71 Blazer Vortec 7/16 -- Custom Bumper. Yes or No?

[brandoneh]

Here is what happened over the weekend!

I'm almost done taking the Blazer apart and wanted to do a Mock up on the motor. See how the DIY4X crossmember fits with the 454 Vortec and also if the headers I have fit.

Here is the first problem we ran into.

The DIY4X cross member is not sitting flush. First thoughts were perhaps my frame is tweaked? My Brother in law was here to help and is a surveyor by trade. He said he could do some geometry calculations and figure it out. I don't really know how accurate it could be but he went over the numbers and measurements and says everything checks out. Kind of BUMMED... what do you think is wrong? It can only go in one way. Perhaps I should pull the mounts and see if they are flush when its not bolted up to the frame. (didn't think of it then). Sure hope the frame isn't tweaked!

Also I guess I can get on the impact gun and make it work?! What's your thoughts on this?

We couldn't get the 454 in with the crossmember installed. I have a GEN 6 Vortec with stock OIL PAN and wasn't looking good. If you can get it to work its going to be a SUPER CLOSE CALL! Got the motor to sit in the mounts and tried to fit the headers!

These are the hooker header super competition BBC 67-87 I believe. I will try a part number when I get home. They have the 3 inch collector. They are not fitting, anyone have an idea if they are close enough to beat on to make them fit? or should I head another direction all together? Wise minds.. chime in!

And after all is done and a day of disappointment, it sure is nice to have that motor sitting where it belongs. Took out the engine around this time last year so it sure is neat.

Like always, appreciate all the help and suggestions!

-Brandon

 

[bp71k5]

Looks like a fun project. You might be able to loosen up the bolts on the frame and then bolt the crossmember parts together. The bolt holes in the frame should have a bit of slop in them to allow for that.

 

[brandoneh]

Brian, that's a really good idea! All your advice has been greatly appreciated! thanks!

 

[scottishdave]

I remember having the same issue when i did mine. I just loosend all the bolts where the crossmember bolts to the frame enough to get every single bolt threaded. I then tightend everything down, which really pulled the frame together nice and tight.

 

[brandoneh]

Got it... Any ideas on that header clearance?

 

[bp71k5]

Any ideas on that header clearance?

It's tough to tell from here, but the picture looks beyond a little hammering. I've seen a few people in this forum fit headers on big blocks on their builds, Greg72 and Bigblock72 come to mind right now.

 

[Greg72]

Got it... Any ideas on that header clearance?

Brandon,

Any easier solution might be to add a 1/4" thick spacer somewhere in the mix...either under the motor mount bushing, or against the block itself.

That might raise things up just enough to clear those headers without major aggravation.

You may still want to do a very gently curved cut along the top edge of the framerail to clear any tubes that are still too close for comfort. The idea is not to create any sharp notches in the frame that might lead to stress risers and cracks later on.

Good Luck. BBCs and 1st Gens are

 

[brandoneh]

Any easier solution might be to add a 1/4" thick spacer somewhere in the mix...either under the motor mount bushing, or against the block itself.

Sweet! I can see how making a spacer for the block itself, but the motor mount bushing? I'm confused. I will have to take a look and see if I can visualize what you suggested!

Thanks Greg.

-Brandon

 

[Greg72]

Nevermind, I am not that familiar with the DIY x-member. Looks like the sleeve for the motormount is welded into the crossmember. I was thinking about more of a stock crossmember with a flat-style motor mount.

The main thing is to add the spacer wherever it fits to give the engine just a tad more height.

 

[brandoneh]

Thanx Greg. Got some good times ahead!

 

[bigblock72]

You may end up building new motor mount brackets that are around 1/2 to 3/4" taller to give the headers enough room to clear the crossmember. The stock big block mounts are about 1/2" taller than a conventional small block mount and the headers are designed to be used with the taller mounts.

You may want to reconsider your output shaft decision on the 700r4. Honestly you're going to want the t-case as far back as you can so the headers will have a little more room on the front drive shaft. The spacer will also help keep the front driveshaft away from the trans as well, plus it sure is nice to keep the front shaft as long as possible to keep angle issues under control.

Before you go and spend any money it would be a good idea to mock everything up and check for any of the above mentioned issues. A little extra time with mock up will probably save money and a whole lot frustration down the road.

I've battled a few of these so feel free to PM me with any questions.

 

[brandoneh]

Yes. Mock up is a must! That's what I attempted the weekend before last. Last weekend pulled the motor up again and bolted the headers on to see where to notch out the Frame and what not. Looks like I have another problem with these headers hitting the leafspring on the drivers side. I will be putting an 8 inch spring instead of the 6 inch and see where that gets me. I will also be using a longer shackle for the front springs so I can squeeze the 73-87 spring in. I ordered the 6 inch shackle from DIY4X this week so I hope they come before the weekend!

Picked up some shelves from sears for 20 bucks each. Price mistake on sears end, saw the post over at slickdeals.net Tomorrow I'm hoping to build these shelves and clear up some more room in the Garage! I'm STOKED!

 

[thealien]

Waiting for my crossmember from them now. I will be using it for a 2005 5.3 but I hope mine fits better? Have you called them for opinions?

 

[brandoneh]

Waiting for my crossmember from them now. I will be using it for a 2005 5.3 but I hope mine fits better? Have you called them for opinions?

Your probably good. Or at least a lot better off than I am. The big Block stuff gets tricky on the first gen!

 

[brandoneh]

New STUFF!

I cleaned up the garage all nice and neat last weekend, knowing that the wheels/tires and tranny are coming! Then I've been thinking lately. I have the 1/2 ton setup under the truck. Bought a 3/4 ton 14 bolt(w/discs) and Dana 44 with lockers front and rear for 500 sitting at a buddy's house. I've had it their for about 3 months now, ready for when I take that step. I went ahead and took the plunge of buying a Dana 60 and another 14 bolt off craigslist for $1200. I had a little cash set aside and knew I'd regret not going to the 1 ton setup later. So here they are. Picked up the Dana 60 and 14 bolt. Dropped off the just purchased 14 bolt and took the 14 bolt with discs (Detroit locker) from my buddies house. Now I have a Dana 44 (Detroit) and 14 Bolt I have to sell, along with my 1/2 ton axles when that comes.

Here they are making my garage totally useless now!

SOME water leaking out of the pinion. What does that mean? REBUILD TIME?!?!

Also tonight, assembled the shelves I picked up from Sears... Put all the old parts and new parts up. Was nice to get more stuff up off the floor!

And LAST but not LEAST!! Tires came in Friday! I was soo stoked. I think its a pretty sick combo! 40x15.5 r20 Mudgrapplers on 20x12 Rockstars! I totally dig the look its going to have with an all black truck!

So thats it! Now I need to sell those 3/4 ton axles and get these 1ton axles geared and ready to slap in!

ALSO!!! I got this truck stripped down pretty good. I need some advice. Should I go the extra mile and take the body off? Take the frame to go get powder coated? Take the body off and POR15 it? Or leave the body on and POR15 it?

Some suggestions would be great! thanks fellas!

-Brandon

 

[NV_K5]

ALSO!!! I got this truck stripped down pretty good. I need some advice. Should I go the extra mile and take the body off? Take the frame to go get powder coated? Take the body off and POR15 it? Or leave the body on and POR15 it?

Some suggestions would be great! thanks fellas!

-Brandon

If you're that far into it, as Greg would say "might as well". But seriously the frame to the powder coat shop is a good idea, one that you'll never regret nor a chance you'll soon have again.

 

[dfl701]

i agree. take the time to do it this time so you dont have to deal with issues down the road. maybe go ahead and por-15 the underneath of the body to help fight rust

 

[Greg72]

If you're going to get into the frame at all.....it's probably a good idea to replace the 40 year old fuel lines. Make sure that the ones you put in are sized appropriately to feed that hungry motor too....

 

[brandoneh]

feed that hungry motor

Good call! Never thought of that! Now its lifting that body up in this little garage of mine! And pulling that Frame out! Its going to be a good time! I can't have anything outside for too long.. I live in a development with hardly a yard and an angry Home Owners Association Ladie couple houses up! She won't let anything sit in the driveway. This is going to get tricky!

 

[scottishdave]

Well i highly suggest NOT to look at my build for ideas on removing a body. I happen to be a HOA's worst nightmare.