Ok so I recently swapped out my trashed 700r for an sm465 out of a gasser, everything went smooth until it came to the first start up. Original auto starter would engage but hung the the flywheel so got one for the manual trans and it won’t even engage just Smacks the flywheel is all and shimming does nothing. I’ve read where some guys have had. I trouble and some have ground out part of the bell housing but I’m at a loss here. About to pull the trans back out to figure out what to do but any insight and advice from anyone that has had this issues would be appreciated. Thanks in advance
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
700r4 to sm465 swap with starter issuses
- Thread starter Earlywine
- Start date
I have no clue what year it is. But it is an earlier model non hydraulic housing
You say the 465 is out of a gas truck.
Have you got a 6.2 Diesel? If so did you use a flywheel for a 6.2?
Yes I have a 6.2 and bought a new flywheel for the 6.2
The 6.2 uses a 139 tooth externally balanced flywheel,and a starter drive with a different tooth count than a gas engine starter,gas engines used a 168 tooth flywheel (no balance weights in most cases,on engines before 1987)--,some cars also used 153 tooth flywheels ..
As long as you have the correct flywheel and starter,there should be no problems..6.2 starters are a "no shim" style ,but shims will still fit and can be used if there is no other way,to lower the starter enough to engage the flywheel teeth properly...make sure you use a brace on the front side of the starter too,6.2's are noted for breaking starter bolts or even a hunk off the block casting without one..
As long as you have the correct flywheel and starter,there should be no problems..6.2 starters are a "no shim" style ,but shims will still fit and can be used if there is no other way,to lower the starter enough to engage the flywheel teeth properly...make sure you use a brace on the front side of the starter too,6.2's are noted for breaking starter bolts or even a hunk off the block casting without one..
Huh!..that is weird..I wonder if the block on your 6.2 was ever damaged where the starter mounts or something ?..
Maybe there is one size or design of bellhousing that isn't compatible with a diesel flywheel or starter ?...maybe someone else here knows..
I have only had to shim a few GM starters on cars that had gas engines..
I found the best method to get the clearance right was on an instruction sheet that used to come with the rebuilt starters we sold at the parts store--it said there should be 1/8" of clearance between the shaft the starter gear rides on,and the outer edge of the flywheel teeth,and a 1/8" allen wrench or drill bit can be used as a gauge to determine the distance..
Maybe there is one size or design of bellhousing that isn't compatible with a diesel flywheel or starter ?...maybe someone else here knows..
I have only had to shim a few GM starters on cars that had gas engines..
I found the best method to get the clearance right was on an instruction sheet that used to come with the rebuilt starters we sold at the parts store--it said there should be 1/8" of clearance between the shaft the starter gear rides on,and the outer edge of the flywheel teeth,and a 1/8" allen wrench or drill bit can be used as a gauge to determine the distance..
I plan on pulling the trans back out next week putting the starter on and seeing what it does with out the trans there. I’ve had a couple guys tell me to bring out the bell housing so who knows lol. This quick weekend swap has turned into a nightmare
I hear ya,I've tried doing a few "weekend swaps" and only had one succeed--back then I had more than one vehicle on the road though,so it wasn't like I couldn't get to work if I failed at getting it done by Monday morning..
One truck I had,a 74K2500,I pulled a 454 out of it that had a loose wrist pin on a Saturday morning,took about 2 hrs--then I pulled a 400 SB out of a '77 K10 Suburban I bought for parts,had to remove all 6 busted exhaust manifold studs,re-tap them,and replace the flex plate,that had teeth missing..(why I was able to buy the Burb for $425!)..that took the rest of the day..
Next morning ,Sunday,I got up at 7 am and put the 400 SB in the truck,hooked everything up,and by noon I had it driveable-but if I didn't have the Burb for parts I'd have been S-O-L because I had to use many other things off it too,that would have been tough to find in a junkyard here..
As for your starter dilema,I'm kind of stumped..
A gear reduction starter isn't any different that I know of,I swapped one off a 6.5 diesel to my 6.2 with no problems,just had to use the front brace for the gear reduction starter,its slightly different than the one for the direct drive starter.--so it shouldn't matter which one your using..
I don't see how the bell housing can affect the starter engagement unless the starter drive gear hits it or something...to check that you may be able to put two long bolts in the bell housing and remove the rest ,and pull the bell housing,cross member & transfer case back far enough so it cant contact the starter, and try cranking it over (with the pink wire pulled off the injector pump so it wont fire up) and see if that lets it crank properly..you'll have to support the transmission & t-case with a jack to keep the input shaft lined up..
That might save you a lot of labor & time pulling it completely apart for nothing,if thats not the cause..and if it was,you may be able to correct the problem without having to drop everything..
One truck I had,a 74K2500,I pulled a 454 out of it that had a loose wrist pin on a Saturday morning,took about 2 hrs--then I pulled a 400 SB out of a '77 K10 Suburban I bought for parts,had to remove all 6 busted exhaust manifold studs,re-tap them,and replace the flex plate,that had teeth missing..(why I was able to buy the Burb for $425!)..that took the rest of the day..
Next morning ,Sunday,I got up at 7 am and put the 400 SB in the truck,hooked everything up,and by noon I had it driveable-but if I didn't have the Burb for parts I'd have been S-O-L because I had to use many other things off it too,that would have been tough to find in a junkyard here..
As for your starter dilema,I'm kind of stumped..
A gear reduction starter isn't any different that I know of,I swapped one off a 6.5 diesel to my 6.2 with no problems,just had to use the front brace for the gear reduction starter,its slightly different than the one for the direct drive starter.--so it shouldn't matter which one your using..
I don't see how the bell housing can affect the starter engagement unless the starter drive gear hits it or something...to check that you may be able to put two long bolts in the bell housing and remove the rest ,and pull the bell housing,cross member & transfer case back far enough so it cant contact the starter, and try cranking it over (with the pink wire pulled off the injector pump so it wont fire up) and see if that lets it crank properly..you'll have to support the transmission & t-case with a jack to keep the input shaft lined up..
That might save you a lot of labor & time pulling it completely apart for nothing,if thats not the cause..and if it was,you may be able to correct the problem without having to drop everything..
