So I have an amazon gift card. I need to buy a gasket kit for my 6.2.
Can only find 6.5 gasket sets on Amazon.
Will they work?
Can only find 6.5 gasket sets on Amazon.
Will they work?
CK5
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6.2 vs 6.5 gaskets
- Thread starter blazinzuk
- Start date
I've only rebuilt one 6.x engine (and that was just a head job), but the upper gasket set was labeled as being for "6.5/6.2" engines.
I know the engines are very similar and basically the same. But that's not good enough when head gasket tolerances are involved.
You talk to a professional engine builder? They'd probably have better answers than your random internet friends.
No. Sometime ago I talked to a couple engine builders their 6.2/ 6.5 knowledge is substantially less than mine.
I have read that people use them. Only difference being a cooling port
I have read that people use them. Only difference being a cooling port
Alright, I did have that thought as I was posting that up. There isn't really a market for professional 6.2/6.5 rebuilds. I'd bet most engine shops are simply reading the GM factory manual and watching youtube videos. Just like anybody can.
I'm no expert,but a quick look at listings on RockAuto shows the same part number Fel-Pro head gaskets for a 6.2 & 6.5,and I "think" the cylinder bores are the major differences in the two engines (and the stroke?)..
Same part numbers for turbo & non turbo too..
They do list a head gasket thats .010 thicker for engines that had the block resurfaced..
I'm betting all the other gaskets are the same,but I didn't look every one up either--the 6.2's after '87 and 6.5's had one piece rear mains and a different oil pan "smile" gasket,I know..
Same part numbers for turbo & non turbo too..
They do list a head gasket thats .010 thicker for engines that had the block resurfaced..
I'm betting all the other gaskets are the same,but I didn't look every one up either--the 6.2's after '87 and 6.5's had one piece rear mains and a different oil pan "smile" gasket,I know..
Hey...is there any reasonable way to fit a 1-piece rear main seal to the older style of block? I'm assuming not, but I'm quite interested if it can be easily done.
I dont know if that is possible--my guess is the rear of the block is different for a one piece rear main,and you'd have to replace the oil pan too,they are different than the two piece seals..
I don't see the two piece seals being all that troublesome,I dont see that many being replaced--but I have seen quite a few one piece rear mains in other engines leaking and have to be replaced..which requires pulling the tranny or engine...a two piece can be done "in the truck",with some patience and one of those "chinese finger" tools..
I don't see the two piece seals being all that troublesome,I dont see that many being replaced--but I have seen quite a few one piece rear mains in other engines leaking and have to be replaced..which requires pulling the tranny or engine...a two piece can be done "in the truck",with some patience and one of those "chinese finger" tools..
Well, I've never had a 1-piece 6.2 block, so I have no first-hand data. But I keep hearing that 1-piece seals last longer, and that 2-piece seals are crummy at best. All 3 of my 6.2 engines leak oil out the back. And I'm currently doing a tranny swap right now. So I would happily install whatever seal works most effectively if they were compatible. But I'm assuming they're not.
What is the "chinese finger" tool? I was under the impression that this job could be done with basic hand tools (my tranny & flywheel are out right now, so I have access to both sides).
Headgasket have minor but important differences, there are a few different gaskets/o-rings for the thermostats, and the rear main seal is either 1 or 2 pieces. Other than that, it's all the same between the GM built engines.
David
There's a coolant passage on the rear of 6.2 heads that is not present on the 6.5, and folks that have put 6.5 head gaskets on their 6.2 headed engines are prone to a weeping coolant in that area around #7 and/or #2. As well, the 6.5 gaskets have a tacky film on them, thought that's not critical. I sprayed my Fel-Pro 6.2 gaskets with a light coat of tacky copper to achieve the same effect.
David
David
This is the tool you can snake in a rear main seal with (2 piece ) ,by just removing the oil pan and rear main bearing cap...doing one with the engine out is a lot easier..
I must be lucky,only my rotted oil pan leaks on my pickup,and so far the suburban is dry at the rear main--after sitting several years though,I wont be surprised if it starts leaking,if and when I ever go to drive it..
I must be lucky,only my rotted oil pan leaks on my pickup,and so far the suburban is dry at the rear main--after sitting several years though,I wont be surprised if it starts leaking,if and when I ever go to drive it..
My engine is in the truck right now, but it has no tranny or flywheel. So how is that different from having it out? The back end is accessible, I'd think it would be easier than trying to do it on an engine stand.
Lying on my back with oil dripping in my eyes isn't as much fun as leaning over an engine on a stand...
...but yeah,I wouldn't yank the motor out just to do a rear main...
...but yeah,I wouldn't yank the motor out just to do a rear main...
6.5 gaskets will work and they lower the compression ratio a little so that helps with boost.
Lying on my back with oil dripping in my eyes isn't as much fun as leaning over an engine on a stand...
I have the tranny out and the trans. tunnel removed. I can sit up on the ground behind the engine (with my head sticking into the cab) and get pretty good access to the rear end. The crankshaft & flywheel bolts are at a good arm height. I'm thinking I'll have good enough access to the rear main from this position (once I get the oil pan out of the way, of course).
The results of this experiment will be posted in my thread when I get to that part of the build.
I don't believe that there's a conversion from 2-piece to 1-piece rear main on these engines. I replaced the rope on my 6.2l with a neoprene Fel-Pro and it seems to be working great. It was a much easier job than I thought, although I had the pan and front covers off anyway for my serpentine conversion. If you're not familiar with the Right Stuff, get some. The hardest thing has been getting used to a dry undercarriage on my truck
Don't forget to throw a new oil pump in while you're there (cuz why not?).
Don't forget to throw a new oil pump in while you're there (cuz why not?).
is it worth doing? The oil pump that is?
Good point Keith better go pick one up
We will see how much they are. But its typically on a redneck rebuild like this a good item to replace
