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64 Vette….Rebuild 2.0

I will definitely let ya know if I head up that way.
Last year, we got the car everything ready and loaded.
Next morning, went to back the rig out of the shop and there was a trail of brake fluid. Guess I lost a rear brake cylinder?
Wouldn't believe the mess brake fluid does to coin flooring... anyway called it a day and missed the event... still haven't pulled it out of the trailer.
Probably should get out there and fix it one of these days.
 
Topside welding pretty much done. I will dress things up better once all the fab and welding work is done.
It takes my amateur self a while to prep all the steps before welding. Some really nasty welds I ground out. Some are left in place, but have been strengthened close by. One of the A arm brackets had some particularly crappy welds, and I know the underside is even worse in places.
I want to replace the trans crossmember with a fabbed up piece of my doing. Hope to make it easier to take out, and make it lighter than the bulky factory piece.


Heres a typical, “close is good enough” factory weld…

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I welded in a recommended plug to a odd shaped hole at the steering box mounting. Ground it down so the box fits flush.
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Here I ground out the shock tower bracket weld….and also added weld to the main rail seam.
Then ground down a bunch of plops and spatter.
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A arm bracket weld ground out and replaced.
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Pass side shock tower rewelded, ground out some main rail seam weld (see above for the before) and replaced.
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Lots more sticth welds filled in between factory welds.
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This one looks odd to me.
Is it me, or is it too high on the bracket..? :dunno:
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Maybe it's the angle, but it looks like it should be down here.
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Camera angle is a bit deceiving, maybe these side profile pics help?
I cut the old welds out and left the shape as shown approximately in a yellow line.

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You know…it is comforting to know that if all this late 2020’s stuff doesn’t work out I could build/steal a time machine and go back to the early 60’s and weld for GM.


WAIT…
 
Yeah, way better from that angle lol.
The other pics don't show the curve in the bracket, which it what threw me off :waytogo:
 
Ive been spending days in the shop but not accomplishing much. My fab skills suck so my thinking to a solution is in creeper gear sometimes.
But I did grind and reweld several joints and trying to figure a few fabbed (and scrapped) pieces. New trans crossmember, including the supporting point for the trans mount in front and a driveshaft hoop in back, all while taking into consideration the shape of the floor pan. In addition, new vertical braces and horizontal braces tying the rear kick up to the main crossmember and the side rail to the main as well. Later frames had these areas reinforced more than my early frame. Also need to figure out seatbelt anchor point to the frame while considering floor pan intrusion, and rear driveshaft hoop mounting…again, the floor pan. The oem driveshaft was 2.5” dia. and now it’s 3”. The new yokes allow 1330 joints compared to 1310’s. The driveshaft tunnel is very tight already.

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Time to get back at it…ready for the lineup of excuses?
A few weeks of traveling to see some years gone by friends and a couple of my sibling brothers, friends in FL. @tarussell and @nvrenuf, my daughter and her family, more frequent medical visits and care for Mom, PT for me, and an upcoming hernia surgery (getting old aint for sissies) I got to try and get some time in on this thing again…so:

Frame flipped for bottom side repairs and strengthening.
The repairs made to this frame (not original to my car) were haphazardly done before I bought it at a swap meet for $250.
I think I can improve some of these welds and add some gusseting in areas suggested by the Chevrolet Power book from 1984.
This frame had the manual crossmember (welded in place at the factory) cut out and removable auto trans crossmember added. I will be replacing that assembly with a new crossmember with removable center section and bolt in trans mount as well as a front driveshaft loop.

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I can see why you are fixing some of those welds...:yikes: I know you will make it right Dave.

Those shocks are going to work awesome, you will really appreciate the double adjustable when you get to the track and then can turn it softer for the street with just some clicks.
 
Yeah it’s been an eye opener this time around. I didn’t have the experience or tools to do this stuff 40+ years ago. Hopefully I can improve the strength of the frame.
 
Actually a softer launch is preferred to help prolong the life of U joints, and differential. Once it’s rolling, bring on the power 3000 and up!

Going through the stages with the burb, it came to mind that for drag racing, in some cars it would maybe actually be beneficial to have a converter a little too tight for the cam.
Just because it'd launch soft at the tires, and come to life shortly after the mass is rolling.
:dunno:
That was the way my truck acted anyway. With the stock converter. (2400-2600)

With a lighter vehicle that was prone to blow the tires off the hit, I'd think it could work.
 
You would think on a flagship car from GM the quality of welds would be a lot better than that.

Anyway glad to see you back on it!
Take it easy Dave! And happy Easter!
 
Happy 62nd birthday today for my Vette, as it’s scattered all over in 4 different areas of shop and barn.
Not much getting done in the shop lately, spring has sprung here so getting back into yard work and mowing, chasing moles and getting the Duramax back out of storage.
And lots of life issues going on w mom and granddaughter.
Just had hernia surgery yesterday so I’ll be down for a bit more so I decided to buy some goods for the frame…replacement pieces for the dented and mangled engine crossmember and side rails.
As well as a steering and suspension rebuild kit, and a new body mounting kit.
Happy birthday!

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