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6.2l Diesel guys

K-5 Bomber

1/2 ton status
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thinking of going this route, but I heard that the leak bad. What's your experience with this engine? Also, I'd be looking at the Banks turbo aftermarket down the road. Any info on this mod?
 
in terms of leaking, they're like every other engine out there. if they have a bad CDR valve (basically a VERY large PCV valve) and for the same reason as a gasser w/ a bad PCV.
 
I would say if you want a turbo then go with the 6.5 with the factory turbo. I think the compression on a 6.2 is a little high to add a turbo reliably. If you want some real power go with a 5.9 cummins swap. That would be sweet. Huge after market too.
 
My 6.2 has some leaks, but its also 25 years old. typical stuff, valve cover gaskets, and oil pan gasket. nothing major, i dont have puddles either on or under the engine or anything like that. id say its probly due for a major rebuild though due to mistreatment by the PO. This summer i hope to be able to do a rebuild, and install a rebuild pump and injectors.

I do am debating a turbo install, either banks, or a 6.5L turbo from a junkyard setup.

On the note of power, i will also agree that the 6.2L is not a performance engine. I love mine, and i feel it drives like a truck should. its fast ENOUGH, has ENOUGH torque for almost all the driving i do (on and off road), and for daily driving, will accelerate and merge into highway traffic without incident. and i cruise at 60-65mph and get 21mpg. (with 3.08 gears, 33in tires, and no overdrive) If youre looking for power, the 6.2/6.5 should probly not be on your list.
 
If youre looking for power, the 6.2/6.5 should probly not be on your list.

I'd have to disagree with that statement, but that's another debate.

The shape of the valve cover gasket surface makes it vulnerable to bending and subsequent leaks, but if you can make an old style (non-centerbolt) SBC valve cover seal you'll be just fine with the diesels.

I've been told that "The Right Stuff" gasket maker is better suited to/more effective with diesel fuel than regular gasket maker. I used it because I didn't want to try more than once, and I have zero leaks. Time will tell. Also, the "right stuff" is about five times as expensive as silicone gasket maker.

The factory turbo is an easy bolt on, but some creativity is required
--The factory 6.5 downpipe will not work with the 80's frames, plan on a new one. I custom made my own.
--The 6.2 oil cooler lines are a more reliable design than the 6.5 quick connect ones, but barely/don't fit behind the driver's side turbo exhaust manifold. I heated/re-bent mine, but it was a major pain.
--If you have factory a/c, plan on some serious remodeling/fabrication to get the HVAC box on the firewall to clear the turbo. Some use the S-10 box, which is a major pain to make fit the inside stuff, others remodel the stock box. either way it's a pain.

Head bolts are one time use, replace with ARP head studs--they don't cost a lot more and you can re-use them. Re-using the original bolts will result in failed head gaskets.

Inspect the main bearing webs on any block you buy, they tend to crack along the outer bolt holes. A girdle kit is a good idea to prevent cracking.

All that said, once you find a good running diesel engine, it'll last a lifetime with proper maintenance and you'll love the torque. :D

Good luck with the decision . . .
 
Anyone who says these things lack power hasn't had any experience with one properly geared for it's tired. Most of the slow and low power rumors seem to come from all the 3.08 geared half tons. Any truck with 3.08 gears is going to be slow irregardless of the engine.

Mine leaks out of the front and main seals but again, they're original 1986 issue and the truck sat for long amounts of time. The word I've gotten is that the leaks aren't a big issue until they get VERY frequent and drop a large amount. As stated above modern gaskets fix the issue. Mine doesn't leak enough for me to worry about right now but if it gets worse or I decide to upgrade/rebuild the engine I will handle it then.
 
just to clarify, when saying the 6.2/6.5 engines arent performance engines, i am comparing them to modern Duramax/Powerstroke/Cummins engines. If someone is putting out similar power with one of our old Detroits, id be all ears as to how it was done, and probly be taking notes. also i am one of those people with 3.08 gears (and 33in tires and no turbo), so perhaps my opinion is stated in ignorance of the engines true potential.
 
just to clarify, when saying the 6.2/6.5 engines arent performance engines, i am comparing them to modern Duramax/Powerstroke/Cummins engines. If someone is putting out similar power with one of our old Detroits, id be all ears as to how it was done, and probly be taking notes. also i am one of those people with 3.08 gears (and 33in tires and no turbo), so perhaps my opinion is stated in ignorance of the engines true potential.
search arveetek's posts in the diesel forum. ;)
 
I wouldn't say a 6.2/6.5 can be bumped up to Duramax/Powerstroke/Cummins levels but then again those are medium truck engines wedged into light duty trucks. These engines are light duty truck diesels doing what they were intended to do, compete with gas engines of their day.
 
6.2 and 6.5's I believe were all the same compression until the very later years (98/99 and 00 for some of the express vans). In the later years they were bumped in the vincinity of 430-450tq.

Leaks? YEah, they all leak.. a little... but that comes with age. All of the old rubber isnt so good. New seals are good.

6.2's are light duty diesels, and as such, do rather well. They even start up in really cold temps that other diesels quit, due to its 20+ compression ratios.

Weak area is the bottom end, and harmonic balancers. Save the 500, get the fluid balancer.
 
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