Oh yeah, I've always liked those last 2 covers. Orange would be my choice.
CK5
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64 Vette….Rebuild 2.0
- Thread starter 76zimmer
- Start date
Made some progress today on the shortblock. Painted a few parts, had to run to the hardware store for a few bolts.
@folkenheath FYI…the ARP bolt kit for the oil pan isn’t a very good fit for this Moroso pan. The flangebolts are nice, but the larger corner bolts hit the sump part of the pan. Rather than dimple the pan, I got smaller allen head bolts for the corners. Also FYI, The Moroso pump/pickup assembly has the mounting stud included. The timing chain bolt kit was spot on for the Milodon cover.
I Had to tap the dipstick hole in the pass side of the block for a pipe plug. The Moroso stroker pan only uses a screw in dipstick for a drivers side access. The pump pickup to oil pan clearance was spot on @ just under 5/16”.
I used a thin smear of RTV on the fiber gaskets to hold them in place and help seal the timing chain cover, fuel pump plate, and water pump. For the balancer, I put the timing cover in place and installed the bolts loosely to allow the balancer to help center the seal. Using a balancer installer, (as recommended) I put a thin smear of antiseize on the inside of the balancer, and some oil on the outer seal surface and I drove it home until it bottomed out against the crank timing gear, then tightened down the cover bolts. Hopefully all of this will prevent any leaks….I hate leaks!
@folkenheath FYI…the ARP bolt kit for the oil pan isn’t a very good fit for this Moroso pan. The flangebolts are nice, but the larger corner bolts hit the sump part of the pan. Rather than dimple the pan, I got smaller allen head bolts for the corners. Also FYI, The Moroso pump/pickup assembly has the mounting stud included. The timing chain bolt kit was spot on for the Milodon cover.
I Had to tap the dipstick hole in the pass side of the block for a pipe plug. The Moroso stroker pan only uses a screw in dipstick for a drivers side access. The pump pickup to oil pan clearance was spot on @ just under 5/16”.
I used a thin smear of RTV on the fiber gaskets to hold them in place and help seal the timing chain cover, fuel pump plate, and water pump. For the balancer, I put the timing cover in place and installed the bolts loosely to allow the balancer to help center the seal. Using a balancer installer, (as recommended) I put a thin smear of antiseize on the inside of the balancer, and some oil on the outer seal surface and I drove it home until it bottomed out against the crank timing gear, then tightened down the cover bolts. Hopefully all of this will prevent any leaks….I hate leaks!
In this case I would do black, to sandwich the block with black
If they fit over the rockers, I'd say these valve covers. 
Painted orange and use fine grit sandpaper to clean the rib surface off so they look like these
I'd say just get those, but they're are like $670 on flea bay.
Painted orange and use fine grit sandpaper to clean the rib surface off so they look like these
I'd say just get those, but they're are like $670 on flea bay.
the heads and intake are aluminum, and theyre not getting painted black!
I didn't even notice that lol
It would be cool if you could be fittings TIG welded on the backs of those covers and do a remote breather. I know your dealing with smaller engine bay so maybe that's not feasible. I'm also making an assumption you can TIG cast aluminum.
I wouldn't touch the aluminum heads.
They add the light touch
Not out of the question….I know I wouldnt even try tigging on aluminum, especially taking the chance at screwing up a set of valve covers, and also I’m thinking those valve covers would also need a separator/baffle inside to help control oil getting vented out of the engine.
These Edelbrock covers dont have the baffles inside and the K&N breathers do a good job of controlling the mist, but there is a bit of oil residue when you grab them, that would eventually drip onto the valve covers and make a mess if I didn’t clean them periodically, and its mostly been short drives or a few trips down the strip. In addition the crankcase is vented by a passage on the back of the block (thats the way they did it on these old 283/327 blocks) that allows less pressure being passed through these valve cover breathers I have on the 355. I want something that’s cleaner on a more long term service cycle.
L82 used the same valve cover as an LT1. The L82 was the smog LT1 replacement.
Martin
Right on Martin!
It wasn’t bad for 1974. Had a rumpy hydraulic cam and big valve heads, and no cats yet. With 3.55 gears and the 4 speed it was a satisfying car to tour in.
It wasn’t bad for 1974. Had a rumpy hydraulic cam and big valve heads, and no cats yet. With 3.55 gears and the 4 speed it was a satisfying car to tour in.
Everyone dogs on mid 70's Corvette, but that was the small block everyone wanted to build.
Four bolt mains, forged crank, flat top pistons, aluminum intake, 2.02 valves.
Martin
Four bolt mains, forged crank, flat top pistons, aluminum intake, 2.02 valves.
Martin
Excellent assembly work Dave, I am glad to see the attention to detail continue.
Looking great too, I like the black, orange, and aluminum paint scheme.
I’m partial to the black myself.
@fastazz81 After seeing your engine pic on your thread, it’s a good look, I had to save it for reference.
I worked on making a timing indicator tab. Not real sold on the ones I’ve seen until they get into the 60$ + range. Figured I could make one.
So started out making a piston stop and a temporary pointer for the balancer, to verify true TDC, then confirmed w a dial indicator . Now I’ll make a bolt on indicator to give a good timing mark.
I worked on making a timing indicator tab. Not real sold on the ones I’ve seen until they get into the 60$ + range. Figured I could make one.
So started out making a piston stop and a temporary pointer for the balancer, to verify true TDC, then confirmed w a dial indicator . Now I’ll make a bolt on indicator to give a good timing mark.
I like your use of old hooks from bungee cords.
I use a few in my garage for multiple tasks including holding pieces of shelving units while i was assembling
Nice work Dave, I like to check with a real piston stop, not just an indicator, but I like how you have it in the center.
I could get you one of these for around $35, aluminum adjustable with stainless hardware.
I could get you one of these for around $35, aluminum adjustable with stainless hardware.
Heath I did use a bar across the cylinder w a bolt in the middle for a stop . The dial indicator was set to 0 after I figured the piston stop on each direction of rotation.
I’m on vacation headed to ARKANSAS again for a couple weeks, will try to work on the indicator when I get back. Not sold on the adjustable ones right now.
I’m on vacation headed to ARKANSAS again for a couple weeks, will try to work on the indicator when I get back. Not sold on the adjustable ones right now.
