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70 Jimmy--Rusty Rebuild

Ground down the center and the driver's side. Close enough for filler work now. The far edge still needs some grinding, got tired of being bent over at an awkward angle...will finish that when the body comes back off. Under the steering column I might do a small piece as well.

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Moving on to the top edge. The kit came with 3straps, two at 36" and one at 12". Not sure where they each were supposed to go. If I had left the hump in the middle, the 12" wouldn't have been long enough to go all the way over it. As it is now, I'm sort on the one side.

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After a few hours.

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Going to clean up the front edge and see how it looks. Not looking forward to doing the inside corner. If it looks decent enough I may leave it or get it low enough for a coat of seam sealer.
 
Cleaned up the front edge. It's not perfect, but it's close enough for filler when I get that far. Have one low spot towards the driver's side. Not too worried about it. From the front of the truck you can't notice it, only really visible from the side.

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In preparation for lifting the body off, picked up some hardware. The bedside and inner fenders have only been held on by a few bolts since I installed them. Figured it'd be a good idea to fully bolt them together.

The bolts I had used originally were normal hex heads, not correct. Got some grade 5 zinc plated fasteners. Remembered to measure and order long ones for the body mount at the step up panel but totally forgot to get some for all the other body mounts.

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Each one went in after a nice whack with the hammer. Wasn't sure if they'd spin or not...they didn't so I was able to use the pinch lock nuts on all of them.

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Slid the top forward as well. I'd like to take it off again but the next step after the body goes back on will be a roll bar. Want it on so I know it (and the soft top) will still fit.

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Few days ago I moved the Jimmy to the other side. Was pouring rain so I shuffled if around inside so I didn't get it all wet.

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Decided to take the top off after all. Got some quotes for tube and they were way more than I'm willing to pay right now. I have other things I can do in the meantime while prices hopefully stabilize.

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Today was nice enough to get out there and open the doors up. Made some braces for the firewall. Will probably tie into one of the body mounts behind the stepup panel as well. The door gaps didn't move when I lifted it by the frame, but I'd like to lessen the chance of things shifting when the body is off.

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Lifted it up to get at the body mount nuts.

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I've got a good idea of how I'll pick it up. Plan to lift from the rocker boxes and underneath the bed floor. Will use some 2x10's and 2x8's to spread the load.

Don't know when I'll be on this next. Work season is going to be starting in a week or two. I'll be on the road for the most part with (hopefully) Sundays off. Even if I'm not on the road, we do 14hr days so not much gets done during the week.

I did order some big ticket items, when those show up I'll post them.
 
Nice that your top fits above the door. That's a handy out-of-the-way spot.
 
Nice that your top fits above the door. That's a handy out-of-the-way spot.

It just sneaks in up there. I'm probably over the weight limit on the kayak hoists I'm using...think they have a 150lb limit on each one.

The top isn't in horrible shape, but it's not great either. Hatch handle is torn out and one of the supports is missing. Don't want to store it outside or get rid of it just yet though.


Got an email from Summit this morning, one of my items got pushed back to a ship date of middle of August. Not to happy about that.
 
Was able to get out there one more night this week.

Finished up some extra bracing inside the tub. Was going to do some elaborate wooden structure underneath to lift it with. Decided to just lift from the rocker boxes. The tub can't weigh more than about 1000lbs. With some 2x8's spreading the load I went for it. Biggest concern was the balance point of it.

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Turns out, it's surprisingly stable from just lifting there. I did put the pole jacks under the back though.

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Either my bracing is working or the tub is nice and solid because the doors work perfectly still. When I go to work on the firewall/floor I'll move the frame out from under it and to the other bay.



Moving on...not wanting to pay ridiculous prices for tube right now. There are plenty of other things I can work on. Once the tub is mostly done (save for final body work), plan to move on to wiring and getting the various systems in place. To start wiring, I needed something to wire to, that's where this next bit comes in.

Got an email from Summit this morning, one of my items got pushed back to a ship date of middle of August. Not to happy about that.

This crisis has been averted. The item in question was a motor for this. After getting that email, I started looking for another source. Summit, Jegs, SDPC and even Blueprint had no stock of what I was after. I found one, possibly the last one at any major retailer, at Pace Performance. Called them up and verified it was on the shelf and ready to go.

That was Monday. It shipped out yesterday and arrived to the terminal today. When they called me to set an appointment for delivery, I noticed that the company was literally right next door to our shop at work. Drove over with the forklift at lunch and picked it up.

What I bought.

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What is it? It's an Ls3 with a hotter cam and better heads.

I could have went with the 5.3 I have under the bench. My other one runs great, but I wanted more for this project. I also have a 2000 Camaro SS that I bought specifically for the motor and transmission....that's supposed to be for my 91 Firebird convertible, so that's out. Could have gotten a parts truck and pulled the motor and scrapped the rest. But for what you pay and what you get I wasn't happy with that either. Same with buying just a takeout motor. $1500 for a used 6.0 with 175,000+ on it is the norm here. Add in any machine work or speed parts to any of these options and it adds up quick.


I chose the easy button. Paid the price and got a complete ready to go solution. Dyno tested and 30month/50,000mile warranty.


In the back of the work truck.

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Some sketchy unloading. I wasn't worried about the chain fall or any of that. The crate falling apart is what I was concerned with. Poorly constructed with staples and less than pallet grade wood for most of it. I did put some screws into the base to reinforce some.

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Opened up. These start as a new Ls3 from GM. Blueprint changes the cam and heads. Reassembles, dynos then ships. GM performance sells an Ls3 crate motor. I considered that for a brief moment. GM has to versions, the 430hp and the 495hp. The bigger one has the same cam as the ASA crate motor. For only a few hundred extra I get more power and better heads. Neither GM crate motor was in-stock anywhere either.

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I'm fully aware that my Nv3500 is going to hate life living behind this. I may go right to the Nv4500 and be done with it.

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To control the motor I had two options. Blueprint (and GM, actually pretty sure Bluepring just retunes the computer and sends out the same parts) sells a package that has an ECU, wiring harness, throttle pedal, 02 sensors, etc. What I don't like about this is needing to use Hptuners or something like it to get into it to make changes. I'm familiar with the program and have no issues using it on my 86. But they are known to and have been removing features with each update...not something I want to deal with. What I do like about this option is the reliability of it. It's factory parts and once you get it dialed in it's usually good to go without any issues.

The option I went with was to go aftermarket. Specifically the Holley Terminator X-max. There are tons of these out there running and they seem to be trouble free for the most part. It uses all GM sensors that are already installed on the motor (nothing proprietary) so should I need anything it won't be hard to find. Also gives me room to grow. I got the DBW kit with transmission control as well. Don't need to use that right now, but I'm future proofing myself for if (when?) the Nv3500 pops or if I decide to go to a 4L80E anywhere down the line.


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Also on the table are two chassis wiring harnesses. I'll only need one obviously. One of them is a basic 12 circuit and the other is a 21 that has some things I won't be needing. They were cheap enough that I bought one of each to have on hand. Once I actually map out everything I'll decide with I'll use.
 
Moved the frame over to the other side to give me some room to work.

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Got the passenger side mostly ready for filler work. Not going to spend a bunch of time getting it perfect. The view you'll see from the outside and being covered in either LizardSkin or bedliner will hide a lot. Add in the inner fenders and it gets buried down there.

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The driver's side will get most if not all of those holes filled in. The only one I think I'll need is the one for the windshield washer hoses. If I convert to wet arms and an external pump I won't be needing that.



While the body is off, figured it'd be a good time to swap out the fuel pump for something a little stronger. Originally I put a Vortec truck pump in. While it will provide the 58psi I need, I have my doubts about the volume it can provide.

Picked up a Walbro 255. Bought it straight from Walbro, which is apparently TiAutomotive made. Chose not to get the install kit as I assumed it'd drop right in. Well it doesn't. The connector is different and the sock off my old one doesn't fit.

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Grabbed an Aeromotive regulator and gauge as well. Will probably get mounted on the firewall near the booster somewhere. With the exception of some lines, I have everything for the fuel system now.

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I think I'm going to try setting the running gear in before dropping the body back down. Maybe even do the exhaust as well (need to decide on mufflers yet, have pipe and headers). Will need flywheel and clutch kit.
 
Bought the Walbro install kit. Only needed the wiring connector and pump sock.

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The wiring is a heavier gauge than what the factory sending unit has. Put an ATI bulkhead in to pass the wires through. Was a tight fit, but it's in. Called them up and they said it'd be fine to run upside down. Put some sleeve over the wires to prevent rubbing.

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Did a little work on the driver's side floor/firewall. Hope to finish that up tomorrow. No pics of that just yet.
 
Got most of the driver's side mostly done. I've got 11 or so holes to fill in yet.

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Most likely going to scrape off the undercoating that's there before doing a little filler work. Lay down some primer, seam sealer and new undercoating before dropping the body back down.

This week I've got a bunch of parts coming in that'll let me drop the motor into the frame.
 
Convinced myself that I should just start with the Nv4500 and if I don't like the way it drives, look into other options. Part of what made my decision easier was the Nv3500 needed the springs that center the shifter in the neutral-3/4 gate. Those are no longer available and I wasn't looking forward to splitting the case to get at them. Plus with 500+ HP I don't think it would have lived long anyway.

Took the Nv4500 into work and hit it with the Hotsy. I missed a few spots, but it's good enough for now.

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Did the T-case as well.

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Some stuff to mate the engine and transmission. New flywheel, slave cylinder, GM pilot bearing, Centerforce clutch and some hardware.

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On the back of the motor.

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Married together.

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Hoisted up. Hanging from the back of the cylinder heads was a decent balance point.

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Had to clearance the block to clear the crossmember. Knew this was coming, just wanted to wait till I had it in the frame to see how much I needed.

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Fell right into place. Easiest install I've ever done.

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Bolted in and headers on. I cleaned up the passenger side frame rail where I had to trim for the header before bolting that one in.

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Moved over to the body, filled the rest of the holes in.

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For the throttle pedal I picked up a bracket to mount it. GM Performance pedal that will work with the Holley system.

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There are a couple different styles of pedal brackets out there. The popular one over at 67-72 has you modifying the bracket that comes with the pedal, then bolting that to a separate bracket and then to the firewall. I think this is a cleaner way to go.

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Mounted up. Cut the head off some bolts to make studs. Those got welded in from the other side to fill those holes.

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Up next will be finishing cleaning firewall, seam sealer and some body filler.
 
Only a little bit of progress this weekend.

Cleaned up the old paint and "undercoating." If you can call it that. It was more like roofing tar. Used a scraper to get the bulk of it, then a wire wheel.

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Tried spreading a little filler. I think the can I have is getting a little on the old side. It looked a little off when I opened it and didn't spread very well...was getting some pinholes. Decided to stop and wait till I got a new can. No need to make more work for myself chasing holes.

Can also see where I cut out the bump that was in the center.

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Tossed a driveshaft in to get an idea going for exhaust. As expected, it runs right into the case. Plan is to do pretty much the same as my other truck. Being a shorter wheelbase it's going to be tight. Add in the shocks where they currently are and it'll be a challenge to get things where I want them.

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Little bit more progress this weekend. About 85% the way there I'd say. Not trying to get it perfect right now. Just close enough that I can shoot some primer to seal it. Close enough that filler primer and spot putty will get the rest.

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I've been adding random things to my Summit cart as I think of them. Stuff that I won't need now, but will eventually and will bring things to a halt if I don't have it when I need it.

One of those items is this fitting for the clutch slave cylinder. Converts from push connect to -4 AN. My master cylinder has a -3 fitting in it now, so I'll have to get that switched out.

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Plan is to hopefully spray some primer and LizardSkin next weekend.
 
Was only planning on having Sunday and Monday off this weekend, but we got a fair amount of rain past night and today...so that pushed us out and into a 4 day weekend.

Did one more quick round of filler, then a blow off and tack rag wipe down.

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Laid down some primer.

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I wasn't going to originally, but I did the floor and some of the wheel wells as well. Planned to stop just under the firewall and put the LizardSkin over top the EDP. Figured it wouldn't hurt to have another layer down before that.

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Only place I got any runs was in the wheel wells, and even those you can't really see (they are in front and back). I was putting it on a little heavy to try getting it into the seams before sealer goes on. The rest of it looks like it came out OK. I'll go out in the morning and see how many bugs I've got stuck in it.
 
Other than the couple runs in the wheel wells, the primer looks like it came out great.

Put some seam sealer in some select places. Around the wheel wells/bed, step-up panel/floor, rocker boxes/floor and along the rockers at the A-pillars. Basically anywhere there was a welded seam or a bolt together seam. Wasn't going to go crazy and do every single seam, the undercoating will help fill in some.

Used 3M again. Went with the flexible stuff this time. Ideally the body won't move around anymore, but I know that's not out of the question.

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Doesn't really photograph well. Kind of gooped it in there free hand.

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Got everything masked off. Tried staying on the edge where it bends at the bottom of the firewall.

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Better mask off stuff around the shop as well. I still got bedliner “dots” on my tool boxes and some other stuff years later. Seems like it likes to drift away from you when spraying .
 
I know all about that. When I did the bottom of the cab on my other truck it got all over the side of the lift.

I'll move a few things outside, the rest can stand to get a little overspray without harm.
 
First coat is down. Need to wait a day to spray the next layer, which will be the heat control. Only going to do the center of the floor and lower firewall. Pretty much anywhere that will be exposed to high heat.

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Once that dries I'll drop the body back on the frame. Will prime, seal and coat the bottom of the rocker boxes and inner rockers then, can't get to those areas with it on the lift.
 
Second coat on.

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I was only going to do the center and lower firewall, decided to do the whole thing instead. The heat control doesn't go nearly as far as the sound control. 1 gallon was barely enough for this coat. I still have enough left of the sound control to do the bottoms of the rocker boxes.


Before the body could go back on, I had to do something with the new fuel pump wires. Want to use Metripack or Deutsch connectors for the rest of my wiring. Only had Weatherpack on hand so that's what went in.

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The harness coming off the sending unit runs down to the passenger side and I can get to it with the body on.

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Moved the frame over to get the body back on it.

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It's getting heavy enough that I can't push it by hand easily on the driveway. Used the other truck to drag it over and winched into the other bay. Even with someone else helping, the body isn't bolted down yet so there wouldn't have been a good place to push from.

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Masked off and primed the bottom of the rockers and boxes.

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Should be able to seam seal what I need to in that area tomorrow, then finish the last of the LizardSkin the next day.
 
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