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6.2 What's it good for? Just about everything.

So far flogged the crap outa this on two trips maintaining 70mph with no overdrive and zero issues and only using 1/4 tank for the 75 mile trip.. by my calculations that's between 3.75-4.0 gallons because when I fill it I usually only get 14-16 gallons in the truck when it reads empty.
 
I'll put this out there.. so I've actually been super abusive to the ol 6.2 lately.. is hasn't blown up.. and I mean really revving it out in every gear hard sometimes.. so at this point I don't know what to do.. it's gained some major respect from me because not all engines like that and tend to show signs of not liking it pretty quick..
I think I am going to do a leakdown and compression test, and pop the oil pan off and see if there is any obvious cracking and if not I'll check a main and rod bearing for wear.. any other places I might check?
 
sreidmx said:
I'll put this out there.. so I've actually been super abusive to the ol 6.2 lately.. is hasn't blown up.. and I mean really revving it out in every gear hard sometimes.. so at this point I don't know what to do.. it's gained some major respect from me because not all engines like that and tend to show signs of not liking it pretty quick..
I think I am going to do a leakdown and compression test, and pop the oil pan off and see if there is any obvious cracking and if not I'll check a main and rod bearing for wear.. any other places I might check?
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Check the harmonic balancer for looseness and replace the rear main seal (conveniently built into the rearmost main bearing cap so you can kill 2 birds at once).
 
Should I put a timing chain and gears while in there? Or do I have to pull the front covers off for that?
 
Don't bother check the harmonic dampener just change it out , it's cheap insurance.

I have seen 300,000 mile 6.2/6.5 engines that still had good timing sets , but again it's cheap insurance
 
I may just check the chain, I recently did the water pump so I'd like to not disturb the sealed cover again because it was such a pain to get to. But I'll swap the damper for sure while in there.
 
Yea.. plus that Ls motor was too good to be true and as I looked at total cost it gets outa hand quick with no donor truck to pick from. I'm looking to find a holster rebuild for this he351cw now and going to maybe put the studs in the heads and stud girdle if the motor checks out..
 
yellowK20 said:
Don't bother check the harmonic dampener just change it out , it's cheap insurance.

I have seen 300,000 mile 6.2/6.5 engines that still had good timing sets , but again it's cheap insurance
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I've never heard of a timing set breaking on these, but they do stretch. It's more of a lost performance issue - I have a timing light adapter for these engines (light sensor type) and I know that my chain was beyond spec (.750" delfection) and I was out of timing adjustment because of it.

Anyway on these engines (assuming solid fuel delivery from tank to injectors):

They crack heads between the valves and most people will never know it.

They crack the main bearing webs and most people never know it.

They leak oil and everyone knows that.

Rarely but occasionally the crank does let go...you'll know. :deal: :yikes:

I put Fluidamprs on my 6.2/6.5 - not cheap but I don't worry about rotted dampers either. If I ever break a crank I'll let CK5 know.
 
GWeakland620 said:
I don't know how, but my 6.5 does not leak oil.
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They don't all leak, at least not much. Yours has higher quality gaskets and, very cool, a one piece rear main seal. Most years of 6.2 engine had 2 chunks of rope shoved behind the rearmost bearing cap. Far from ideal.
 
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