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700r4 tci valve body

2 diff builders, but trans is good atm the builder and I test drove the crap outta it and it's performing as specified.
I pretty sure it's a fuel issue, sorting it out now.
2x time failure with first builder, band material came loose from band, new part failure. Couldn't get 1st builder to stand behind work, got fustrated and parked it. Just a little gun shy atm. Hopefully I'll learn to trust it, I like the new gear ratios vs t350.
Thanks for checking in Greg
BTW 4.10 w/ 33 on 8" wide
 
Wes Harden said:
2 diff builders, but trans is good atm the builder and I test drove the crap outta it and it's performing as specified.
I pretty sure it's a fuel issue, sorting it out now.
2x time failure with first builder, band material came loose from band, new part failure. Couldn't get 1st builder to stand behind work, got fustrated and parked it. Just a little gun shy atm. Hopefully I'll learn to trust it, I like the new gear ratios vs t350.
Thanks for checking in Greg
BTW 4.10 w/ 33 on 8" wide
Click to expand...
I just sorta finished installing these yesterday. Can't tell you how the fuel pressure gauge works. Hooked the battery back up and I grounded the sender terminal on accident:doah:. I have another one in the mail though. I had a mechanical inline one but that doesn't help when driving up hill or down or heavy throttle. I got the sender gauge combo at jegs and it was pretty spendy like $95 I think. Hopefully it does the trick.

Shoot forgot the picIMG_20190201_163557631.jpg IMG_20190201_163444526.jpg
 
So I had some time to dig into my fuel system. I syphoned fuel from the 3/8ths fuel line disconnected from pump. Used an electric pump pulled 25 gallons. Dropped the tank pulled the sending unit. Inside of tank looked clean very little debris. Found a plastic cap inside, but I'm thinking that has been in there since new. Cap is same size as filler neck.
Next I blew 140ish psi through the 3/8 line from rear of truck to front didn't see any foriegn matterial exit tube.
Sock on sender is brown but whole, and still maintaining shape.
I started to clean the tank for Por15 coating.
I also pulled the carb, I am going to go through it, I don't see anything wrong with my tank or delivery system.
FYI 40 gal tank sender part number is correct.
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pulled a ford trans pan for filter/gasket change years ago . found a yellow half ball plug with o-ring and tab on it . couldn't figure it out to save my life . called local ford shop and asked the head tech he said he gets these calls a lot . its the factory assembly line dip stick tube plug . some get removed some get popped in to the pan . discard it and forget about it .

price of a new spectrum premium tank i wouldnt do all that to clean/protect these stock tanks . but hay its your ride . good luck .
 
Tank is pretty clean inside, coating it to protect from the alcohol in our fuel.
 
As a parts counterman,I saw hundreds of those Ford dipstick plugs that customers brought in after dropping the pan to do a filter & fluid change!..they'ed ask me WTF is this thing?--is it a broken part of my transmission?...
It was a mystery to me too,until the WIX rep came in one day and I showed him one a customer left behind,and he told us it was a factory dipstick hole plugger...:screwy:tranny dipstick plug.jpg
 
Yeah I've seen tons of those, they plug the body of trans, the dip stick is installed after the body goes on. Pulled more than a few Ford cabs, reused the plug a few times as well
 
diesel4me said:
As a parts counterman,I saw hundreds of those Ford dipstick plugs that customers brought in after dropping the pan to do a filter & fluid change!..they'ed ask me WTF is this thing?--is it a broken part of my transmission?...
It was a mystery to me too,until the WIX rep came in one day and I showed him one a customer left behind,and he told us it was a factory dipstick hole plugger...:screwy:View attachment 294273
Click to expand...
there is that little :poo: :rotfl::doah::haha:
 
We refer to those plugs as a "Cherry" since it would be the first time the pan was removed since the trans left the factory
 
pulled the carb apart, after the drags got rained out, I didn't find any obvious. The choke pull off diaphragm vacuum hose had a small tear, may have been leaking. Choke was not sticking so.....
gonna run copious amounts of spray carp cleaner through all the passages assemble and adjust after work tomorrow.
So kits for over haul this is an Edlebrock 1902 Qjet I bought new 12 or 13 years ago.

this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1920/overview/

or this https://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/carburetor-kit/gp-sorensen-carburetor-
 
That Summit part is for The Edlebrock quadrajet and not a Rochester.
 
ok so I cleaned carb blew air through every passage, did or checked all adjustments. I raised the float lvl 1/32nd. Put the fuel tank back in with my new fuel sender. All the same hoses, new 1 month ago-ish. added 5 gals to tank, guage didn't move off empty lol. Fired up with @ 30 seconds of cranking on a dry carb. put 15 more gallons, so 20 total gauge read 1/2 :woot:seems accurate. Drove at highway speeds runs great pull a small grade at 70ish in 4th, gave it some more and accelerated to 75 easy. I didn't find anything conclusive, but there must have been a blocked or restricted passage in the carb
 
1 tiny chunk of junk can plug them up and run like crap . my old atv days i use to get deal on them for running bad and people wanted out of it . i would take off carb and clean all out and find all sorts of junk . then clean petcock filter and drain / fill / flush the tank . install new factory plug and wow they ran like new every time .

clean and dirt free fuel is the ticket .
 
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