CK5
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700r4 Lockup help
- Thread starter PaulZ
- Start date
This is similar to the factory one on my '81 G-10 van with a TH350C transmission...gee,they certainly aren't giving these away any more!..I recall selling them back in the 90's for like 15 bucks..
...you may find one on an 80's GM car or truck,many used these,cars like Celebrity and Cavaliers had them...
Standard Motor Torque Converter Lock-Up Switches VX3 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
...you may find one on an 80's GM car or truck,many used these,cars like Celebrity and Cavaliers had them...Standard Motor Torque Converter Lock-Up Switches VX3 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
It looks like GM 212-331 / 14032087, which is still available from Amazon, RockAuto, etc. Or a junkyard. Somebody here may have one they've removed or an extra one. There is some kind of delay valve used sometimes, as you can see below:
Do you have wiring for it already or do you need the connector, too?
Just don't get the bigger "tip in" valve mounted on the other side with the ESC systems:
Do you have wiring for it already or do you need the connector, too?
Just don't get the bigger "tip in" valve mounted on the other side with the ESC systems:
Darn, didn't notice your post until this morning. Yesterday I was at the boneyard getting stuff and it was the only thing on my list I didn't find, primarily because I didn't know what they look like or where they mounted. Know I know, thanks!
Is there some downside to having it lockup in 2nd and 3rd? I'm pretty sure that's how my rebuilt 700R4 is set up, it spends a lot of its life locked up.
Mine will unlock when the pedal gets far enough down. And if I want to force an unlock I can gently tap the brake pedal.
The mid 80s setups are pretty good because in addition to having the vacuum switch to unlock when engine load is high, there is also a valve in the valve body that only provides pressure to the lockup circuit when vehicle speed is high enough and TV pressure is low enough. This pretty much covers all the bases. There are aftermarket adjustable vacuum switches and that's probably the way to go if you don't have the full blown setup. There are also aftermarket vehicle speed sensors that lockup above a certain speed, but I would only run that if I also had a vacuum switch. When you go to pass somebody you want that thing to unlock.
I must not have that valve, mine will lock up as soon as it shifts into second, about 10 mph.
At this point I wired in a second floorboard dimmer switch and an indicator light, and have been manually locking it. A bit of bother but still easier than a clutch! I usually only lock it when I get on the highway.
At this point I wired in a second floorboard dimmer switch and an indicator light, and have been manually locking it. A bit of bother but still easier than a clutch! I usually only lock it when I get on the highway.
Just an update. I have been using a second dimmer switch below the original one to control the lockup for the past few months. Also wired to the brake switch, no vacuum switch. I also change the governor springs to lighter ones, and the combination of all this has me quiet satisfied. I only hit the lockup switch when I get on the highway and again when I get off so it's not bothersome at all, and the governor change (from a diesel one) raised the shift points helping my gutless 305 along. The 1-2 shift is still too early, no TV cable adjustment changes it and from what I've read it takes 20 tries of governor spring/weight changes to get it right so I'm just going to live with that.
Again thanks guys for the advice.
Again thanks guys for the advice.
So switching from a diesel governor to a gasoline governor would be a great idea for a rig with a 305.
Definitely
If you need factory wiring or vacuum lockup parts let me know. When I converted my 85 to FI, I switched lockup control to the ECM and all the factory lockup parts and wiring to the transmission is obsolete. I'd be happy to pull anything off the truck that you need.
