was worried it might cause it to flip or derail,but so far its been ok--I also used one on the plow pump on my K-10 'Burb and that one sits high in the sheave too,I'm hoping it pans out because I used the pulleys that used to run the A/C compressor,and ALL the belts have to come off to replace it,as its the "last one : in the gang of 3...GM pulleys were designed to use automotive belts that are 7/16" in width and have a shorter overall height than "4L" or "A" series industrial belts,but so far the 1/2" ones seem to be holding up OK...and I noticed my voltmeter reads a good 2 volts higher now,so my old belt must have been slipping,plus the wider belt riding higher in the sheaves makes it turn a bit faster?...
 
If you current 6.2 is worn out and in need of being replaced or rebuilt, and you can find a good running 6.5, then do it.

Regarding performance between a 6.2 and 6.5 it really depends on which 6.2 you are comparing it to. There is a huge difference between a wornout 135 HP version as compared to a fresh 165 HP version 6.2.
 
This is exactly my current plan to repower the BigGriz. Nothing really wrong with the 6.2 thats in it, just alot of age. Im looking for a 6.5TD out of a 93 truck. these were the best year of the mechanically injected engines.

Jcode intake and heads from the 6.2.
Shortblock assembly from the 6.5 with hardblok up to the freeze plus.
Studs for the main caps and heads.
turbo from the 6.5
front mount intercooler
rebuilt and tuned up IP
marine spec injectors
fluid damper upgrade from stock

but havent decided, as i have no idea which is better, if i should run the 6.2 or 6.5 camshaft.

Id like to have a reliable, fuel efficient 250hp and 500lbsft, i think its doable with the 6.5 TD. seeing as they were 205hp and 440lbsft from the factory.
 
pm me back but i have two gm 6.5 turbos a gm5 and a borg warner, one turbo side exaust manifold, one non egr 6.5 turbo intake, and all oil supply lines and oil return lines, plus the down tub. might be willing to do some trading.
 
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