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6.5 Turbo Question
- Thread starter 396 TransAm
- Start date
A couple auction tips.
Always get shipping quote before bidding. The container with motor is about 1500 pounds. YRC Freight is usually the cheapest freight.
Keep in mind, the average rebuilt long block Optimizer with no accessories averages around $5500–$7500. All said and done around $2500ish shipped to your door, you could rebuild it yourself for about another $1000-$2000 depending what needs done to it.
If you get a lemon Optimizer that has no cracks in the block, you are still sitting in good shape because after getting the cylinders honed or sleeved you can easily sell it complete for $8,000+ and make some profit from it.
Also that shipping container can be resold for around $200-$500. Or be used to do engine test runs or hold other motors as the mounts are the same as a 350-454. Those center mount heads can resell for $500-$1000.
Always get shipping quote before bidding. The container with motor is about 1500 pounds. YRC Freight is usually the cheapest freight.
Keep in mind, the average rebuilt long block Optimizer with no accessories averages around $5500–$7500. All said and done around $2500ish shipped to your door, you could rebuild it yourself for about another $1000-$2000 depending what needs done to it.
If you get a lemon Optimizer that has no cracks in the block, you are still sitting in good shape because after getting the cylinders honed or sleeved you can easily sell it complete for $8,000+ and make some profit from it.
Also that shipping container can be resold for around $200-$500. Or be used to do engine test runs or hold other motors as the mounts are the same as a 350-454. Those center mount heads can resell for $500-$1000.
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I am going to bid on the 6.2, but not for the dually. I will save it for the CUCV when I finally get around to its restoration. It does look brand new and it is close enough for a road trip pick up.
I won the engine for 1005.00. Going to pick it up in Michigan tomorrow. Anyway, back to the ambulance issue.
I finally got it in the shop and started T/Sing. The coolant system is definitely getting a gas charge. The coolant reservoir is burbling which screams head gasket, or cracked head/block. Strange however that there is no smoke and the engine runs fine and no loss of coolant and oil is fine. Also, I did the coolant carbon test and the result is negative. The test fluid did not change from blue to green. So, what the heck is going on with this thing ???
I finally got it in the shop and started T/Sing. The coolant system is definitely getting a gas charge. The coolant reservoir is burbling which screams head gasket, or cracked head/block. Strange however that there is no smoke and the engine runs fine and no loss of coolant and oil is fine. Also, I did the coolant carbon test and the result is negative. The test fluid did not change from blue to green. So, what the heck is going on with this thing ???
Looks like cracked heads and/or cylinder. Looks like it’s time to pull the motor, take it apart and find out exactly what’s cracked.
Cracked heads can be repaired fairly cheap if you diy. Cylinders… not so much…
Congratulations on winning the bid! Here’s some helpful advice!
1. Pick it up. Do not touch the motor yet! Do not turn the crank yet. It has been sitting for a very very very long time! There is no knowing what is inside the intake port holes. Turning the crank pre inspection may cause debris to drop through the valves.
2. At home and still on the crate box, Remove glow plugs and remove intake manifold. Use shop vac, flathead screw driver and razor blade to clean around the intake port holes.
3. With flashlight or mini cam, look in the intake ports and make sure they are clean of dirt, dust, sand, leafs, rust. If not, you will need to take the whole motor apart and rebuild it. If clean, use shop vac and suck out the glow plug holes to remove any possible debris in the combustion chamber.
4. Turn crank with 24mm long socket 360 degrees. Making sure motor is not seized. If seized, rebuild motor. If not seized, you can proceed with new G60 glow plugs, fresh oil and oil filter, prime oil and test run it on the create box for no more then 10 seconds to check compression in each cylinder with cool down time per cylinder compression check. Yes! Check the compression! It is a must do! 400+psi is a new clean and healthy cylinder. 380+gently used and good. 360+is moderately used and good. 340 or lower is heavily used. 320 or less, rebuild time
5. If everything said above checks out, I would replace every seal and gasket on the motor, bomb proof the motor, slap a turbo on it and call it good!
1. Pick it up. Do not touch the motor yet! Do not turn the crank yet. It has been sitting for a very very very long time! There is no knowing what is inside the intake port holes. Turning the crank pre inspection may cause debris to drop through the valves.
2. At home and still on the crate box, Remove glow plugs and remove intake manifold. Use shop vac, flathead screw driver and razor blade to clean around the intake port holes.
3. With flashlight or mini cam, look in the intake ports and make sure they are clean of dirt, dust, sand, leafs, rust. If not, you will need to take the whole motor apart and rebuild it. If clean, use shop vac and suck out the glow plug holes to remove any possible debris in the combustion chamber.
4. Turn crank with 24mm long socket 360 degrees. Making sure motor is not seized. If seized, rebuild motor. If not seized, you can proceed with new G60 glow plugs, fresh oil and oil filter, prime oil and test run it on the create box for no more then 10 seconds to check compression in each cylinder with cool down time per cylinder compression check. Yes! Check the compression! It is a must do! 400+psi is a new clean and healthy cylinder. 380+gently used and good. 360+is moderately used and good. 340 or lower is heavily used. 320 or less, rebuild time
5. If everything said above checks out, I would replace every seal and gasket on the motor, bomb proof the motor, slap a turbo on it and call it good!
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@2INSANE
Thanks for the tips. I will definitely will do as you have stated. I have an Olympus borescope that I do aircraft engines with. I will use that for the inspection. There is a sticker on the box that says 'Overhauled Apr-2000'. Not sure if that is accurate or if these motors get swapped into different crates with little traceability.
The engine has some crazy pulleys and exhaust manifolds that look more like headers. Possible that this was set up for something other than a CUCV ??
Thanks for the tips. I will definitely will do as you have stated. I have an Olympus borescope that I do aircraft engines with. I will use that for the inspection. There is a sticker on the box that says 'Overhauled Apr-2000'. Not sure if that is accurate or if these motors get swapped into different crates with little traceability.
The engine has some crazy pulleys and exhaust manifolds that look more like headers. Possible that this was set up for something other than a CUCV ??
Don’t trust the stickers on the box or motor. I have a optimizer I’ve been working on for a year now that had a sticker saying it got rebuilt in 2012 and it ended being a lemon with sand in the motor, melted glow plugs, incorrect bearings etc.
Do you have any numbers on the casting of the block to identify what year and block casting it is?
Some older humvees/hummers had the 6.2 diesels in them. Those exhaust manifolds are the best you can get if you decide to not put a turbo on it. But you might have some frame clearance issues if you decide to try and run them.
Ok, thats good news on the exhaust manifolds. I want to turbo, but am way to new to these things to even imagine starting that now. I will uncrate it this weekend and post the casting numbers.
I assume you work on these things for a living? What kinda money do you charge to go through one and turbo/bullet proof it (based on it wouldn't need a major O/H)?
I assume you work on these things for a living? What kinda money do you charge to go through one and turbo/bullet proof it (based on it wouldn't need a major O/H)?
4-5 days a week I am the Yellowstone National Park Recycle Manager for Four Corners Recycling in Bozeman. Mostly just driving truck, crane work, swapping bins and dumping bins. Easy work.
On my days off I enjoy working on others Squarebody trucks and help the local 6.2/6.5 diesel owners with any maintenance they need. Not greedy. Only $60hr is what I charge. Most diesel shops are $140+ hr.
After you inspect the motor and find out if it runs good, I can give you a formula of bomb proofing the 6.2. It’s easy stuff you can do.
So I finally got around to taking some photos of the 'NEW' 6.2. The casting number is 14022660 which is believe is the normal number for all CUCVs from 82-91. The date code looks like maybe a C 207. Would that be Mar 20 1987? Would the serial numbers help to identify anything notable about it?
Also, it has this crazy free spinning aluminum hub on the front of the 4 groove water pump pulley. Is that some sort of air pump and if so does that mean it was not installed in a CUCV?
Also, it has this crazy free spinning aluminum hub on the front of the 4 groove water pump pulley. Is that some sort of air pump and if so does that mean it was not installed in a CUCV?
I forgot this picture.
The fan clutch means it was a HMMWV engine. You have to give a shot of air into the threaded hole to line up the bolts for removal.
There should also be some identification marks on the block next to the injection pump driver side. See pic. Sometimes it’s covered with paint and you will need to wire brush the paint off to see it. Here’s a couple example pictures and a link explaining what the markings mean.
www.dieselhub.com
Being a 1985, it should be at 160hp @3600 RPM and with 275 torque @2000 RPM. Adding a turbo should get you at 200+HP :-D
6.2L GM/Detroit Diesel Specs & Info
6.2L GM diesel specs, history, and information. The indirect injection (IDI) 6.2 diesel was manufactured by Detroit Diesel and used in GMC and Chevrolet fullsize pickups for 1982 to 1993 model years. The 6.2L diesel's characteristics were tailored toward fuel economy, rather than performance...
Being a 1985, it should be at 160hp @3600 RPM and with 275 torque @2000 RPM. Adding a turbo should get you at 200+HP :-D
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Chamfering the main bolt holes 1/8”, filing the sharp edges and edges on the starter mounting area and adding a girdle will bomb proof your lower end. Fluidamper would help but is not necessary if you check your harmonic balancer every oil change. The deeper you go down the rabbit hole, the longer your 6.2 will last and handle more power.
18:1 pistons if you want to go above 12 psi boost on a regular.
18:1 pistons if you want to go above 12 psi boost on a regular.
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So, what is it called and what does it do?
It is the fan clutch. The HMMWV should have it engage at 225° Fahrenheit. When it engages what little power you might have has is now gone.
I am just having trouble figuring out why it is drilled and tapped for what appears to be a pneumatic fitting.
The fan clutch you have engages with compressed air. Some models are hydraulically controlled. It will not work for your vehicle as it is too long and will hit your radiator.
There is about a handful of parts you will need to take off your take-out 6.2 and replace them with your old motors parts. The fan clutch is one of them.
These items will most likely need to be swapped from your old motor or replaced with new civilian parts:
Oil pressure sensor, ESS gear drive for the tachometer where the vacuum pump should be (Nice to have if you upgrade to a serpentine belt system so you can have a Tach), intake manifold, crank pulley, exhaust manifolds, cold advance idle sensor, temperature sensors, glow plugs and possibly the IP as it would be 24volt (Can be converted to 12v by removing the top cover and replacing the solenoid inside the cover with a 12v one)
After you are done determining if you have a good motor or not, take out your old motor and put them both side by side and look at the differences. Swap over the differences.
The parts you take off and do not plan on using, you can sell them on eBay. I am sure a fellow enthusiast would love to buy them for their Humvee.
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Ok, thanks for the info. This is just my side project right now. My priority right now is swapping the 6.5 from the '94 ambulance to my '94 dually. Appreciate it.
