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700r4 woes and question

you can put the tranny cooler in front of the radiator and A/C condenser for maximum cooling or in between them, but it won't have as great a cooling effect.
 
I've never monitored my tranny temp, but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to cool it since I'm running big tires with stock gears. I might have to look further into this.
 
And how do these coolers hook up to the transmission? Is it pretty simple and straightforward?
 
Sorta kinda. You could simply cut the lines going to the radiator and use rubber hose and clamps and connect to those lines and omit the radiator part of the trans cooling, some ppl do this for numerous reasons, it will help cool the motor better cuz you dont have hot tranny fluid running thru the radiator along with the hot water. You would just mount the tranny cooler infront of the radiator, most tranny coolers are pretty small. I wouldnt worry about the B&M ones with fans attached unless youve got some serious HP and race it or unless your tranny runs hot all the time. NOw what ppl do with the lines from the radiator that they cut, I have no idea. I guess you could run rubber hose to the IN and OUT (making a U shape) cuz no fluid would be flowing but you wouldnt want what is there to leak out unless you yank the radiator and really drained it.. LoL..I hope you can make sense of what im trying to say. I know what I mean, just hard to explain sometimes. lol
 
udy2554 said:
Is it possible the TV cable isn't set properly? I know it is important on the 700r4, not sure it would create a high temp. situation though.
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Improper adjustment or if not connected to the throttle body, this cable will burn up the tranny in matter of minutes.

This cable controls the shift points and clutch pressure. To little pressure will cause the clutches to slip excessively and generate a lot of heat.
 
Your Temps are far too high. The pan temp should be around 160. My 700 runs 160 +-all day highway driving. Towing up a steep grade will get it up to 200 or so for a short time. Then drop as soon as I go down hill.
The ideal temp for an auto trans is 160 in the pan. Sustained temps of 200 or more in the pan cook the ATF rapidly. It looses its lubricating properties. Then your trans is soon toast.
There is something very worng with that trans to be generating those kind of temps just cruising down the freeway. Even with a stock cooler your temps should not be that high unless you were towing a good load.
A good cooler is always a must have with a 700. But in your case adding one will not fix the problem in the trans that is generating too much heat.
 
Well I already have a B&M cooler on it. That's why I was saying I didn't think it should be getting near that high especially
 
carpeonnel said:
. Last time I brought it to them I told them this was their last chance to get it right or I was gonna take them to court.
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Why would you threaten someone who, at the moment, is still willing to fix your truck. If you don't like the way they have done something, ask for your money back. If they refuse, take then to small claims court, or report them to the BBB. Don't make a threat, just do it. A threat only lessens your chance of getting your stuff fixed, and most who threaten never do anything anyway. They know this.

FYI, I have seen bad crank bearings in an engine cause your same problems. They can allow the crank to walk and put too much pressure on the trans input.
 
well, i repeat, this is my 7th time I'll be taking it back. they keep offering to fix it but nothing happens. Wouldn't you be pissed. I had no problems with truck til rearend blew, then tow truck pulled truck up onto flat bed, in gear, which messed up tranny, which I then had to get rebuilt. I've asked them politely the first 4 or 5 times to get it right. still couldn't get it right. I checked and they've already had reports on them. Told them I would contact BBB or take them to small claims court. this is still the action I get. I didn't threaten them I just told them the consequences
 
carpeonnel said:
well, i repeat, this is my 7th time I'll be taking it back. they keep offering to fix it but nothing happens. Wouldn't you be pissed. I had no problems with truck til rearend blew, then tow truck pulled truck up onto flat bed, in gear, which messed up tranny, which I then had to get rebuilt. I've asked them politely the first 4 or 5 times to get it right. still couldn't get it right. I checked and they've already had reports on them. Told them I would contact BBB or take them to small claims court. this is still the action I get. I didn't threaten them I just told them the consequences
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Too late now but the tow company would have been responsible for the damage if you had reported it to them right away. Now it's on you to have it fixed since you already have had some work done to it. Unfortunately, you need to take it somewhere else that know's what they're doing so you can have it fixed. I however would not do that untuil you've started a small claims case and have a court date. If you go any further with trying to fix it before you take them to court all bets are off.
 
no, I haven't touched my tranny since I started this business with them. Really all I want now is my money back. Cuz there's no way I could ever be comfortable driving it knowing that it was not correctly rebuilt
 
Just as an FYI, I think I'd re-route my cooler. If I read you right, the fluid goes into the aftermarket cooler, then into the radiator? Should probably be the other way around, or simply not into the radiator. If you are getting the fluid under engine temp in the aftermarket cooler, then into the radiator, it's going to pick up heat from the radiator, which you don't want/need.

Sounds like you still have a problem other than that though, and I know others have other opinions of how to run the coolers.

If nothing else, since you have a temp gauge hooked up to it, would be interesting to see the diff in your setup based on how you run the coolers.
 
I run 2 of the big B&M coolers, one of them has a fan and a shroud and by passed the rad. alltogether. Even in the hottest weather (90+) and wailing the crap out of it on the rocks, I never crack 180. Most of the time it runs around 150 to 160. The sending unit for the temp gauge is in the pan.
 
My understanding,as per Bowtie Overdrives, is that the fluid should go through the radiator cooler first, then the auxiliary cooler next. I believe the purpose is to warm the tranny fluid up to operating temp. I've used one of BTO's stage 2 with one of their torque converters (1800 stall), First one failed in 1200 mi. lost 1-2 shift, they mailed me a new one under warranty after I shipped the first one back. 8 weeks with no truck. At 4500 mi., the new one intermittently locks and unlocks tc on a slight increase in pedal. BTO's service guys a great over the phone walking me through tests, but I'm not a mechanic , let alone a tranny mech. I guess I'm going to pull the 465/205 out of my other K5 and put the 700r4 on the shelf till I feel like doing another tranny install in my gravel and mud driveway. Sorry about the hi-jack, but I know how you feel. I hope you deal with stess better than I do. Lots of wrenches in the horse pasture behind my house. BTW,Ive never had good luck with the 700r4 with my driving habits and big tires. Good Luck!
 
On mine, Iran the pressure out line to the radiator, cut the return line about 2 inches from the radiator, clamp hose from "barb" to cooler, then cooler line back to return line to tranny. I'm not a great mechanic, but it was pretty easy for me. I,m polish, I've had 6 concussions, and my mom smoked and drank during pregnancy. (But it was OK in the 60's)
 
Got my K5 back from shop today for the last time. The owner says that there is nothing else he can do to the tranny and my tires and gearing are causing the problem. Thinking about court now, but have never gone to small claims so I wouldn't mind some advice but i'll you tell what's going on now.

Said the torque converter wasn't locking up so they got it working. Went to pick it up and drove off and it wasn't right. When you'd start off it'd bog down like it kicked into 3rd and slowly creep up and shift into 4th. Drove it around for a while and the OD was working along with the torque converter locking out. It was running cool now, never got over about 150, but it felt like it was skipping a gear or something bogging down like that. So took it back right after that told them the problem and they said they knew what was wrong. Called me today and said it was ready. When I got there they have put a switch in the cab by the e-brake handle that controls the torque converter lock out:confused:. Huh? they said my gearing was too high for the size tires that I'm running and there's nothing they can do to fix it and that there's nothing wrong with the tranny. SO, they told me to run it with the torque converter lock out off until I get up to highway speeds then flip the lock out switch like I was putting it in overdrive.:eek1: WTF?! I argued with them that the switch is a REtarded, stupid idea too say the least. Blah, blah, blah, asked for my money back and they said no of course and that there is nothing wrong with what they did. I severely disagree.

Well, I drove it home about 4 miles to my house thru town and it shifts fine like it did before when the torque converter wasn't locking out, but it started getting hot again (got up to almost 200). Flipped the damn switch at a stoplight and started out and guess what, it bogged down again starting out:mad:.

SO, anybody got an idea what's going on with that? I'm running 4.10 gears with 38s. I know I'd rather have 4.56 or 4.88, but don't have the dinero for that right now, but I don't think 4.10 would be causing a tranny to do that, would it? Also, anybody got any previous experience advise on taking them to court?
 
That tranny shop doesn't know what they're doing. I would seek legal advice before doing anything else. You're going to end up at some other shop to get it fixed and then sue this current shop for your troubles.
 
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