If youre looking for power, the 6.2/6.5 should probly not be on your list.
I'd have to disagree with that statement, but that's another debate.
The shape of the valve cover gasket surface makes it vulnerable to bending and subsequent leaks, but if you can make an old style (non-centerbolt) SBC valve cover seal you'll be just fine with the diesels.
I've been told that "The Right Stuff" gasket maker is better suited to/more effective with diesel fuel than regular gasket maker. I used it because I didn't want to try more than once, and I have zero leaks. Time will tell. Also, the "right stuff" is about five times as expensive as silicone gasket maker.
The factory turbo is an easy bolt on, but some creativity is required
--The factory 6.5 downpipe will not work with the 80's frames, plan on a new one. I custom made my own.
--The 6.2 oil cooler lines are a more reliable design than the 6.5 quick connect ones, but barely/don't fit behind the driver's side turbo exhaust manifold. I heated/re-bent mine, but it was a major pain.
--If you have factory a/c, plan on some serious remodeling/fabrication to get the HVAC box on the firewall to clear the turbo. Some use the S-10 box, which is a major pain to make fit the inside stuff, others remodel the stock box. either way it's a pain.
Head bolts are one time use, replace with ARP head studs--they don't cost a lot more and you can re-use them. Re-using the original bolts will result in failed head gaskets.
Inspect the main bearing webs on any block you buy, they tend to crack along the outer bolt holes. A girdle kit is a good idea to prevent cracking.
All that said, once you find a good running diesel engine, it'll last a lifetime with proper maintenance and you'll love the torque.
Good luck with the decision . . .