CK5
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64 Vette….Rebuild 2.0
- Thread starter 76zimmer
- Start date
A CDI box replaces the ignition module so if you don't have a CDI box you'll need an ignition module, or a points setup.
Can you borrow a different CDI box?
Can you borrow a different CDI box?
This one…https://www.msdignition.com/products/distributors/chevrolet/pro-billet_distributors/parts/8572
A CDI box replaces the ignition module so if you don't have a CDI box you'll need an ignition module, or a points setup.
Or an HEI dizzy?
I suppose I can fish the one out of the car.
If you have an HEI distributor that could work too just for what you are doing.
Finally got the starter block down to where it’s in spec to where the starter gear/flywheel gap is about .025-.040.
My .020 wire is plenty loose and I can’t get an .045 wire in the gap. Musta made 10 trips to the sander. Used a disc sander w a table so it came out pretty flat…+/-.003 from one bolt to another…much closer than it measured beforehand.
Had to remove about .060 to get it in spec.
Instructions say it’s common with aftermarket blocks.
Pulled the HEI dizzy out of the CCDRW 454. Cleaned it up a bit and stabbed it in. Cap and rotor look great from the tuneup from 2011…
Fuel pump/rod from previous 355.
Got some wiring to do, opinions on this setup in the pic…
My .020 wire is plenty loose and I can’t get an .045 wire in the gap. Musta made 10 trips to the sander. Used a disc sander w a table so it came out pretty flat…+/-.003 from one bolt to another…much closer than it measured beforehand.
Had to remove about .060 to get it in spec.
Instructions say it’s common with aftermarket blocks.
Pulled the HEI dizzy out of the CCDRW 454. Cleaned it up a bit and stabbed it in. Cap and rotor look great from the tuneup from 2011…
Fuel pump/rod from previous 355.
Got some wiring to do, opinions on this setup in the pic…
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Pulled the HEI dizzy out of the CCDRW 454. Cleaned it up a bit and stabbed it in. Cap and rotor look great from the tuneup from 2011…
Fuel pump/rod from previous 355.
Got some wiring to do, opinions on this setup in the pic…
View attachment 515952
The extra switch on the left seems redundant but shouldn't hurt anything.
Don't forget to ground the coil on the HEI to the engine with the ground terminal.
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Edited for a revised wiring diagram, and highlighted gap measurement on the starter pinion.
I only see a batt and tach terminal? The coil is grounded under the coil cover, and goes to the module plug.
Isn't ground made through the mounting clamp on the dist? I can run a separate wire if need be?
I only see a batt and tach terminal? The coil is grounded under the coil cover, and goes to the module plug.
Isn't ground made through the mounting clamp on the dist? I can run a separate wire if need be?
The yellow and red wires from the coil go to double blade terminals. That is, coil - and tach are the same thing. Coil + and ignition are the same thing. 2 different connectors tying those nodes together at the coil.
When you plug in the 3-way connector, those three wires (including the black ground wire) are going to the module inside the distributor. So ultimately, the body of the distributor is the ground for the coil, module and condensor.
When you plug in the 3-way connector, those three wires (including the black ground wire) are going to the module inside the distributor. So ultimately, the body of the distributor is the ground for the coil, module and condensor.
It depends, if you have removed the ignition module and condenser for a CDI box (which I pretty much always do for my toys) then you need to ground the center coil ground to the engine to complete the circuit.
If the distributor plugs back into itself like Luke mentions then you are good, I forgot about that since I haven't used a stock HEI in 30 years.
If the distributor plugs back into itself like Luke mentions then you are good, I forgot about that since I haven't used a stock HEI in 30 years.
Yes, its a factory HEI out of my old 76-454. Running when pulled.
I have 12 v supply to the “batt” terminal of the cap, nothing hooked up on the tach terminal.
Im not getting spark at the plug???
Sounds like something is wrong, this with the new plug wires and plugs? Is the 3 prong connector from the coil housing to the dist plugged in? Did you verify the 12V?
If all that is correct then there has to be an issue with the module, or pickup, or the coil, cap, or rotor.
Might be back to pulling your CDI box out of the vette?
The new MSD Ultra CDI boxes are really small and easy to hide, but kind of expensive.
If all that is correct then there has to be an issue with the module, or pickup, or the coil, cap, or rotor.
Might be back to pulling your CDI box out of the vette?
The new MSD Ultra CDI boxes are really small and easy to hide, but kind of expensive.
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I just checked the cap and rotor before installing.
Module wires are plugged in, It was all working 10 years ago…lol
I’ll take it apart to see if anything is obvious.
I need to find a way to test those components.
Module wires are plugged in, It was all working 10 years ago…lol
I’ll take it apart to see if anything is obvious.
I need to find a way to test those components.
You should be able to measure the primary and secondary coil resistance.
I don't know how to test the module.
I don't know how to test the module.
First of all, verify that you have 12V not just with key on, but also during crank. 
If you don't have a ground wire from the distributor body to block or chassis, that might be worth trying. I definitely agree with measuring resistance of the coil.
Another common issue is a bad or missing carbon button for the rotor, or the little spring that goes under it. If you already measured the coil secondary, you can measure from ground all the way to the tip of the button and it should be greater, but still ball-park the same reading.
I can't remember ever trying it, but you can probably test the pickup coil by routing it to a DMM set to AC volts and you should see a few volts while cranking.
Another test for the coil would be to put a test light on the tach terminal and see if it blinks while cranking.
If you don't have a ground wire from the distributor body to block or chassis, that might be worth trying. I definitely agree with measuring resistance of the coil.
Another common issue is a bad or missing carbon button for the rotor, or the little spring that goes under it. If you already measured the coil secondary, you can measure from ground all the way to the tip of the button and it should be greater, but still ball-park the same reading.
I can't remember ever trying it, but you can probably test the pickup coil by routing it to a DMM set to AC volts and you should see a few volts while cranking.
Another test for the coil would be to put a test light on the tach terminal and see if it blinks while cranking.
Checked the voltage at the batt terminal and read the same as the battery about 13.2. I watched a bunch of videos and tested the coil, and a few other HEI coils I have and it seems they all test good for primary and secondary ohms. I checked the pickup wiring per a video, and that checked ok. I suspect the ign module, or perhaps the magnetic pickup and pole piece as its heavily rusted. Anyhow, looking at this old distributor and its old wiring, rusty internals and just worn out condition I decided to pull out my oem distributor that was converted to Pertronix and worked well other than timing bounce at higher rpm. Im going to install that next and see what happens. I have a new MSD coil to use w it, and will give that a shot.
On another note, the starter engagement sounds great, so one step forward, two steps back!
On another note, the starter engagement sounds great, so one step forward, two steps back!
Got the oem plugged in and wired w the MSD coil.
Filled up the bowls, squirted a good shot down the carb and cranked, fired, stall, repeat.
It just wanted some RPM and more fuel. Ran for a few seconds, and when it died I stopped the video then adjusted the idle up and restarted it and ran about 30 seconds at probably 2500rpm. Heads and block were warm. After several minutes off they were quite warm!
Happy to hear it make some noise!
Thanks @folkenheath for all the assistance with the parts and pre assembly work.
Filled up the bowls, squirted a good shot down the carb and cranked, fired, stall, repeat.
It just wanted some RPM and more fuel. Ran for a few seconds, and when it died I stopped the video then adjusted the idle up and restarted it and ran about 30 seconds at probably 2500rpm. Heads and block were warm. After several minutes off they were quite warm!
Happy to hear it make some noise!
Thanks @folkenheath for all the assistance with the parts and pre assembly work.
