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700r4 blowout thread *ITS DONE!* :)

first gen and 2nd gen are the same on the outside of the case, 1st gen was built without a aux acumulator in it, so you cant put the 1st gen parts in a 2nd gen case (well, some you can, but anything related with the valve body and pump you cant) its best to keep it simple and either one or the other, me personally, i like the 1st gens better, less stuff to work with and ive never had one come back on me, the 2nd gens are a little more finiky (ask me how i know), but both are a good trans and should last you a long time if treated and maint properly.... i built the 700 thats in my yellow truck 1 year ago and havent touched it till yesterday, pan was rediculously clean and no metal or dibris... all depends on how they are built man.. Nate
 
Avery, I would definitely consider trying to getting your axle regeared when you do the trans. Run it if you want, through the strongest 700 you can find in there but dont be surprised when you have blown another one up a year or two later. Trust me, Im speaking form experience here. I ha gone through 3 of them before I finally wised up and put the right gears in my axle, also at the same time I went to a 400 but thats another story. The first two I had built lasted all of about a year and a half. They were just basic stock rebuilds from a very repudable shop in my area, tv cable was adjusted properly and I had the biggest trans cooler b&m offers. The third I had built with all the goodies inside, upgraded clutch pack, vette servos, 13 vane pump, etc... That one lasted me almost 2 years, this was behind my 383 and I wasnt exactly easy on the trans.

Thats my opinion, do what you want but I would seriously think about gears for those axles otherwise you WILL be back to square one shortly. Never will I again run 38"s and 3.73's behind a 700 and have any sort of piece of mind. Now I have a TCI 400 with a full manual valve body, 5.13's on 40"s and Im not worried about my trans at all anymore. Take it for what its worth but I really dont want to have to be saying, "I told you so".
 
BTW, Im not recommending something other than the 700, they are fine transmissions. They just cannot take the stress of large tires and crappy gears.
 
Avery4jc said:
I know you are...and yeah 4.88's are definately in the near future. iono if I agree about play with words though...w/e you want to call it the fact is regardless of what the sidewall says they aren't true 38.5's...will 1.5" make that big of a difference...probably not but its something to keep in mind is all.

Oh btw manny I figured you'd enjoy hearing this but I got my offical letter of acceptance from ACU yesterday...so I'm comin' to Texas!
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Horrah! C'mon on down! Plenty of room here in Texas! Congratulations big guy! That's awesome! If there is anything I can do to help, let me know.

As for tire size, yeah, 1.5" can make a difference. When you start talking 37"+ rubber it's not so much the diameter of the tire that makes the issue, it's the weight! The initial force required to get those tires rolling and to keep them rolling increases. That strain is what has taken it's toll on your 700 because the gearing was too high. Your tranny strained to move the tires. So yeah, 1.5" is still a big deal.

Be wise, and regear if possible. You can find a great deal on a built 700 and possibly regear too. Possibly.

Always standing ready for ya!

Manny
 
well for now I might be able to regear the rear end and do the trans...then down the road when I save up more $$$ I can regear the front.
 
Avery4jc said:
well for now I might be able to regear the rear end and do the trans...then down the road when I save up more $$$ I can regear the front.
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Thats what I would do, Im sure you can budget it properly. I had my 7000 rebuilt for 750 including all the goodies the last time around. Of course that was out of the truck. Your 14ff should be able to be regeared pretty cheap, I have never paid anyone to do my gears but I would imagine you can have a shop setup gears anywhere from 200-300 plus parts. May seem like alot of money up front but it will be alot cheaper than another whole tranny. By the time you blow another one up you will have easily already paid for a gear setup. I know its difficult with the money involved but something to seriously think about, your tranny will appreciate you for it.
 
Hey, I got the same issue? kinda not really. I'm ordering a manual for the 700R4 as we speak and I, yes myself, will be rebuilding mine because it should be fun. Gear it to the max, your trans will love you for it, and since you have overdrive youll be find with 5.38s or 5.13s in overdrive. I just wish yall could see the family truckster I bought for $400 bucks to drive till I finish my trans&3/4 axles.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Hey, I got the same issue? kinda not really. I'm ordering a manual for the 700R4 as we speak and I, yes myself, will be rebuilding mine because it should be fun. Gear it to the max, your trans will love you for it, and since you have overdrive youll be find with 5.38s or 5.13s in overdrive. I just wish yall could see the family truckster I bought for $400 bucks to drive till I finish my trans&3/4 axles.
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Hmmm you think I could go as low as 5.13's? I figured 4.88's b/c even w/ OD 5.13's might be a bit low.
 
4.88s and a TH350/Th400 trans would be great. Being that you have overdrive you will be fine with 5.13s or 5.38s(pretty much run the same rpm as you would with 4.88s in 3rd gear which is 1:1).
 
I just did some calculations on www.4lo.com and according to their calculator with 37" tires, in OD (.7:1), 5.13's, to do 70 I'd be spinning 2,282 rpms....factor in some drag for the real world and I bet I'd be in the 2300-2400 range.
Thats not too bad and I was trying to think if I really need to go that low but then I remembered talking to my old physics teacher who runs the bronco and he said more than anything with my truck I need to go as low as possible b/c its not always about the overall height of the tire...he said my tires are 16" wide and over 100lbs a piece so I need the lower gears just to get them rolling.
Ok...so I think I'll call around and get a quote for doing gears.

They might come a little bit after I get the tranny it but I promise they'll be next on the list. The new tranny can survive some highway driving w/ 4.10's for a couple weeks I'm sure.
 
Please don't go with mad dog, I hate to see another person get screwed over, nevermind myself. If you want proof I can show you how their "gangsta" and "punisher" transmissions really are. Its better to go local, your in cali, there is deff good people out there.
 
hmmm you are the first person to have negative stuff to say about them thats from there...you have used them before?

Raybestoes 9 Clutches (replaces factory 5 clutches in 3-4 drum)
.500 boost valve
10 vane pump rotor
4140 pump rings
teflon pump bushing
29 element sprang
Kevlar bands
billet servo

Thats the basic hard parts that he puts in the tranny I was going to order from him...if I take a list like that to a local shop do you think they could rebuild mine with those parts?
Also I was reading that in the 700r's a billet/corvette servo is a much better upgrade compared to a shift kit....anyone else had similar experiences?
 
haha I just looked under the automatic transmission rebuild section for fresno on www.yellowpages.com and there are 65 shops here in Fresno. Phew...looks like I've got some serious calling to do. :)
 
Avery4jc said:
haha I just looked under the automatic transmission rebuild section for fresno on www.yellowpages.com and there are 65 shops here in Fresno. Phew...looks like I've got some serious calling to do. :)
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Did the same thing about a week ago. Tell them your a student, sometimes the labor rates are about $10-$15 cheaper and hr, make sure to sound like you know what your talking about, so they dont try and bully you around, and most shops can work with you on building a mean transmission. Aamco I know for fact has student labor rates, they can build your trans to your specs, and they still have a warranty on them. Its also cheaper if you pull your trans and take it too them. Thats what I found out in my research.
 
yeah I was thinking AAMCO...sometimes the bigger places are nicer b/c they don't bs around with the small stuff...they just get it done.
 
I would stay away from AAMCO. I've heard nothing but bad about them.

I suggest getting a BowtieOD or some other name brand rebuild.

I'd actually consider getting a GM reman. Comes with convertor, latest updates, and a 3yr/100k miles warranty. Even if you put it in yourself, if it breaks take it to any GM dealer and they will fix or replace.

John
 
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