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6.5 TD/NV4500 conversion into 73-87 full size?

Aftermarket is the only safe way to go about it. The S10 air box is a ton of work to install, and doesn't work as well as you might think either. Lots of false rumours floating around about it being almost an exactly fit, which it most definitely is not!
 
I think we have a winner with the Vintage Air kit!

Per the ad, they have a smooth firewall after the install. Looks perfect! - Sean

Vintage Air Sure Fit air conditioning, heating and defrost systems for ’73-’86 Chevy trucks are designed specifically for each application. We match the coil and blower to give you the maxi- mum amount of comfort in your vehicle, greater air flow than your OEM system provided, and still retain the factory look inside your vehicle. Factory non-air system heater controls are used.
The All-In-One Kit For Your Classic Chevy!
EVAPORATOR KIT: Air conditioning, heating and defrost combination designed specifically for your vehicle. Original non-air control assembly in your dash connects to and controls this unit. Designed to mount to exist- ing holes in your dash and firewall without drilling* or fabrication. Evaporator kit comes complete with all mount- ing brackets, hardware, louvers, duct hose, wiring harness and installation instructions.

COMPLETE KIT: All above plus condenser and drier package. Attaches to existing radiator mounting holes. No drilling* or fabrication required. Comes complete with condenser, mounting brackets, standard drier, pre-formed aluminum lines and mounting hardware.
NOTE: Some installations may require additional engine pulleys not included with kits. See page 61 for options.
1973-86 Chevy/GMC Truck SureFitTM System Features: -Mounts behind dash. -A/C exits through
dash vents. -Floor exit heat. -Dehumidified defrost. -Smooth firewall.
 
this is a good working install of a 6.5 turbo diesel th400 205 in a crew cab

P1030009.jpg

P1030011.jpg
 
FWIW, I have vintage air in my '70 and I'm in the process of removing it. The system works great in the summer, but I hate it in the winter. It seems no matter what I do, I can't keep the windows from fogging up or ICICNG on the inside!!! You have to adjust the thermostat for summer or winter, but ti still seems to run the compressor quite a bit. That kills the heat output but still doesn't keep the windows clear. The system is recirculate air ONLY. I've had my truck and its fat block in all sorts of weather from 4000ft to 14000ft elevation and down to -5deg... I'm done with the hassle after only 10 years. And yes my engine will hold 195 degrees in the winter, it takes a bit to get there, even when parked in a heated garage which makes the fogging slightly worse. I know you have a clearance problem but I wanted to give my experience.
Dave
 
What if you just unplug the compressor during the winter? There's no way to suck outside air into the heater?

Sean
 
Sounds like you've got a cool project ahead of you! My in-laws live in West Linn, pretty close to the Chevron. Perhaps I could take a gander at what you've got going next time I'm in town! :wink1: I lived just across above old-town Oregon City until I moved to Ashland 2 years ago.
 
The control lever will turn the commpressor off but still put air out of the defrost ducts if pulled back from defrost some, but that still won't keep the windows clear. As far as I can tell, the main reason for the windows fogging is that the system is all in the cab so there is no way for it to pull fresh air. I wish I had some help with your clearance issue but I don't believe you would be happy with a system of this style in the winter. The way the fan housing is positioned, it would need a housing that comes down towards the passenger footwell, then sharply up and over to the kick panel vent.... Yes, I know I need to get and post some pics, but I never claimed to know how to work this electronic stuff!!! Maybe you already can see what I mean about the fan intake from their website?

Dave
 
Sure, we've met, it was a few years ago. I think you were doing a brake job on your inlaws car at the time? I sold my black '87 K5 and traded up to a beige '91 SM465.
 
So, do you think it's something that could be fixed with an application of dryer hose, tin snips and duct tape? :-)
 
sharbour said:
Sure, we've met, it was a few years ago. I think you were doing a brake job on your inlaws car at the time? I sold my black '87 K5 and traded up to a beige '91 SM465.
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You're right, I remember now. :) They don't live at that house anymore tho.
 
In my '70 the ducting options to get to the vent would not be easy, at least with the thoughts that go through my head. I don't know how much more different the '73+ trucks would be with aftermarket systems.
 
So I got the vintage air box out of my truck this week and realized that my memory is as bad as I thought!! The air intake to the fan is on top of the box, towards the glove box and the fan motor. I would suspect that their system for '73+ trucks are the same??? I don't know what the bottom of the cowl area is like on your truck,but I am wondering if there is a possibility of connecting up to the bottom of the cowl vent area and making a custom glove box. In removing the system from my truck, I was reminded how much of a pain it is to have all four hose connections so close to each other and basically inside the cab. I do have to admit that I only had one heater hose leak in the cab and never had to recharge the A/C in ten years but only 36K miles. Is it possible to move the engine forward some to gain some clearance or does that make too many problems up front?
 
That would put your engine into your radiator, there are aftermarket turbochargers available that will work with the stock air conditioning box and they are not too terribly much more expensive than it is to piece together a 6.5L turbocharger system, especially when you factor in the cost of exhaust work.
 
turbo

i have been reading your post with great interest. as i am in the process of collecting parts to convert my 89 burb diesel to a 2500 with an nv4500. and i have been looking into turbo charging it. and i have found out you don't have to stick the turbo up at the engine, you can install it in what they call a remote location downstream on the exhaust, which is very interesting,because it solves two problems space and the need for an intercooler.yes you get a little turbo lag but we are not running 1/4 strips,this might be something you want to look into,
i had seen an spot about it on TRUCKS tv show, on the series about supping up a ford lighting/chevy 454SS

hope this helps

later Paul
 
Woot! On track again with my K5 diesel conversion.

All right! I'm about a year behind, but I'm making up time fast now. I've got pretty much all the parts I need from a donor '88 6.2 'Burb, and I lucked out and found a complete aftermarket under the dash AC at one of the local pick-n-pulls from an '83 delivery truck. The Blazer is going under the knife this afternoon, and I should be driving it in a month or so. Does anyone have any turbo tips for the GM8? It would be really nice if the boost could come in a few hundred RPM lower.


sharbour said:
Okay, I found a couple of 6.2 'Burbs in the local wrecking yard for parts. Here's my shopping list so far:

6.2 radiator and shroud.
6.2 wiring harness
6.2 driver side exhaust manifold
6.2 power brake system
Late 80's tilt/cruise steering column
S10 A/C firewall box

It's the last that has me concerned. Does anybody have any suggestions on how to relocate the A/C box to make room for the turbo? I'd rather not delete the A/C, the significant other gets really cranky when the inside temps go over 100F. :thinking:

I looked at some S10s. The A/C box is a little smaller than the one on a full size. It still looks like I would have to move the box toward the passenger fender, and possibly turn it sideways, deal with bending the lines, etc, which also means making a new box out of fiberglass. Sounds messy. Is there a better way?
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