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6 inch lift and a dana 60

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burban1500

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Lavallette, NJ
im going one ton and am undecided about how to correct my steering. What are you guys running with your dana 60's and 6 inch's of lift. I know i need the steering block riser but what else? Where do i buy these parts from. Also im looking to go as cheap as possible, no crossover. I talked to steve from ord and his setup with the steering riser, drop pitman arm, and stud kit would run me almost 250 without the shipping. Arent their cheaper options than that

Question 2- im going to be running 15 inch rims and am unsure if a 10 inch wide rim will create more caliper grinding than a 8 inch rim would.
 
When I did my one ton swap I ran out of $$$ so I put on a riser block and drop drag link and it was flat out scary. The truck was so loose and was almost impossible to handle when driving down the road. I know some people have been succesful I think in running that setup but crossover is worth its weight in gold. Even with crossover its no sports car but you could not pay me to go back to the typical push pull setup. I understand that money doesnt grow on trees and where you are coming from but if it was me I would wait till I could afford crossover steering
 
with the crossover, does that mean i need a different steering box?

And also what u joint do i need for the front driveshaft
 
burban1500 said:
with the crossover, does that mean i need a different steering box?

And also what u joint do i need for the front driveshaft
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U joint is the same for 10 bolt or Dana 60. As for the crossover you need the sector shaft from a 2wd steering box. If you have a 2wd box that is the same style as the one you have you can swap them out. By style I mean flare fitting or oring fittings.

I wanna say that 1980 and later have the oring fittings but I am not 100% for sure on the year.

Dick
 
For your rim question it is more a function of back spacing and not rim width. A 10" rim with 4.25" backspacing is gonna need as much grinding as an 8" rim with 4.25" backspacing, the 10" rim will just stick out farther past the fender.

To require less grinding you need less backspacing. Several guys on here run 2.5" backspacing and say that very little grinding is required. I run 15X8 with 4.25" backspacing and I ground for almost 4 hours.

Dick
 
I used an S shaped drap link until I went with the crossover. With it I had the typical "turns better to one side" gripe. Save up and go crossover.
 
for the slight difference in price its a no brainer to go right to crossover. Push pull flat out sucks.
 
crossover for the best. if not then drop pitman arm . i had 6" lift and 60 frt and only ran a 4" drop arm with no problems. i had a 3" block for a short time and didnt like it at all.
 
One way to eliminate the use of the riser block and still retain the factory front-to-back draglink steering is to get a steering arm from a Dodge and send it to Kert to have him weld the taper hole up to redrill the taper on the opposite side to match the GM arms.

I'd do the Dodge arm and a Skyjacker drop pitman arm if you're wanting to retain the stock steering geometry.

Otherwise go crossover if you don't plan on using your sway bar.
 
no offence, but is this a joke?

you swap do a dana 60, which in its own right is at least 750-1200 bucks for 90 percent of the people who buy one, and you coplain about 250.00 for a nice steering set up, not to mention your add on complaint was the shiping? lol

That is like buying a house and complaining that the blinds, yard decore and cealing fans are not at give away prices. it comes with the terratory.

Im sure you knew before you bought the d-60 that such parts would cost what they do, not to mention at 250.00 that is a cheap price for cross over. both times I have purchased it for a 60 from trevor at WFO, one set up was 350 for every thing, the other was a high steer beefy set up for just under 500 or 600.

I would feel its a joke or a waste of time to do it twice and wast the money on a block and studs or a drop pitman arm. if its that much of a hassel wait untill you can afford it and leave the current axel in place..at this rate im sure a locker for the 60 is a while off anyways.
 
honestly i can afford the crossover **** now its just that i was looking to go cheaper. I paid 750 for the 60 and 14ff with 4.56's i just wanted to know if their was a cheaper option that works decently other than the crossover setup. If i do decide to go crossover can somebody tell me exactly what i will need to find as far as the steering box deal goes

Is any1 running the riser and drop pitman arm from ord, if so how does this setup work?
 
burban1500 said:
honestly i can afford the crossover **** now its just that i was looking to go cheaper. I paid 750 for the 60 and 14ff with 4.56's i just wanted to know if their was a cheaper option that works decently other than the crossover setup. If i do decide to go crossover can somebody tell me exactly what i will need to find as far as the steering box deal goes

Is any1 running the riser and drop pitman arm from ord, if so how does this setup work?
Click to expand...

What year is your rig. That determines what box you need as I posted once already.
 
go crossover.i tried the drop arm and steering block on my 8" lift.wheeled it once.i now have crossover on the way for it and it will be on it before i take it out again.
 
burban1500 said:
honestly i can afford the crossover **** now its just that i was looking to go cheaper.
Click to expand...

if you can afford the crossover then you answered your own question. why waste money on a temporary fix when the real solution is just a few dollars away.
 
i also have an 89. my steering box was on its way out so I bought a new 2wd steering box for an 89. If you do not want to purchase a new steering box, you can just swap the sector shaft out of the box you have now and swap in one from a 2wd box.
 
On your 89 you should have the lator o-ring style sttering box, the main differance is the high pressure line, you can however swap parts from one pump to the other to make is the o-ring or the pre-81 style.

the best route, for the time and effort to swap a sector shaft go to a junk yard and look at your 1 ton box service trucks or crew cabs, some of those trucks you can find alot of rebuilt parts on or reman parts. I found a complete box nice tight with no leaks and fresh reman a few years back, 20 bucks later that sucker was mine!:D Just poke around and you might get lucky. Or post up here, ive sold a few sector shafts to other members on here.

My main point is that doing it once is always nice, also with cross over when you have a tire compress under flex it tends to get less input from the steering. without cross over, the drag link moves and renders your steering all but useless! for the price of the steering block and studs plus the new superlift pitman arm you are a 1/3 or 1/2 way there. Its nice piece of mind to, hell paint it a bright color and you can smile evertime it catches your eye:D

I would call up ord, sky or wfo.

I personally have bought 3 set ups from wfo, or was it four:confused: at any rate I really really like his customer service and trevor treated me right, 3 of the 4 times the part shipped the day ordered it, and one of the times I goofed and gave a bad measurement, he sent the other one my way before he recieved the return. Another time he mailed the parts before the money order was in his hands and I made my dead line because of it. He treated me nice even when I was a cocky 17 year old, nice parts, nice prices, great service and he will have my business again even if he is not the cheapest.:thumb: :thumb:
 
nobody would have taken the time to design and make crossover steering if steering blocks and crap worked when flexed. Just do it right and order the ORD stuff.
 
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