CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Wanted 6x5.5 to 8x6.5 adapters

fourwheelerjeff

I spend too much time here
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Nov 16, 2001
Posts
7,135
Reaction score
7,530
Location
SW OK
looking for a set of 4 wheel adapters to go from 6x5.5 to 8x6.5
 
was going to put them on my Toyota buggy so I could run 8 lugs on all the rigs
One of mine sheared the bolts apart with the 40’s on it in under 2 yrs.
They were loctited, torqued, and well maintained. So be aware.
 
One of mine sheared the bolts apart with the 40’s on it in under 2 yrs.
They were loctited, torqued, and well maintained. So be aware.

I've noticed most are 2 piece adapters. maybe I will just stick with my 15's and Iroks
 
I looked into something like this from a "redrill" the hub for the new pattern before. The issue is the patterns put the lugs too close together to the point of not having enough material to remain structurally sufficient. I would not recommend them as a mechanical engineer.

1765837098226.png
 
I looked into something like this from a "redrill" the hub for the new pattern before. The issue is the patterns put the lugs too close together to the point of not having enough material to remain structurally sufficient. I would not recommend them as a mechanical engineer.

View attachment 518808
I am still considering the Redhill option but I would be plugging the old holes with weld
 
In that case, I don't see an issue. The welded holes lose some strength, but not as severe as two holes close together.
My thought was to cut the stud flush and weld it around better than filling the whole..what are your thoughts?
 
You will still have the head on the back side to deal with holding the drum/rotor. That won't work. I would insert a piece of copper rod halfway into the hole, weld up one side. Then, remove the copper and weld up the other side.
 
You will still have the head on the back side to deal with holding the drum/rotor. That won't work. I would insert a piece of copper rod halfway into the hole, weld up one side. Then, remove the copper and weld up the other side.
I was suggesting shaving both sides.
I figured less welding, and regular metal in the hole instead of brittle hard weld.
And no drum, I am going disk brakes.
Oh and I am going backwards, 8 lug to 6 lug
 
Technically, your weld will not be brittle unless you forget to turn on the gas, and I would not recommend stick or flux core either. The weld material is stronger than the base material most of the time, the weak point is the heat affected zone of the base metal. You lose 20% of the strength in that region. However, if you leave something in the hole and weld it shut, you don't gain much strength where the two parts are not welded together internally compared to filling the hole with weld.
 
I have a set but not sure they fit yota. They don't even fit a GM axle. In less older yota hubs are smaller.....
 
Swap full widths on the toyota, run 8 lugs without spacers. Problem solved and safer!:pimp:

actually after reflection probably just going to sell this one as well. I can't take but one at a time to wheel. I'm getting older and want to enjoy life more. right now I am looking at keeping 6 wheeling rigs but that may change tomorrow
 
actually after reflection probably just going to sell this one as well. I can't take but one at a time to wheel. I'm getting older and want to enjoy life more. right now I am looking at keeping 6 wheeling rigs but that may change tomorrow
A rig for everyday, and rest on the sabbath!
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom