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64 Vette….Rebuild 2.0

Well its been a few minutes.
The last couple weeks have had me concerned. After flipping the frame and deciding to cut out the siderails, I started measuring to keep from screwing this up. BUTTTT, it seems things are a bit wonky. Ive got twist, and out of square measurements going on here. Factory tolerances on these early frames had a big window from what I read, but I cant believe this couldn’t be much better. These bodies were glued together in a standard jig setup and were considered ready for assembly to the frames. The frames had more tolerance issues and were measured using a standard body to frame jig and shims were made to fit each location on the frames. The frames had marks added to let the assembly workers know how many to add at each mount.

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As I said earlier, this frame has had a minor impact at some point, and its part of the reason for replacing the siderails.
Unfortunately I didn’t measure any of this before starting the heating and welding steps. It was just going to be improvements on the factory welds, but the snowball started rolling.
The frame fit the body quite well before separating them. I’m not sure if it was this out of shape then or if it happened sometime between the sandblasters and heating/welding steps.
I also know that this car likes to wander a bit over 100mph, like a little bit floaty, but also a bit darty. Ive questioned the steering box being an issue, so thats been blueprinted. Manual steering is set on the tight response links in the tie rod. Maybe frame tolerances are enough out to cause it as well?
So this all leads me to looking for a way to square it up, bring the measurements closer to the blueprint specs, and have a good foundation for the rebuild, soooo….
Kert is full time in his shop again. He builds race cars, and a bunch of other stuff. We talked, for about an hour…He said he’d be glad to help get it straightened out! Fawesome!
He has a 1-1/2” thick frame table big enough to build a full tube chassis on. I’m still on weight restriction from my hernia, but only for two more weeks. After that I gotta wait for Kerts table to be open….he has a front frame and suspension job on it right now that he just started on.
In the mean time, Ive taken a bunch of measurement, and will try to set the body on the frame again and see where there may be issues with the frame.
A laser level makes checking all these check points from a datum line much easier. Frame is leveled side to side at the main rear crossmember, and front to back leveling varies on the siderails, so its a bit of a compromise front to back. Another good reason to get it on a frame table to get more precise measurements.

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Made some custom body lift straps. Cut down some 27’ers (where did that random length come from?)
Had a friend w a commercial sewing machine sew them to 4’. That should be enough to hook under the birdcage and loop over the arm riser and lift the body about 3’ off the ground. Enough to clear the frame, then I can set the body on the frame and then lift them both up by the bottom of the frame and do some measuring.

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Looped around the riser, this will happen at all 4 arms.

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I will need to heat these hooks and spread them open some more so they won’t hit the fiberglass.

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I’ll have to put some padding around the straps.

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That won't put too much pressure on the welt there in the body line ?.
Guess it is pretty strong there.
My paranoid azz would be worried about that, or the bottom lip ripping off from outward pull. Lol.

I know nothing about the structure of a vette body though either lol.
 
The birdcage is the inner structural that the body is bonded to. Where that strap is, is a strong part of the firewall/fender area. That rocker channel is pretty strong for this lifting.
There are body strap lift kits sold that use a single central pickup point. I wasn't comfy about that as I was using my lift for 4 point lifting.
I’m basically lifting this birdcage….

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With the body hanging on.

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I didn't even know about the bird cage deal...
Guess it makes sense that there's more structure than fiberglass lol
 
Interesting fact…in 1976, corvettes had steel floors…why?
 
YEs on the cats….although 75 models had a single cat as well, in 76 the tune was made leaner and engine allowed to run hotter creating even more heat in the cat and the engine compartment. It was a necessity to have the metal floorpans to withstand and also provide a better barrier to the heat.
 
Heath hooked me up w double adjustable shocks w coil overs for the front.
My old springs were rated at 550#/in. They were an over the counter “gymkana” racing spring. They were firm but not harsh.
The new coil overs springs are 375#, and will be tunable for street and strip use.

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A arm reinforcement to be welded to the lower control arm, giving a solid mounting for the bottom of the shock.

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Hardware kit, including bigger bushings for the rear shocks to mount to the factory shock mount studs.

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375# rated

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Those are great shocks. The range of adjustment is very good, and the double adjustable on all 4 corners really allows you do dial in for the track and then just click it back to softer for the street. I just count the clicks from full tight and then write it down to return to the different modes. I usually leave the rebound for track mode and just turn the compression all the way out for the street.
 
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